All
I’ve got two questions regarding gluing clear acetate to models (specifically windows inside structures):
Is there another recommended brand other than the Testors Clear Parts Cement (nothing against this item, just wondering if there were any other options)?
Also, if I paint the inside of my structures black first, with the clear parts cement bond to the painted surface?
Thanks for your help.
Mike
I use something called Canopy Cement. It’s for gluing clear parts together. It’s an adhesive, so it does not “attack” the surface the way styrene glues do. It dries clear, and any excess can be removed pretty easily with a toothpick.
It’s always a good idea to mask off any surface that’s going to get glue so that it does not get paint on it. The glue will not adhere well, and things will fall apart. I use blue painters’ tape for this.
What I prefer to do on the inside of my structures is glue cardstock pieces, cut to size. I print something like a cinderblock pattern on them. This both provides an interior wall and is very effective at blocking light so your structures won’t glow when you put lights inside. I’ve found that Aileen’s Tacky Glue from a craft store is perfect for this job.
I have scratch built several structures for my layout, many using large storefront style windows. While I used to use Testors Clear Parts Cement, I eventually found that I prefer to use Woodlands Scenics Accent Glue to mount my glazing. One of the things I dislike about the Testors Clear Parts Cement was glue squeezing out and/or migrating onto the visible areas of the glazing. Yes, it dries clear but you can still see the edges of the glue against the clear glazing material. With the WS Accent Glue, I simply brush it on around the inside of the window frames and let it dry completely (it will stay tacky to the touch). Once it is dry, it will not squeeze out or migrate when you press the glazing material into the window frame. It holds the glazing quite nicely. Best of all, if you should “miss” when installing the glazing, you can always peel it back out, rub off any glue that sticks to the glazing material, then try again.
I always paint the interiors of my buildings black to hide light leaks and the WS Accent glue sticks just as well to painted surfaces.
I use both Testors Clear Parts Cement or Microscale Crystal Clear. Testor’s product is thinner and is good for tight joints where you can hold the part in place while it dries. Microscale Crystal Clear is closer to white glue and in most cases no claps are necessary.
S&S
Hi
I build mostly plastic Kits.
I always pre paint as much as possible before assembly including blacking the inside.
It is advisable to clean off any area that glue is to be applied to make sure the glue bonds the parts.
The paint can affect the bond.
It is easy enough to touch up the paint as you go.
I just run Tamiya cement very carefully around the out side of the internal window frame and glazing which I cut to the frame size.
Being very careful not to be heavy handed or contact the visible area of the glass.
A job for a steady hand early in the modelling session.
Canopy glue or a glue for clear plastics would be a better option.
regards John
I now use Future Floor Wax - which is a clear acrylic coating!
It makes the clear plastic window material have a crystal clear shine to it.
Many of the Plastic Kit airplane guys use it to get rid of scratches in the plane’s canopy.
I also use it to seal the ground foam on my trees - It keeps the ground foam from falling off when bumping them.
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Mike, while you may be using the word “acetate” as a generic reference to clear plastic, true acetate is not a good choice for windows, as it yellows over time. I prefer clear styrene, which can be affixed to styrene structures with carefully-applied solvent-type cement. [swg] To achieve a strong bond, though, there should be no paint on the contact areas. Other options with which I’ve had good results are contact cement and Weldbond - the latter dries clear, so slight mishaps aren’t too noticeable.
Wayne
I have used both the Testors and Microscale products, with good results. For the Testors, I use an applicator tip or a toothpick to make sure I get the amount I need and no more. I have also used Future floor polish, but only as a clear coat finish, not as anadhesive. It works surprisingly well, and Iis much cheaper than artist or hobby specific products. You generally should not apply adhesive to painted surfaces. In the case of solvent-type cements, which actually liquify the plastic, the paint actually keeps the solvent from reaching the underlying plastic, so instead of a real bond, all you get is some hardened cement holding your part in place by friction. For adhesive based cements, the glue bonds to the paint, not the part itself. This isn’t as bad as the former case, but its strength depends on how well the paint is cured onto your model. If you do get paint on a surface to be glued, best to scrape or sand it off prior to applying adhesive.