Hello everyone!
May I ask for some advice/suggestion from you?
I’d like to replace the diaphgrams of American Limited Models on my Bachmann Type 22 passenger cars, but cannot find detail pictures of the American Limited Models products except the limited resource on their homepage.
So I cannot decide which one to use on my cars.
Any one for any suggestions please?
This is how the original diaphgrams look like:
Thank you!
Yufei
Any one please
I’ve installed ALM’s diaphragms on my Athearn passenger car sets. You’d have to study your Bachmann models to see if the bulkhead is removable, as there isn’t on the Athearn models. If you can remove it, you’re way ahead of the game. But, if they’re molded to the ends of your, you’re going to have to shave them off. A little patience is required when assembling the ALM diaphragms, as they have some really small parts. If you have a Dollar General nearby, check to see if they have miniature clothespins. They work well in holding the parts together while you apply liquid cement. Let them dry completely before moving onto the next step. One thing I’ve learned with them is that if you slightly enlarge the holes that fit over the locating pins, you’ll spare yourself some grief. Those pins are VERY fragile.
If you want a better look at the parts included in their kits, I found an image of their diaphragms that fit Branchline cars, but there are only a couple of differences. The parts for the mechanisms themselves look pretty much the same as for the Athearn cars. Click on the link below for the image. The parts on the bottom sprue are the springs for the diaphragms, and, as you can see, they’re pretty small. And if you look closely at them, you can see the small holes that fit over the locating pins.
Marlon make great points. They do come molded in gray and black. Painting after assembly can be difficult and can interfere w/ the operation of the small tension springs and interface of the faceplate itself. I airbrush w/ Floequil and use Faller Xpert/ Model Master. It will bond though the paint w/ no problems. If you have the large enough radius to run close coupling make sure that there is enough play while backing though turnouts so they won’t bind. I burnish the faces w/ graphite to help the face contact for this purpose. JB, ? I believe makes adjustable couple boxes to fine tune the coupled spacing.
I don’t know if this will be helpful to you, but did you try the Walthers website? They seem to have more pictures of the assembled diaphragms, although not all are pictured: http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?quick=american%20limited&start=30
And I know it isn’t what you asked for, but they do show a set for Bachmann Spectrum heavyweight cars: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/147-9306
Regards
Hi,guys!
Thanks a lot for your suggestion.
Really very useful indeed! 
Now I know the the main structure of the ALM are same, but just want to choose one looks like closest to the Type 22 ones.
So maybe I’ll choose the 9306 which designed for Bachmann Spectrum ones.
Tganks again!
Yufei
I have had the problem of breaking the spring rods, they seem to ‘natually crack’ exactly in the center of the rod where the sprue divits would meet when being cast. It may be me, but any of my broken ones are always dead center. From now on I have & will cut the heads off, center drill them & put in Phosphor Bronze wire for the rods. It just seems a better solution, & on the FP7 I did that with that way they are still going, albeit a bit thin 0.015", in the future I may use 0.020", or 0.022" next time, just for looks.
Is this just my phenomena, or has anyone else had this sad experience?
Well, Chad, I’ve never had that issue, but one thing I do know is that you need to use sprue cutters to take the spring rods off the sprue. I would suspect that you’re trying to cut the rods off the sprue with a knife, since the point of breakage is precisely where the sprue gate joins the rod - at the mid-point of the rod.
Using a heavier wire rod will hamper the flexibility of the diaphragms, and still not be prototypical in appearance. The real ones are about 3" diameter (.035" in HO) steel rods. Big and heavy. I’ve worked on old heavyweight cars at a rail museum. The real ones are used for alignment, not spring action.
I’ve put AL diaphragms on at least a dozen passenger cars over the years, and I’ve had no issues of the rods breaking. Now, I HAVE had the locator pins break off in the rod base. Not an easy fix. I like the idea of reaming the holes a bit, but too much and you risk not having the rods hold onto the pins… Kinda puts you between the proverbial rock and a hard place… !
To the OP: You will probably have to remove the black portion of those stock diaphragms and shave down the rest of them to provide a base for the AL diaphragms. You will also probably want to re
Thanks for the suggestions, I appreciate them.
I use a UMM razor saw, it has a very thin kerf, like .003" or something, been using that for years, as it is the only thing I can successfully cut small parts with cleanly.
Perhaps I have had a ‘set’ that were weathered (they were wintered one season when I moved) & I have always pondered that.
Thanks again for sharing, glad you have had good results!
The problem with a saw of any thickness is that the teeth, regardless of how thin the kerf is, will apply pressure to the part being removed. With thin parts like these (or worse, for example, the grab irons on a Kadee kit), that’s a sure invitation to breakage. A sprue cutter properly used, puts no pressure or stress at all on the part. It’s also faster and neater than any saw. Try one - you’ll like it. Micro Mark has them.
GMCRail,
I know the term Razor Saw may sound large & clunky, but I really want to share the UMM Razor Saw with you. This is more of a Razor Blade with teeth, I will cut parts that I would not dare to with a new sharp #11 or even a razor blade, let alone a compresing & crushing nipper.
Please look close, I meant what I said about 0.003", this is the most delicate part removal tool I own.
Yes, if you learn to properly support the parts, you can do well with this tool.
It also does not cause any type of odd voids or volcanism, it makes purely clean ‘sawn’ cuts.
I’m hoping that once you all see this unit you/we are not thinking of some lumberjack saw that comes to mind when the the word ‘saw’ is used… It (the word SAW) is really misleading, & I apologize if you thought is was some sort of an X-Acro or Zona type of rig…
Look closely at this pic, the saw is actually much thinner than the thickness of the Razor Blade, also a very fine pitch on the front side (a no-see-um -to naked eye) & still darn fine on the back course side.
Please, Check out the UMM Razor Saw, best $15 you will Ever Spend, really!
Edit PS: this is the only tool I use to clear Laser Cut wood kits, it slips through the laser kerfs & knocks out the holding tabs like nothing else.
My parts may have been weatherd, old, or mishandled, I’ll never know, I was just asking if anyone else had issues like mine…
Thanks,
I think the correct name for the saw you are using is a VENEER saw. These saws are used to create/cut veneer pieces particularly where joining 2 pieces of veneer, as in a seam. But I can certainly see where it would have a place in constructing laser wood kits. Anyone wanting a saw of this type can check out several of the more popular woodworking sites such as Rockler or Woodcraft and I’m sure you could find something similar.
Thank you all for your words, buddies!
But I still cannot decide to choose which one to use…The American LTD diaphragms looks mostly the same to me. Any differences between them except the outlaine shape of the inner/outer doors? Do they assemble in the same way?
By the way, the door frames on the Bachmann Type 22 cars can be removed so the replacement work should be much easier then. 
Thank you very much!