Advice/Opinions wanted selling NOS

When dealing with parts, NOS is NOS. Doesn’t matter who is comes from as long as it’s not used. If you ever go to old car meets, you’ll see NOS labeled all over the place with parts in boxes. You don’t have to be a dealer to possess NOS. It just means old and never used. The fact it came from a dealers hands or not, in no way, effects it’s unused condition. It’s also the same with NIB, but the later implies a warranty that is still effective and the unit is current production.

The difference between a dealer and the eBay guy is, the dealer agrees to buy so much from a mfg. That’s it. That in no way affects it’s condition as an item.

Don, where are you planning to sell this stuff?

eBay? Trade show? Other?

Rich

eBay likely soon. I’m going to do a test report on each unit so there are no surprises for buyer.

Don, it is not clear to me at this point what you plan to do, if anything, regarding the status of the locos. Do you plan to sell them as DC? Or, are you going to sell them as DCC with sound decoders?

Rich

Consensus seems to be DC. So I’ll sell them DC. I just want to make sure they are in excellent working condition for DC. I do care about my reputation as a seller and make sure the buyer gets a good unit.

I think its wise to open the never opened box and inspect the loco for flaws and test it to ensure that everything works.

As a buyer, I don’t want a seller to just pass along what might be a factory flaw that was never discovered.

An opened and inspected item is better than a sealed box item, IMO.

But once you open and inspect the item, unsealing the box limits how you can use some of the Ebay listing templates. Its a trade off that I think can be made better by a written description explaining that its New, but tested and inspected for factory flaws.

You might have more success selling your installation services through a hobby shop.

Simon

I would suggest making a short video rercording of the engine(s) running on your test track and saving the file until the customer has received the loco and has no complaints. Maybe have a file card with some description in the frame to help identify the particular engine being tested.

Good Luck, Ed

Each case is different. I have two Bachmann undecorated doodlebugs that are not only NOS but still shrink wrapped. I think that would give a buyer more confidence than if I told him I took them out of the box and ran them.

Most products in this industry do not come shrink wrapped, and can be opened, inspected and repackaged with no damage to the packaging. How would you know if someone had a Proto 2000 loco out of the box and put it back carefully?

Sheldon

When you tell them you openend it for inspection. [:D]

Also, some producers have those plastic insert covers that are taped shut, so it is tough to get that back together…if you didn’t disclose that you opened it, or ran it for a while, and tried

If you have the equipment shrink wrapping an opened box is pretty simple.

I keep on seeing train items descibed as U/A or U/B. Does anyone know what these are supposed to mean?

These items are mostly either Walthers or Athearn.

-Kevin

Don, I strongly believe that you are making the right decision to sell the locos as is, that is in DC mode.

I agree with you that want to make sure they are in excellent working condition. A seller’s reputation and 100% positive feedback means everything on eBay.

Whenever I put up an MR item up for sale on eBay, I spend time working on the Item Description. I let potential buyers know that I bought the item new, that it is in good working order, no damage, no broken or missing parts, and that it includes the original box, inserts, extra parts and paperwork.

Lastly, pack the box for shipping as if the MR item is the crown jewels. The last thing a seller needs is damage during shipping.

Good luck with your listings.

Rich

I just saw a group of listings that used the code M/A in the description.

These are all confusing. I notice most auctions using these codes are way over-priced.

-Kevin