I’ve owned two AHM locomotives, U25C not being one of them. Are these locomotives any good ? Fairly good looking engine, but is it worth $20.00 on e-bay?
Patrick
Beaufort,SC
DRSC
IMO, barely.
Maybe just for nostalgia purposes. Most AHM engines I had, and I had several, were okay runners. I did not own a U25C nor have I ever actually seen one. AHM was one of those companies where you never quite knew what would be inside an engine you got from them. I would say for 20 dollars it might be a unique model to purchase. And it might actually run alright.
No fly wheels does not run good and dont get burned it is not worth 20 dollars.
IMHO it depends on how badly you want a U25C. Myself if I wanted it $20.00 would be a fair price.
Actually, having recently seen one that had been stripped, the quailty of the shell molding was remarkable for the late 1960s when it was initially released, and holds up pretty well today. The stamped sheet metal handrails, however, don’t.
As others have mentioned, the mechanism is iffy at best. I saw a few that ran well, but most were pretty rough. The wheels had the enormous pizza-cutter-style flanges that plagued Rivaossi equipment of that era. They make quite a racket if you try to run them on code 83 (or smaller) track.
There is a group of guys in one of the YahooGroups working on detailing the shells and transplanting them onto a decent mechanism for their layouts. They’re going to the extreme of having custom trucks kits made for the project, since there’s no commercially-available truck that matches the U25C’s that is up to the operational standards they’re striving to achieve.
Consider the price for the shell only - the mech is worth nothing.
For a mech consider the Spectrum E33C; the trucks are basically correct, only detailing to match your prototype needed.
Well those was smooth runners in the mid 60s and was popular…They ran ok.
There is a whole Yahoo group devoted to upgrading these!
Yeah, the title of the group is “u25cproject”.
Dan
The group has a number of goals. The two biggest being to find a replacement drive for the existing shell. NWSL is apparently interested and is being pursued. Find a manufacturer to make one to todays standards.
Best would be a new U25C instead of just a drive IMHO…[:D]
I have one from the first or second production (large square motor). I got it as a junker off eBay for about $10, and, although the motor has gone bad in its old age, it runs well. It still needs some work, because it runs a little wobbly and surges a lot. If you buy one, make sure you know if it runs well, and it should be a good engine.[:D] If it needs adjustment, they’re easy to work on.[:D]
No that I’m thinking about it, I might as well go work on it.[:D][:D][:D] (maybe in a minute)
I just finished working on the U25.[:D] Except for a tiny, tiny bit of wobbling from the four traction tires, it’s a very smooth runner.[:D] All it needed was for the cruddy Rivarossi grease to be cleaned out for fresh oil, and a good cleaning of the wheels.[:D] So I say, if you find a good one, it’s worth $20.[:D]
I wouldn’t take up my time with it unless you really really!! like to tinker. $20.00 is a little hight to pay for something you have to work on,. I have a GP-18(AHM) really a couple of them and have put a lot of time into them they run ok, but there not worth the time and money I’ve spent. You can re-motor with a mashima and matched set of flywheels but the drives just aren’t that smooth. Good luck, Joey
I’ve got 4 AHM locomotives:
1 BL2 (FEC)
3 C-Liners
I picked them up thru eBay and flee markets. I have re-worked all of them. I moved the one pickup from the front truck to the rear, cleaned the brushes, adjusted the springs, cleaned the wheels and lubricated. They are good runners for what I wanted them for. Also, the are fairly easy to work on for being an older locomotive. Not sure I’d put $20 on it unless I really wanted it and no one else made it. Then I might be inclinded to go for it!!
Hello, Dragon…Looking at the one I have from the 70’s, I can still recall the amazing pulling power of this model. As heavy as a Proto 2000 E-8, Equipped with 4 traction tires, 8-wheel drive and power-pickup, and the round-style motor. {Seaboard Coast Line} Numbered #1709. Yes to the Pizza-cutter flanges comment.
The true value is if you need this model to complete your pike’s theme, era, and roster. The wobble is most likely from the tires; they may not be true as a perfect circle on the grooved wheels. The metal tires are mounted on plastic rims, and then the rims are pressed onto metal axles. There may be an oscillation here if the rims are not perpendicular to the axles. And because they are quite heavy, the oscillation may be enhanced at certain speeds. At the time I was using MRC’s ThrottlePack, w/pulse switch. On this power supply, the creeping is Good!
Recently reawakened, and without a chance to recondition and lube, it still wowwed me by hauling 26 NMRA-standard freight cars up the museum helix, sfrm.org on DCC analog setting and no wheel slip! I will reward it with some TLC. On my chidhood pike, it was the KING! It came fitted with horn-hook couplers.
The Kadees are coming! The Kadees are coming!
I will check into how to reduce those mega-flanges to better fit our code 83 museum display. As stated, this was a boss loco of the day.
I hope this and all replies are of help to you!
I remember that GP18 getting these great reviews from some publication at the time. It never impressed me too much, I think a friend had one.