Hi
Was wondering what are some of the differences between the models of air brushes available. What are considered the best and where would the best be available. Also what are some of the better compressers? Has anybody dealt with Air Brush City?
[:)][:D][8D]Have heard a lot of good opinions regarding the newer dual action Badgers. For Air Compressors, it’s hard to beat the new quiet running units, also from Badger.
[;)][^]I have a Paasche’ VL series airbrush. Great performing unit that came with 3 different sized needles and caps. Price under $70.
Dual action is the way to go![4:-)][tup]
IMHO, comparing Badger and Paasche’ is like comparing Toyota and Honda. Different models are available. All good quality.
Remember that regardless which airbrush you purchase, it will turn into a piece of junk IF YOU DON’T CLEAN IT THOROUGHLY AFTER EACH USE! This includes carefully removing the needle, aircap, and bottle and wiping. If you use water based paints, flush your gun with a 50/50 mix of water and Isopropyl alcohol and wipe the above mentioned parts. For solvent paint, use lacquer thinner.
After doing it 2 to 3 times, proper cleaning can be done in just a few minutes.[;)][8D][:D]
Peace out!
[;)]
Absolutely!! I always run solvent through the air brush between coats. I also found micro brushes at my LHS. Below are two sources.
I have 3 Badgers 2 200 models single action and a 150 model dual action. I had a problem with one and sent to Badger,they fixed it at no charge.You MUST clean them good like he said or they will give you trouble,take it from me I’ve been there.
I only can speak about Badger airbrushes, cause they’re all I’ve ever used. Paasche and Aztek are also fine products. I just haven’t used them.
For beginners I usually recommend the Badger 350. It’s a good, reliable external-mix single-action airbrush. I used one for 15 years and it’s still servicable. Not as good at weathering or unmasked fine-line work, but great for painting models and a snap to keep clean, especially if you’re using acrylics.
Next step up is the Badger 200 - still single-action (the trigger controls air flow only, with a dial to control paint flow), but internal mix. This is what I use now, and it’s much better for weathering work, and lets you lay down a much thinner coat of paint. It’s 30% more expensive than the 350 and a bit more involved to clean, but is an outstanding airbrush for model work.
The Badger 100 and 150 are internal mix as well, but double action - press the trigger for airflow, rock it back and forth to control paint flow. These give the ultimate in control over your spray pattern, and excel at fine work. They use the same method to atomize the paint as the 200 (in fact, there are many common parts), so there’s no real difference from the perspective of spray pattern or cleaning. I used a 100 for a while, but didn’t care for the feel of double action, so I went to a 200. The 100 costs around twice as much as the 350.
There’s one other choice, the Badger 250. It costs half as much as the 350, and is a very basic airbrush. I started out with a 250, and replaced it with a 350 after a little over a year. The 350 is almost as simple to learn to use and maintain, and will give longer service before most modellers outgrow it, so I’d recommend the 350 over the 250.
For air supply, I use a 1/8HP medical-grade compressor that was a gift. If a bit more noise and vibration isn’t a problem, I’d suggest looking into an economy 2HP compressor from the hardware store - you’ll get
Bentnose,
I have a medical air compressor, I had not thought of using it for the air brush. I am at a loss as to how to convert it for use. My compresor was designed for use with breathing treatments. On the back it it says 2.5 amps, it does not list a HP rating. What are your thoughts?
My compressor is similar in arrangement to the Badger Cyclone, though with a smaller motor (I think…I better check that nameplate again when I’m in the workshop):
http://www.badger-airbrush.com/compressor.htm
Any compressor of this type should work. There’s usually a 1/4" threaded outlet - Badger and other airbrush manufacturers sell hoses and adapters to fit this thread.
Eng 22. I would suspect that your compressor will not work for an airbrush. Since it was designed for breathing treatments, it can’t develop much pressure, either through safety devices on the compressor or actual ability of the compressor to generate pressure. Any pressures used in a breathing treatment have to stay just above normal atmospheric pressure, 14lbs per square inch, to insure the medicine gets down into the lungs. Too much above this and the pressure will damage the alveolar sacs of the lungs,(imagine an over inflated balloon), and cause irreparable damage. So, I doubt if that compressor can supply a proper amount of air or at adequate pressures to work.
This is something I posted on another airbru***opic with a few mods:
Don’t bother with a Paache they are JUNK I have owned 2 in my lifetime and will never buy one again.
Badger makes some really nice brushes, if you want my ultimate suggestion of the best airbur***o buy: IWATA. Just be sure to get the one that is made for thicker medium like acrylic paint (Like most loco paints). You can learn more about them here:
http://www.arttalk.com/iwata/index.htm
Iwata brushes can be found at most art supply stores, and some hobby shops.
Always, always, always have spare parts (gaskets, tips, needles etc) handy for your brush. Tips wear out or become permently clogged if you forget to clean it, the needles are vital, if you ding the tip of one it will mess up the spray pattern of the brush (if it’s a fine tip needle that is). With my iwata’s I’ve only had to replace the needles and one tip over 8 years of using them but I religously clean my brushes.
SO the moral is clean your brush before and after you use it. Spraying a cleaner through it between coats is a good idea as well, keeps the paint flowing smoothly
I too have a Paasche VL series [:D]airbrush, and I concur, dual action is the way to go[:D][:D]…also can’t say enough about cleaning, cleaning…cleaning!!! I have a craftsman 1.5hp 2 gallon compressor WITH a regulator, set at 20-35psi and it works better than any hobby compressor, and doesn’t EVER freeze up, like “canned air”.
Good luck airbrushing, and don’t forget to practice A LOT!!!
Medical compressor should be fine. If it doesn’t have an air pressure regulator (and it must) you’ll want that.
For the lazies in the crowd, it takes about 30 seconds to clean an Azteck (or Testor’s) air brush. I use a single action internal mix and I like it. Make sure you buy the acrylic tips if you are using acrylics. Azteck has a unique nozzle which is basically a “really really” high flow tip for house hold paints and the like - this is a great one to use for painting fascia, touch up on automobiles, touch up on house paint, etc.
For those guys who haven’t used an Azteck, they’ll probably have a hard time believing the clean up time.
My [2c]
Buy once learn twice. I bought a Badger double action. For a beginner (like myself) you can depress the triger all the way (using it as a single action) and first learn how to control the amount of paint by pulling the trigger back and forth. Once you get the hang of how much tigger pull to use you can begin to learn how much air to mix with it.
Buy once: Get a double action.
Learn twice: First, learn to control the amount of paint, Second learn how to control the amount of air.
For an air compressor, I use a Craftsman 15 gal shop compressor in my workshop and it doubles for airbrushing. The cost of a compressor, airbrush only or shop size seems to be about the same – $100 - $300.
Here’s an inexpensive compressor that can be used for multiple purposes - http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82653 I am in no way affliated with Micro-Mark.
I recommend buying an in-line filter to remove moisture and oil from air line.
A must-have item for painting is a respirator.
Rick; although a plain old medical grade compressor will work, Eng22 stated his was for use for breathing treatments. The only pressure his should be able to put out is just enough to atomize the drugs in the inhalation cup, and make them available for breathing. Also since it is designed for breathing treatments, it probably is extremely small and not designed for sustained operations over 10-15 minutes at a time. I still say he would do better buying something else.
Dano; To call Passche junk is , IMHO, wrong. Passche airbrushes have been used by most of the best known airbrush artists in the world. Does the name Vargas strike a “belle”? (poor pun) . I have used a single action Passche for almost thirty years as a custom painter and am still using the original tips with it. However in that same amount of time, I have used, worn out, and disposed of 5 badgers,2 Model 200, 2 Model 100XF, and 1 150XF. I have also used in the same amount of time, and have done reviews on, and I state these are my personal opinions in the reviews, Wrens (don’t think made anymore overall good), Thayer and Chandlers (probably best general brush I ever painted with but expensive and I haven’t used the new ones made by badger) , Iwata (very good expensive as well, needle is fragile compared to some others), Badgers (very good, parts wear fast) and Aztecs ( good, like badger parts wear fast). I currently own and use Passche models H (used more than others, excellant ), VL (excellant as well), and an AB (Absolutely best specialized brush I’ve ever used, weathering effects only) . For the money, convienence, ease of use, Passche is best overall hobbiest brush I’ve ever used.
cjcrescent-
I hear ya about Paache airbrushes, though I lost my positive opinion about them a long time ago. If others can use them and be happy with them then great but, I’ll never give my recommendation for one ever again.
Badgers I’ve had good success with over the years from doing paintings or modeling. My Iwata’s are my top choice, yes the fine needles are fragile but then again even some Paache and Badger needles are fragile on the tip though the body of the Paache needles are a lot thicker than an Iwata needle. the point is you ding the tip of ANY of them and you screw up the spray pattern.
I’ve never had the wear problem with the badger I have but, I do know many who have said similar things about them. Actually the Badger stopped getting primetime usage after I bought an Iwata. The spray pattern was stunning compared to the badger.
Yes Iwata’s are expensive, but then again I’m a firm believer of you get what you pay for, in somethings it does not matter but with an airbrush (in my opinion) it does.
Really with any of these brushes what matters most is does the person know how to use it? Are they comfertable with a double action verses a single? Do they understand the difference? And, as said above somwhere, practice makes prefect. Airbrushing is not something you master overnight.
So take no offense, as I have not either. After all the forum is about “airbrush opinions” I think all of these are great input for the person who started this topic.
Once again, Happy airbrushing… [:)]
True story: I go to a friends house every friday nite to help build his layout with others who go for the same purpose. His staging yards were installed which included painting the tracks so a call went out for air brushes. Two Passches were brought along with my inferior Azteck; we were using acrylic paint. The Passches would spray for about three minutes, then plug. It was a big problem. I kept saying, lets use my brush as I have an acrylic tip that should work fine. After about an hour of frustration, they decided to give my brush a try. It sprayed through out the night without getting plugged. The tip has a special needle that clears it when you press down.
When it came time to clean the brushes, I sprayed the cleaning fluid recommended throught the brush for about 30 - 45 seconds and I was done cleaning the brush. The Passche guys spent about 20 minutes cleaning their brush.
The Azteck can’t get no respect because it didn’t come in chrome. Now there is a more expensive chrome one available to impress all your friends. I can’t see spending the extra money for chrome when the plastic works quite fine. Every once in a while some one tries to convince me that the plastic will break. I remind them that football helmuts are made out of plastic and to break one of those suckers requires more impact than a brush will ever go through.
AMEN! though I know nothing about the azteck brushes but I do have an azteck compressor, so far so good! Wouldn’t trade it for nothin’.
what’s wrong with chrome? [:)] it’s all nice and shiney… [:)] Just kidding, I hear where your coming from.
[8D]
Dano;
No offense taken. It’s just that when you have had to paint at the volume I have had in the past, you tend to stay with whats the most durable. I personally would prefer to use a Passche AB, (often called the best artist brush in the world), all the time for all situations. But the brush isn’t designed for that heavy prolonged usage. Also its not designed to spray anything much heavier than ink. I’ve worn out many more brushes than I can think of , and it can get expensive. I would prefer to replace a $35 Passche every year but not a $150 -300 Iwata/Thayer/Binks (Wren) or Badger. Besides when I’m using the same brush & tips that I bought thirty years ago, that says something about the quality and durability. Your points about knowing how to use , comfort factor etc. are right on the money. I know one man who is one of the top if not the top custom painter in the country do things with a cheap ($5.00) basic airbrush, (the one with the spray tip coming out of the top of the paint bottle, ala the cheapest badger/testors), that we couldn’t duplicate with our best brushes on our best days!
Rick;
Notice I said the Azteck was a good brush. I never said it wasn’t. If it does what you want/need it to do, you’re ahead of the game. All I said was I have simply worn them out, just like the badgers. I am a custom painter. I will paint on average 5-10, (if not more), times the number of models in a month than the average modeller will paint in a year.
I have to have an airbru***hat sprays well, is versatile, and durable. For me the best is the Passche series. What works for me may not work for you. I’ve said that in other posts here and on other forums.
PS: If your friends couldn’t clean their Passches after 20 minutes, then they need to relearn how to clean an airbrush.
Amen to thast, I can break down, clean and put back together my Paasche VLSTPRO in under 5 minutes. never had a problem with it, one of the best damn airbrushes I’ve ever owned.
I can’t fathom why people are bashing the Paasche’s, the VL series is one of the best out there, better than badger eqivilant, but not as good as the Iwata equivilant.
Jay
I’ve never had to replace an Iwata, been using the same 2 for over 12 years, sprayed everything through it, clogged one up, took it apart, cleaned it. Works like a champ.
I’m sure everyone else can do the math.
FYI: I didn’t have the friends that took 20 minutes to clean a paache, that was rsn48.
I did go out and buy an Azteck because of this forum though [:)]
Never had one and I have not tried this one yet.
So far my Paashe VL has been performing decently. [8)] I did have to make changes now that I’m spraying mostly with acrylics. One very “annoying” problem that I do encounter occasionally is that if I’m not careful when I handle it, the trigger will fall out, and it is a bear to get it back in! [|(][:P]
The opinions listed here have been great! I’ve been considering purchasing either an IWATA or a badger in the future. I’m like a lot of modelers age 30 and over in that I’ll keep tools and equipment for years as long as I can maintain or rebuild them. Once they become a “contiuous pain”, I disasseble and save any useable parts. (Bascially what railroads do with their locomotives) [;)][:D][:)][8D]