What is a good air pressure for airbrushing? 20-30psi?
Thanks,
Reed
25 psi is about ideal. Sometimes I’ll crank it up to 40, using a slightly damaged airbrush I have, for more “spatter”, but 20-30 is a good range.
20 to 30 pounds is a good starting point. The best pressure will vary depending on what brand of paint you’re using and how much it’s been thinned. You’ll want a thinner mixture and lower pressure for weathering effects than for putting on a base coat.
Have Fun,
Tom Watkins
Depends on the paint. use a Badger 200(30 years old) and 20-25 lbs is fine for Floquil. The newer Polley-S and other acrylics seem to take more air pressure - I use 30-35 lbs for the new stuff.
Jim Bernier
Very good tips here, guys!
If I may add my [2c].
Always before painting a model, have a scrap piece of plastic or even a cheap old railroad car. Test your gun at varous pressures until you get the consistency that you’re looking for. Sometimes a modeler may accidentally “over-thin” paint and wind up with a disaster (been there, done that!).
For many modelers there is a learning curve when switching from solvent based paints to water based acrylics. So again, always good to do a test sample.
High Greens.
That range sounds about right. I use a 15 year old badger and 25 for oil base ie floquil and about 30 sometimes 35 for water based/which is what I use exclusivley now. Make sure that you have a decent place to spray with good ventilation espeacially if you are going to use floquil. TB
Your paint should almost be dry when it hits the surface of the object you are painting. That is how I adjust my pressure. No spattering or uneven coating. The pressure differs between my 50 year old Thayer & Chandler and a new airbrush made by Badger for Testors. The new brush is dual action and works really well especially on acrylics. I have to run a higher pressure on the old gun because of its very small needle size, but this gun will adjust down to a fine line for very good small detail work,
My problem with airbrushes is clogging!!! I have both a PASCHE double action and a newer BADGER airbrush and no matter which one I’m using I seem to spend more time taking it apart to clean than painting.
WHAT am I doing WRONG???
Hello Winterfarm,
I had the same problem when I bought my Paasche VL back in the 80s. These are the tips that helped me.
“It sounds” like your paint may be still too thick. THIS WILL CONTRIBUTE TO CLOGGING!I learned years ago from a pro that the “thinning” recommendations given by some of the paint manufacturers still left the paint too thick! So I often winded up reducing an additional 10% to 20%. ([;)]This is where using test samples comes in handy! [;)] ) I did a very nice job on a BN tank car after I thinned the Floquil 15% more than what was recommended.
This still applies today. Polly Scale needs to be thinned more than recommended. Not trying to be a salesman, but one advantage that Badger ModelFlex offers is that it’s already thinned. Sprays on as is.
After thinning your paint in a jar with a lid, don’t just stir it…SHAKE IT! I discovered that even after stirring, sometimes very tiny clumps of paint would remain in the jar if was a paint I hadn’t used in months. These little clumps would get sucked into my airbrush.
Overall, I still clean my airbrush after each use. After flushing, it takes me about 1 minute to remove the cap and needle, wipe them with alcohol and reassemble. It seems like a hassle but this will assure that your airbrush will last you years!
Hope this helps![:)][:D][8D][;)][8)]
I use acrylics pretty much exclusively, and spray them between 15 and 20 psi with good results. Modelflex can be sprayed right of the the jar at those pressures; I thin Polly S almost 50% and get really nice results. Since I thin my paints, I don’t need to use higher air pressures.
Someone asked for a tip on how to prevent their air brush from clogging: every time you set your brush down, run the needle into the tip to close it. It seems that air can get at the paint inside the bru***hrough the tip when the brush is temporarily not being used. Since doing it, no more clogging.
After I finish each job, I run demineraled water through the brush for about a minute, and then Badger cleaner (or just plain old paint thinner-works really well for acrylics) through for about a minute. I pull the needle out and remove the tip. The only time I have found a need to clean either of these was when I discovered I didn’t have a tight air seal between the brush and my paint jar.
Thank you bunnyboy for the question and i thank every one els for there answers it will help me out. Iam just starting to air brush
Vinnie m
25 is a good starting point. Experiment from there. You’ll find the right pressure for the paints you use and your own style.
Hey Scott,
Great tip about the needle!
Thanks!
Thanks for the tips on clogging. I will be touching up a lot of my equipment this winter so I will be looking forward to trying your suggestions.
Thanks again.
Winterfarm
Taking the’tip’ out and cleaning after each use,is a VERY good idea.
I have a Paasche “H” model that I have used for over 40 years,and
that’s what I do.
As far as air pressure goes,what the others have said is very true.
20-25psi works,depending on how thin the paint is.