I was wondering what airbrushes you guys have and its pros and cons. I never used an airbrush before so what would you recommend? I want one that will last a long time and that can be used for the most things. I have a small air compressor to blow up tires. Could I use this compressor to run the air brush?
-
You need a water trap if you want to use any compressor. It needs to be inline with the outlet hose.
-
You need to decide what type of paint you will be using, this will affect what kind of airbrush you need. A jack of all trades airbrush doesn’t exist.
-
Practice, practice, practice before you attempt to paint your first piece. Typically a crap box car or something is good to play on.
-
Remember the coats of paint needed…Primer, base coat, clear coat (gloss), decals, clear coat (gloss or flat or satin…). Decals require a glossy surface to adhere properly.
-
Photograph, photograph, photograph…when you take a picture and blow it up on the computer, you will see where you will need to improve on. The 3 ft foot rule doesn’t apply to paint.
-
Share, share, share…share your efforts with people online. They can help you if you want to improve and grow in your painting skills.
Painting isnt all that difficult, it just requires time to learn.
David B
I want to use acrylic paint but the paint from the hobby shop is a lot of money for a little paint.
We use a Paasche double action airbrush which has different needle/nozzle sizes for different types of paint. We use a regular air compressor(although rather large) with air dryer and filter–also a good regulator since adjusting the pressure is important. The instructions that come with the brush are great. The double action helps when feathering the paint, etc.
Richard
Justin, I use a couple of Badger 200H’s. I really like them; they are single action airbrushes, and I have one with a medium tip and one with a fine tip, depending on what kind of paint, the size of the object I’m painting, etc.
I found that the inexpensive acrylic paints in the Walmart crafts section work just fine. I mostly use those for weathering, staining etc., so I use mostly earth colors; burnt umber, burnt and raw sienna, etc.
For painting rolling stock/locomotives, I use PollyScale.
I have been using a Paasche VL for the last 15 years, it was relatively cheap and is easy to clean. The VL is a double action internal mix air brush. If you’re going to invest in an air brush you should pay a little extra and get a double action internal mix, it will be worth it. Like someone else said you will need a water trap. You’re air compressor will work as long as it has a regulator on it and it’s output is over 30lbs PSI. If it dosn’t Home Depot, Kmart or any other discount store has complete small air compressors with regulators for around $60. Just remember to spray in a well ventelated area if you don’t have a externally vented spray booth. I made a cheap one useing a Dayton single speed dryer blower( the motor has to be isolated from the exhaust stream) and quarter inch plywood. Hope this helps.
I alos use the Paasche VL (for 30 years). It’s still the same brush although I have replaced the ferrule and tip a few times over those 30 years.
I branched off a line from my compressor in the garage to my paint booth in my basement workshop, I have a regulator and moisture trap at the paint booth.
The fan for the paint booth does not have to be out side the air path if you use a brushless motor such as a bathroom or kitchen fan, (these have to be sparkless by building codes).
JLK
Although I have’nt done any painting in a few years I have had good results using a paasch and a badger which I no longer have, (had a problem I was not able to find) I do not have a layout right now I hope to correct that in the next year or so depending on finances. David B gives good advice. keep in mind the type of paint you want to use and use only the correct thinner and cleaner for that type of paint, and have fun doing it! keep it on the high shiny stuff.
Neil
I use both a single action airbrush and a dual action airbrush I purchased from Harbor Freight Tools several years ago. The single action airbrush is a virtual clone of the Badger 350, it works well and is priced around $10 for a kit (airbrush, air hose, hose adapters, paint jar, tip wrench, etc.). Their all metal dual action airbrush is priced around $20 but you need to buy the air hose separately (a nice braided air hose is available from HFT for around $6). I use a portable air tank with an in-line HFT air regulator ($5) when painting away from my large garage compressor. If your current compressor is not suited to airbrush use, HFT offers several airbrush style or small contractor style compressors (or even a portable air tank) at very reasonable prices. In fact, they offer a dual action airbrush kit and an airbrush style compressor package for around $90.
Having no previous airbrushing experience, I originally purchased the HFT single action airbrush (on sale for $6) just to get my feet wet. However, this airbrush works so well that I have never found a need to upgrade to a brand name unit. After I gained a bit of experience with the single action airbrush, I decided to try the dual action airbrush (also on sale for $14). As the dual action airbrush allows you to adjust the air and paint flow using a single compound action trigger, it requires a bit more practice. Practicing on a piece of poster board, I found I could easily write my name with a line width of less than 1/16" by the end of my first practice session lasting through only one color cup half full of paint.
I find that model, artist and craft quality acrylic paints work well with either airbrush. I use the single action airbrush for general painting and weathering. The dual action airbrush is better suited to detail painting and weathering. I have found that the most important aspect of airbrushing is Keeping The A
(Post edited by moderator)
BTW, I own the HF double action and a Iwata HP-CS gravity feed and they both are fine airbrushes for most of your model train needs.
The tool is only a small percentage of the equation when it comes to getting a good paint job. The rest comes from the hand that operates the tool and the brain that controls the hand. Practice practice practice with paint mixing, airbrush settings, air pressures, etc. Figure out what works for you and don’t worry about what everyone else says.
I’ve been using a harbor freight dual actiaon airbrush for my airbrush weathering.
I have a single action Mr. Hobby prospray MK-3, it’s an external mix brush. My father found it in a desk when he was TDY in Seoul. Let’s just say I can understand why it was left in a desk after I used it a few times. I haven’t touched it since i bought the HFT one.
I started with that simple Testors basic airbrush kit about 6 years ago. I still have (and use) a lot of the original pieces that came with that set. I have since upgraded the brush to an Aztek 470 and, when the Blue Mini compressor that came with the set finally crapped out, an AC200 compressor.
I have used airbrushes from Iwata and Badger, and I must say I prefer the ergonomic design and ease of cleaning of the Azteks. Not everyone will agree with me on this one, though.
I think I would like a Paasche double action airbrush. Should I get a regulator or is the one on the compressor fine? I also have a 5 gallon air tank. Could I fill this with air and use it as my air source?
Yes to both. The regulator on your compressor is fine (although I would add a moisture trap, if you don’t already have one). You can definitely use an air tank with an air brush. That’s how they did it in the clinic that I took.
If I use the air tank I will have to get a moisture trap and a regulator. what would you recommend?
The cheapest ones you can find. These are both very simple mechanical devices that work on basic principles of physics. It’s not worth paying money for high-tech options. I don’t think you need TWO moisture traps, though. Just put one between the tank and the air brush.
Greetings,
No matter what airbrush you end up with the most important thing will be to clean it right away. Don’t let paint dry in the paint cup, bottle, or anything paint may pass through or dry on. Second in importance, if you use a compressor, will be the moisture trap. I have one on my pressure regulator and one in line. I also clean the surface to be painted with dish soap if I can to remove mold release and skin oils.
I have a Badger 200 with fine and medium tips and a Paasche H with fine, medium, and large tips. I have had these for years and for what I do I have found these more than adequate. I primarily use enamels but I have used the Paasche H for Polyscale and Tamiya acrylics.
When I first got my airbrush (the Badger 200) I used a spare tire for an air source and painted on cardboard, corrugated and non-corrugated before I tried it on anything valuable. The primary reason I got my “H” was the previous owner let paint dry in it. It was a bear to clean but for $15 I knew I could not beat the deal even if I had to replace parts.
Happy painting,
Bob
I was asking if I could fill the tank and use that as an air source. Sort of like a refillable propellant can.
I’m confused. I answered that question, and even quoted your post in my reply.
To reiterate:
“Yes to both. The regulator on your compressor is fine (although I would add a moisture trap, if you don’t already have one). You can definitely use an air tank with an air brush. That’s how they did it in the clinic ttat I took.”
I think we are both confused. You are trying to tell me that I don’t need a moisture trap hooked to the compressor while I’m filling it, right?