I should have added “experiment on scrap or otherwise surplus models”. I have a large box full of older Rivarossi passenger cars I use as test victims. Or, I suppose you could use plastic spoons?
As you might have seen in the video there’s a huge disparity in what manufacturers call ‘chrome’. I have maybe 8-10 various cans of aerosol chrome/aluminum paints. These are handy for the times you might need a small detail part or scenery item (chain link fence) and I know what to expect from each one. There’s a particular Rustoleum color that is very close to polished stainless, right out of the can. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it if I wanted a quick chrome finish on a passenger car.
Given that I already have the airbrush AND I really want to have better control I generally use the rattle can for ‘second-tier’ work.
This video will start at 21:45 which shows an interesting Revell product (that I’m not familiar with) and immediately following the Rustoleum product I reference to.
He’s right that there are slight variations between batches of the Rustoleum. (He mistakenly says “Rustoleum” at 22:33 when he should have said Revell).
No, I didn’t intend for you to experiment on your Mainline passenger cars but on something expendable.
My bad, Ed. When I first read your post, I presumed that you meant to paint some of the cars with one brand and then if problems arise change to another brand. But, as I was typing my reply, I realized that by “experiment”, you meant on some scrap.
I actually have a 13th car that I could experiment on. I damaged it trying to remove the roof, so I bought a replacement car.
To complete this project, I need to use four colors - - red, gray, black and gold. Tamiya offers several shades of red and gray, so I need to find a close match to the prototype Monon colors.
Some of the Tamiya color selections also come in both glossy and flat. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to either glossy or flat when airbrushing?
Not really. If I’m using flat paint and I’m going to add decals over it, I spray gloss finish over the model. As noted, decals work better on a glossy surface. Once the decals are in place and sealed with a spray of flat finish, you normally can’t tell whether the original paint was flat or glossy.
Been satisfied with the results airbrushing Tamiya’s XF colors thinning with their lacquer thinner 2-1 paint to thinner. I find the paint forgiving, in that keeping that goldilocks wet edge going is difficult for me, especially now that I’m still in the double-action brush learning curve. Largest project so far with Tamiya XF is the trawler, shot with a Badger single-action bottom feeder.
I rarely use one of my double-action airbrushes for model trains.
My good old reloable Paasche Model H single action external mix bottom feeder does 90% of the work.
I have found the double action airbrushes are excellent when painting camfoflage patterns on 1/100 scale armored fighting vehicles, but not really much of an improvement for most tasks.
Plus… the Paasche is so easy to clean compared to a Badger model 150 dual action.
Wooden hull fishing vessels rarely have very much rust, never in patches. An occasional streak maybe.
Also notice there is no rust on the exposed steel parts. The crews keep these clean and painted with fastidious attention. Their paychecks depend on it.
The only rusty items I recall seeeing on commercial fishing vessels were the anchor and anchor chain.
-Photographs by Kevin Parson
The small rust streaks on VILCO 14 originate from the net doors stowed directly in a saddle on the rail. Vilco was unique in stowing the doors like that, so the rust streaks were a spotting feature for their company boats. It is a subtle detail, but a modeler’s eye catches these things.
The doors on MISS AMY J and QUEST are stowed in the typical J-brace.
All those vessels were over twenty years old when photographed in 1995. They certainly do not take the “battering” most people expect.
richhotrain
When you say that Vallejo does not have very good adhesion and will not hold up well to even moderate handling of the rolling stock, what will happen?
Rich, I am the #1 fan of Vallejo paints for all types of brush painting. I rarely use other brands, but Turbo-Dork and Citadel are also excellent.
That said, Vallejo should have stayed in their lane. The “Model Air” line is not suitable for models that will be handled.
Also, I have never used it… but I have heard all the stories from wargamers. The paint comes off when handled.
That might be why they called the line “Model Air”, and not “Game Air”. The paint is good for display case models only.
richhotrain
Is priming only necessary if the original paint is stripped off?
I prime everything, even if it is factory painted, or has original lettering. I rarely remove the original paint/lettering.
