I was planning to go to Radio Shack at the mall (while they are still open!!!) to get some silver solder to use in making railings for caboose end platforms. I stopped at an auto parts store, thinking that they might also have some, and found only an “antimony/tin” solder mix, but it cost a lot less than Radio Shack, so I bought it. Before I start messing with it, is antimony an equivalent alternative to silver solder for mechanical soldering (of steel wires)? Cedarwoodron
CEDARWOODRON,
I am very curious to hear what others say about your question… After soldering for many years, I must confess , I never heard of it before. On a side note, I do know that, anti means,(that prevents,cures, or neutralizes… And, antimony, ( is a silvery-white, nonmetallic chemical,element used in alloys to harden them) Like I said I’m curious what it is used for… Especially from a auto parts store…
Cheers.
Frank
,
Antimony is only a substitute for lead. Silver solder is not a substitute for lead, but is for special uses.
I have been unable to tell any difference in strength of soldered rail joints or feeder wires when using so-called ‘lead-free’ solder containing antimony.
Wikipedia has more than you ever needed to know about antimony.
CACOLE,
Thanks for the link, After reading it throughout, I believe it can not be used for soldering stainless steel wire.,Do you believe that to be correct?? That was one of the OPs questions…
Cheers,
Frank
OP: Guys, the wire I refer to is the type make by K&S- I am not sure if it is stainless steel, as I have some older pieces of it that are have a bit of rust on them. I bought the antimony solder at an Advance Auto parts store, but it is also available at similar retailers. I did read the wiki article, but it gave me more info than I needed, as I am neither knowledgeable in chemistry or materials science. I understand what it is and why it is a substitute material in a solder- just want to know if anyone has used it in non-electrical hobby soldering… Thanks, cedarwoodron
CEDARWOODRON,
I am familiar with K&S, not sure if they made anything with stainless steel,and I doubt the pieces you have are stainless,if there’s rust on them.
Why don’t you try it on some scrap material and see if it works,seeing I guess is believing…
Cheers,
Frank
The K&S wire is just plain steel (not stainless). I never use steel wire, I use phosphorbronze, it’s stiff and springy, but yet quite bendable and it solders easily. It’s available from Detail Associates and Tichy.
As far as the antimonium solder, why don’t you just try some out? In order to solder steel, you have to really clean it with some 400 or 600 grit sand paper. Before soldering Athearn stantions, clean the loops with a steel wire wheel.
Being an electronics engineer there are only two basic subs for tin/lead solder in common use and satisfying the euro ROHS spec. They are tin-silver and tin-antimony. There is a copper additive possible is a small percentages as well. The antimonial solder is used as it is cheaper than tin-silver or tin-silver-copper.
Basically, all non-lead solders are primarily a single element Tin. The other minor constituients are thrown in for strength and all raise the melting point over that of pure tin. The fact that solder is now almost entirely tin has created nightmare issues in modern electronics via “Tin Whiskers”. These are dendritic neddles of tin that form in these non-lead solders. These “grow out” of the solder joint and short out close circuit trace runs on PC boards, but will never have any impact on simple MR electrical work.
At work, I am forced to use the euro-ROHS stuff, but at home, I use only good old 60/40 tin-lead solder. I have a life time’s supply on hand.
Richard
I vote for phosphor bronze too! Easy to solder.
Dave
As an aside, some stainless steel alloys will show some rust. Marine applications often use 316 Stainless as it doesn’t rust. Most stainless steel grades can be checked with a magnet. Higher grade stainless won’t be magnetic at all. The cheaper alloys can be mildly magnetic so it gets confusing.
You should see/feel a definite difference in the magnetic attraction of stainless vs. mild/carbon steels and can usually tell. Hope that helps…
Jim
I tried the "clean the wire- then solder with flux approach, but the antimony solder was worthless. Rather than play around with the concept, the small cost of buying phosphor bronze wires in various diameters from Tichy seems like a better route to take- no aggravation, easily soldered (based on past experience)and durable. Lesson learned- somethings you can’t go furgal on! Cedarwoodron