I searched and found a long, and interesting thread about the best DCC system to get…but the discussion was a year old. There may be newer discussions, but I would still be grateful for a Dec. 2006 response.
My needs are going to be pretty simple on my new HO layout. It will not be expanding or becoming more sophisticated. So, setting issues of expandibility, wireless, etc. aside…
Is there any beginner’s DCC controller better in features, as good in control knob and button useage, and/or better value for the money than the Digitrax Zephyr?
It is understood that a good starter DCC set must be able to run one analog locomotive as well.
Have you considered the NCE PowerCab - another entry level DCC system, and affordable too. It’s what I’ll be getting when the purse strings are a little fuller. Do a search of these forums and you’ll find a topic on this system reviewed in depth.
I like my ZEohyr, but there are other’s like the NCE that are also good. Look for what is supported in your area and what local clubs use. I got the Zephyr because my club used Digitrax and I could take my throttle back and forth.
I don’t really know if the ability to run one analog unit unit really matters. From what I’ve read, starter sets with this ability do a poor job. If you’re going to go DCC, go all the way.Some Decoders are as little as 10 to 12 dollars each. If you have 200 loco’s then run them around your Christmas tree layout until you can afford the decoders in each one.[;)]
NCE starter set is $139.99 & Digitrax is approx. $159.99 at Tonys Train Exchange. I would pick one of those.
THink about how deep you are dreaming of getting into DCC and use that thought to decide what to get.
I jumped in with both feet and just went with the empire builder by Digitrax and never looked back. The extra money you spend getting a full system is worth it if you are planning a LARGE layout. If you are just thinking 4x8 is all then the Zephyer is a good choice. I have tried MRC and NCE and like the Digitrax better. Still have an MRC Prodigy sitting on the shelf.
I went with the NCE Powercab as it seemed from the info I could find that it was easier to get up and running. I don’t know how much there is to the Digitrax set up but I understand until you have used it for quite a while you will have to keep the manual close by to refer to it over and over. The NCE has many programing prompts so you can do most in plain english, but I still had to refer to the manual on a few things recently because I simply had not done many functions for a while.
Most of the DCC systems out there are fairly good. You could even go to the Bachman for very cheap. Keep looking around and do a comparison based on YOUR needs and desires. The procab is a walk around but in its basic form you cannot unplug it or the trains will stop, but hey its still teathered.
Litchfield Station on the internet has a comparison and so does Tony’s Train Exchange, the were very helpfull. Remember it comes down to your personal preference.
The only problem with the NCE PowerCab starter set is that if you unplug the handheld, the layout comes to a halt until it is plugged in again. Also, IIRC NCE doesn’t run analog locos…I think only Digitrax and Lenz does that.
It really depends on what you like. If a tethered throttle is more important to you, then get the NCE PowerCab. If you prefer the “throttlepack” type stationary throttle, then the Zephyr is for you.
One of the nice things about the Zephyr is it’s “jump” ports that allow up to two normal DC throttles to be turned into DCC throttles. This means that one can control up to three different trains at one time (great if you have “junior engineers”).
I run my 25’ x 50’ HO layout with my Zephyr, and am very pleased with it. I added a UR91 and DT400R’s for radio control, and it’s made an even bigger difference in my layout enjoyment.
It comes in handy for testing locos before you put decoders in them. Make sure the loco is running right, then add the decoder. That way you’ll know if it’s a problem with the loco itself, or if it’s a problem with the decoder or your installation.
In spite of what I’ve said above, running an analog loco on a DCC layout will always be a compromise. That’s because locos are not designed for the “zero-stretching” method that all analog-capable DCC systems use.
It has nothing to do with whether or not you’re using a “starter set” (keep in mind that a top-of-the-line package of few components, ie, Command station, throttle, and panel, is also considered a “starter set”).
Some locos deal with zero-stretching better than others, but that’s because of the loco’s characteristics, not the DCC system in use.
You have thoughtfully included the statement that you intend no expansion or complicaton beyond a rudimentary approach. Good of you to consider this parameter, but I know, as do my friends here, that you will ditch that notion before long. I don’t mean that it is silly, not even naive; it is just that as we pursue an interest, things about it that we didn’t at first realize become more salient, more impacting on our future aspirations and dreams, and therefore they overtake our first modest ideals.
I always encourage caution and method when approaching this hobby, but one of the things that you need to be most careful about it wasting valuable dollars. Wiring and powering a layout is a big deal, believe me, so establishing an inclusive range of capability in those areas right from the get-go gives you room for the likely expansions that you have convinced yourself you won’t need. Sorry, but it won’t cost much more than another $100-160 to get a system that does not become a $130 door stop over the next 18 months.
We all find a way to include a couple more spurs or team tracks. Of course, that means, much to our delight, that we could probably get another SW1 working in that area, and since the majority of new folks to the hobby are highly desirous of the sound capabilities, count on another 0.8 amps in HO for that SW1 in sound. If your starter system only has 2-3 amps to dish out, you have just asked it to increase output by another 27%.
I am not trying to dissuade you, just to help you to consider that your now-firm commitment to keep it all very simple and undemanding limits you from the very start, and that, for a relatively few more dollars, you are not likely to have to face power or capability problems for many years.
I just don’t understand why the Zephyr gets this rap. Have you ever heard or read that an actual Zephyr user needed to keep the manual handy? The old Digitrax throttles (5 years ago) were quite complicated and not at all easy to understand. The Zephyr could not be simpler. Setup is a simple as connecting 2 track wires and plugging in the power supply. Sure I used my manual when I first got the system, but this notion that you have to keep the manual on hand to perform routine DCC functions is utter rubbish.
Selector has given you good advice. I started small with a little shelf switching layout and that’s all I had room for. But in a couple of years I retired, got a new house with a basement, and now I’m so glad I have a full featured 5 amp system.
So give it a lot of thought. Start with something that works well for you now but that can easily be expanded with no waste.
Me either, I used my manual when I first installed a couple decoders but thats the last time I opened it. The Zephyr is very simple to operate and has more features then any starter set plus its expandable. I don’t know where Driline thinks that “I don’t really know if the ability to run one analog unit unit really matters. From what I’ve read, starter sets with this ability do a poor job.” Thats the first I’ve ever heard of that, I run a very old Rivarossi Big Boy with no problems on 00 with my Zephyr.
I have a Zephyr for my 4’ x 10’ BRVRR. I couldn’t be happier with it.
The Zephyr is a starter system, but a very capable one. I have two MRC 1300 power packs attached to the jump ports and a DT400, for a total of 5-throttles. I recently added a LocoBuffer-USB so I could program locos and run the layout with my personal computer.
Don’t let anyone fool you about the power capability of the Zephyr. It might be just 2 1/2 amps, but that is enough to run 8-locos at a time. I know, I have done it and 5 of them have sound! The Zephyr never blinked. Among them were BLI, Athearn BB kits, P2K and Bachmann locomotives, steam and diesel.
Running an analog loco on a DCC layout at address ‘00’ is a useful tool to have in your bag of tricks. Or for the time a friend brings over a non-DCC loco to run on your layout. The Digitrax systems reduce the power to the ‘00’ address to prevent damaging the motor. Thus you usually only get half-speed/power from them. Still enough to get prototypical speeds in most cases.
I can’t speak to the other makes, but I don’t think you can go wrong with a Zephyr. If you do decide to expand, Digitrax offers innumerable products to assist you and your Zephyr will be among them.
Check around, see what other modelers in your area use and then make your decision. I have pictures posted on my website of my Zephyr installation. Once on site, push the Layout button and scroll down the page.
Good luck. You will never regret the switch to DCC, regardless of the system you ultimately decide on.
They all have a different feel to them, their control knobs and button usage are all different.
A good starter DCC system does NOT have to be able to run analog engines.
And just like the Powercab, when you disconnect “ANY” DCC system, the layout stops.
As far as better value goes- that is something for you to decide. Everyone can think up reasons why their system is a better value.
What difference does it make if model A has this feature if you’re never going to use it? Why spend the money on it?
Then again, why buy something that is not upgradable? It’s really up to you to decide for yourself.
Look at all the systems- look for the features that you desire. Put it in your hand to see if you like the feel. Test each system to see how they work compared to others and the decide what YOU like best.
Opinions are like Buttholes- everyones got one.
The powercab Is good for me, the Zephyr is good for others. Both systems are upgradable and neither become obsolete when upgrades are made. Both are good choices.
True, but depending on an individual’s needs, it could easily be the difference between a system that meets those needs and one that doesn’t.
Of course if you “disconnect” any DCC system the layout will stop. But what if your DCC system comes with a single tethered throttle? By virtue of it being tethered, you’d expect to be able to be unplug and re-plug it (as opposed to “disconnecting” the whole DCC system) without shutting down the layout. Even DC, for decades now, has had memory throttles that could be unplugged and re-plugged without affecting operation. What other DCC system that has tethered throttles has this limitation?
The February issue of Model Railroader shows the Zepher setup that they are using on their Black River Junction Layout.
This illustrates the ease of adding additional throttles, including wireless. If you want to start small but have something that can easily be expanded in the future this looks like a good way to go.
I’ve studied the Zepher Manual and it is seems very clear and easy to read and follow.
Okay, if you are going to set expandibility, wireless, etc. aside, does that include access to and adjustment of CVs (or configuration variables)? If not, then buy the Bachmann E-Z Command. If your needs are simple, then simple it is - and it can be picked up for a 1/2 to a 1/3 the price of other DCC systems.
However, if you are looking for value and features, the Zephyr is a very good choice. If running a DC locomotive on your layout is important to you, again, the Zephyr is probably you’re best choice. If unplugging your throttle and having your DCC system shut down bugs you, stick with the Zephyr. [swg]
There are also other good systems on the market that others have already mentioned. Fawlty, you need to sit down and determine what features a DCC system has that will best fit YOUR needs and YOUR wants.
Every system has its pros and cons. The best DCC system has cons that you can live with and the pros that you can’t live without.
What my point is is that some people use the “unplug the Powercab and the system goes dead” as a reason that other systems are better than the Powercab. When you disconnect the Powercab, you are unplugging it from it’s power source. I’m saying that all systems will go dead when unplugged. The Powercab is no different.
If an extra throttle is used with the Powercab, The extra throttle can be unplugged without shutting down the system. Same as with other systems.
For the old DC systems with memory throttles, wasn’t there some sort of base station that stored all the settings? If you unplug the base station, don’t you lose everything? The Powercab is the base station for the DCC system. With the new Smart Booster, you can unplug the Powercab because the Smart Booster becomes the base station so to speak.
You’re confusing “moving a throttle to another panel” with “disconnecting the DCC system from the layout”.
On most, if not all other DCC systems with tethered throttles, those are two distinct and very different actions that are NOT interrelated. And they shouldn’t be. With today’s technology, there’s no need to inconvenience the entire layout to move a single pluggable, tethered throttle from one panel to another.
Unfortunately, the PowerCab combines those two distinct actions, which as you indicated is because they have the throttle do double-duty as the command station. And if this SB3 thread is any indication, adding an SB3 isn’t an ideal solution, either. It seems to introduce it’s own set of issues.
It’s an issue that folks should be aware of so they can make an informed decision, just like the analog ability discussed earlier in this thread. Everyone doesn’t have the same requirements for a DCC system. In some cases it may sway their decision, in others maybe not.
I’m not confusing anything. The Powercab is not the same as other DCC systems with a tethered throttle. The Powercab is the DCC system. It just happens to be in tethered form. There is a difference between the two.