I purchased a couple of GP30 locomotives to try out the higher end equipment. They were on clearance on the internet. The gears and/or motor are loud going around the track. Only my Tycos with bad gears make that much noise. A nice running Tyco GP20 is quieter. Even my old Athearns,ATM, and Model Power are quieter.
These are brand new sealed in the box units.
Also I’m running DC and HO scale.
thanks,
DT
I have 9 Proto 2000 E’s and SD’s and all run really quiet. I also have 3 Proto 1000 F3’s that are smooth and quiet. From my understanding I think that the Proto 1000’s are the same basic running gear as the 2000 Gp’s just different body shells. From what I have read there are some gearing differences between models and some run better than others. All the Proto’s I have ever bought have been excellent and are smoother, quieter and better performing than my Athearns.
RMax
DT,
Have you checked the gears in the running gear to see if they might have pieces of sprue still attached? It’s possible that there is also some accumulated gunk in the gearboxes that might be causing the noise. Another thing that I had read about in Model Railroader was that sometimes, it’s not the motor or the gears, but a part of the shell that is vibrating.
Try running the locomotive with the shell off and see if it’s still noisy. If it is, then you’ve at least eliminated (or reduced) sympathetic vibrations caused by flashings or loose parts on the shell.
You may end up having to take the gearboxes apart, cleaning them thoroughly, reassembling and relube, and try them out again. Also, you might want to check the universal joints to see if they’re aligned properly. And, is the motor firmly mounted in the frame? Bent driveshafts? There are probably other causes, but hopefully, one of the ones I’ve listed might be the cause.
Hope you find the problem.
Joe
DT;
The LL Proto 1K and 2K locomotives respond well to the old standard Athearn Pearl Drops tune up. In addition, they have had some problems with cracked axle gears, which your symptoms match. They will send you more n/c if you call them.
Athearn axles also fit - and Reboxx, JBL, NWSL etc for Athearn.
The drivetrains are typically well aligned, and the motor securely mounted in P1K and P2K.
I have a P1K F3 (Lehigh Valley) and a Norfolk Southern SD60M (P2K), both run great, and are very quiet.
DT,
Any luck with finding the source of the noise?
Joe
Noisy Proto 2000 ? No!
I have more than 30 LL engines, all are quiet and run well!
I might have some time this weekend to try and point the noise been a busy week w/o time to work on rolling stock and locos or even run the trains.
DT,
It sounds like I have the same problem with a new P2K GP30. Even with the shell off, there is a load “clicking” in both directions. Also, it stops abruptly with no coasting. I would expect a little coast with the fly wheels. Nothing looks out of place or alignment. It may be in the gearbox like joekc6nlx suggested, but I don’t know how to disassemble the gearbox. I may end up calling LL and asking their advice. I would be interested to know how you resolve this one!
Good luck,
Ort007
I have a Proto 1000 CNW Erie-Built and an A/B set of Proto 1000 NYC C-Liners which are superb - quiet, smooth, amazing haulage ability (better than my Athearn Dash 9s). They also look great!
I had problems with two early Proto 2000 BL-2 models several years ago making a clicking noise when the engines were running forward, but not in reverse. The problem was eventually traced to the wrong gear ratio on the rear truck, which didn’t quite match the ratio on the front truck. The solution turned out to be replacing the trucks on both locomotives with those made for a different model. By the time I had determined the cause, LifeLike didn’t carry replacement trucks for the BL-2s. I checked other Proto 2000 models and determined that a truck to fit a newer GP-9 was the same Blomburg truck as the one on the BL-2. LifeLike sent me replacement GP-9 trucks free, and putting them on the BL-2s cured the problem.
I meant to reply to this sooner but I got busy with non MRR things. This noise is still there but it did quiet down after running for a bit. All in all I’m glad I got these on clearance because I’m not really please with them. They are now quieter than my old entry level engines but the whining on one engine is still there.
I really don’t think I should have to disassemble and repair top of the line engine.
I added an Athern GP38 to my fleet and it has about the same noise level at half the price.
DT
I have a number of Life-Like Proto 2000 engines and they are very quiet. With the exception of two GP-30’s. They growl loudly. I guess I will have to take them apart and see if I can repair them. I thought I was the only one with noisy gp-30’s!
Jim
DT,
Make sure the locos are properly lubricated. A friend of mine once disassembled a brand new Kato GP35 - out of curiosity - and found out it had almost no (0) grease in the gearboxes. And the instruction sheet said you don’t have to lubricate the model when new because it’d been done in the factory.
Also, try applying a tiny drop of oil to the each end of the motor, where the bearings are. That might eliminate the whine, or some of it. You can do that with a needle or a piece of thin wire - you must make sure the amount of oil is really small so that it doesn’t get to the brushes & commutator.
Hope those noises disappear soon.
Have fun,
Oliver
My friend, CMarchand diagnosed that “clicking” noise on my P2K GP9 a while back.
Gently pry off the covers under the truck where the noise is coming from. One of the axle housings is likely cracked or broken. Gently remove each axle set and attempt to turn the wheels. There should be resistence. When you find one that turns easily, that will be your culprit. Drop in a replacement axle (the average about $1.50 ea.) and your set. Funny thing is that Athearn axle sets also fit and mesh perfectly on P2Ks (though not the Special Edition P2Ks that come with the Kato drives).
My LHS’s owner explained to me that if brand new P2K units sit on the shelf for several years, the plastic on the axle sets can “dry out”, even inside of the box. This doesn’t happen oftern, but it does happen. So the easiest solution is to buy and keep a small batch of axle sets in your tool box.
After this my Geep ran very quietly. My P2K E units are incredibly quiet! They’re my favorite units to run on my wife’s cousin’s layout.
Peace!
I know it can be frustrating, as I was until a friend pointed something out. When a railroad buys a new locomotive or even when consumers buy new cars there still may be minor “glitches” that need attention.
When I’m working on a locomotive, I just put it in my mind that I’m performing maintenance services and repairs just as prototype locomotive repair facilities do. You’ll hear many a story from mechanics that uttered “colorful metaphors” repairing locomotives! (though I try to keep my “expletives” clean when I’m repairing or updating my equipment and I lose a tiny washer or bushing!)[;)]
Cheers and 10-4!
Forgot to mention,
Sometimes you need to check carefully to see if there’s any vibration coming from the plastic body shell itself as this can also contribute to noise. This is especially the case with Athearns.
A solution that I’ve heard more than once is to glue or tape flat weights along the inside of the shell.
It may be the defective motor - rotor may be touching stator thus you get noise.
Try removing the motor and carefully (as if you were trying to open a safe) rotate it by hand. If there is friction inside at some points that’s the likely source of problem.
I’ve had these problems every once in a while I buy new engine, Kato, Spectrum, you name it.
I have two Proto 2000’s E8. They are a little noisy buy I like them. I also have three Proto 1000 RDC’s and they are noisy
I have a Proto 2000 ALCO S1 switcher: Quiet as a mouse. I would check the gears to see if there is enough lubrication/dirty lubrication.
Tom