First big question how do you make a bench level? I have adjusters on the legs so I can go up or down. I have a 48" level and a 24" level. Level says it level but does not look like it?
Next problem and boy hine sight is 20/20. Never start a new section with out it being nailed down to what it hooking to! I decied to move the new 8’ x 5’ section over about 1 and half feet so I could get to the engine shop turn outs. Well that was a mistake as you will see!
All track can and will be moved as needed. I perfer to move as little as I can that is on the green mat. Out side on the green stuff is the DC line and you can see the passing spur turn out. Inside is the DCC line that goes to the engine repair shop, the big thing.
I know relaying track will be a must. I think the simplest thing would be to added say another foot to the pink section, relay the track and make the turn a little tighter and move the A & B line on the green mat back a little.
3% grade risers that are in the PIC, they will be gone as well. Have 2% coming in.
It is my first bench and we all have made mistakes and I have more than one. But what I do have the engines love and no derails for hours on in. That is why I want to chaange as little as I can on the green mat.
Making mistakes again Cuda Ken
If you have any clear/clean surfaces, Ken, roll a marble on them and find out if the surfaces are level. Or, if you don’t mind a bit of water, drip some on the surface and see which way it rolls when it gets enough mass to do it.
Your 4’ level will only tell you if what it rests on is level, and not necessarily if what the tracks are on is level. So, you can measure the bench surface, the scenery surface, and then lay the level on your tracks. I’ll bet there are differences here and there. I’ll bet there are differences right over any bench section joins or abutments.
You have to build a sturdy bench essentially perfectly square to the legs, and then when you level the bench by using adjusters (the floor is always uneven) you should have very nearly level surfaces.
Make sure each level’s bubbles all agree, vertical and horizontal, then compare them with each other. Mark or break bad bubbles, they can really do you wrong.
Join a new table to the old table with screws, not extra legs. Then the joints stay even and only the table itself flexes.
I clamp a block on the old table so it overlaps the joint, (top of roadbed to top of roadbed, all that really counts anyway), then clamp the new table to the block, before screwing two sections together. Then belt sand them nice and smooth, (or use a sanding block) and make sure that track joints don’t line up over roadbed or table joints.