I have been debating weather to buy a BLI blueline SD40-2, or a Athearn Genesis MP15AC. CAn anyone give me insight on these models?
I do not own any of the BLI Blueline SD40-2s but I do have two of the Athearn Genesis MP15AC locos in the CP rail scheme ( golden rodent ). I bought mine without the sound option as I am not much of a fan of the MRC sound decoders. I plan to add Loksound decoders in a little while to both of mine.
So far though I am very pleased with how both my CP MP15ACs run. They run very quiet and smooth and both mine have only the very faintest gear noise which with a little run time should go away. In order to hear it you have to have your ear within a few inches of the loco. I have installed NCE D13SRJ decoder in both. It was a bit of a tight fit as I just plugged my decoders into the Athearn board but they fit.
My only real complaint about them is the headlights are not all that bright. But that is caused by the 15mah bulbs Athearn uses. One thing I was surprised to find was the working rotary beacon on the cab roof. On DC current it comes on in forward but does not blink ( just steady on ). With a DCC decoder installed it was a simple matter of a little programming and I had it working like it should. Another thing I liked was how easy it is to get the shell off. All that is needed is to remove the coupler boxes and the shell slides right off. You have to be careful though as there is a number of wires running from the chassis to the lights in the shell.
Athearn also did a good job with the details on the MP15ACs. They have plenty of detail and look really good. In short a very nicely detailed and smooth running model of a modern day switcher. I plan to build a small awitching layout to use mine on.
Wayne Reid
Ontario, Canada
YES, YES… YES!
It is the best switcher out there in my opinion.
I too have the CP version, and after running the engine, and looking at all of the beautiful details, I plan on buying another roadnumber of the CP, as well as 2 of the SOO’s and 2 of the MILW’s.
Athearn never bothered making the beacon blink on any of their models (GP40X, GP50, ect). It’s kinda stuipd in my opinion, but it’s not that bad after you get used to it.
Phil
I have two in CP colours as well and the detail is just incredible. So far I’m happy with them and I might buy another later on in Soo colours.
I have a blueline SD40-2. It’s a fine locomotive. It’s NS #1643.
One tip. If your DCC and you want to install a decoder. Lock out your sound decoder BEFORE you install the motor decoder. Use Direct mode on the programming track. Set CV 16 to a value of 2 and CV 15 to 0 after your done setting up the sound to your liking. Then install your motor decoder, set CV 16 to a value of 1 and CV15 to 0.
Some CV overlap. By locking them you can adjust each one individually, otherwise your programming both decoders at once, not good. When you want to adjust the sound decoder later on just set CV 15 to 2, when your done don’t forget to set it back to 0. To program your motor set CV 15 ti 1, again, don’t forget to set it back to 0 when your done.
Motor = 1
Sound= 2
Unlocked = 0
So if CV 15 and 16 match values that decoder is unlocked.
The blueline SD40-2 is about as smooth a runner as you will ever find. You may have to adjust the starting voltage. But I can run it so slow like it creeps along, it’s hardly moving but smooth, not jerky. With or without a string of cars.
Jules
Wayne, how did you program the decoder to get the beacon to work? The NCE decoder you used, was it a 8 pin or did you get the 9 pin and plug it in. I used a Digitrax DN163PS decoder that plugged into the 8 pin socket and unplugged the 9 pin board that was there. I’ve tried to get it to work but I just can’t seem to do it.
Yes, I have ran one of my buddies with Sound, and it was AMAZING. Many people didnt like the MRC sound Athearn chose, but the MP15ACs are DEFINATELY an exception. Im around MPs often, and they sound amazing. The detail is obvious, and they run very well. From what I hear, the BLI SD40-2s dont even have the right sound for an SD40-2. And my friend also owns two MILW ones, and I wasnt very impressed in sound, or detail.
Alec
I used an NCE D13SRJ decoder ( HO scale ) plugged into the 9 pin plug. The decoder was a bit of a tight fit when it come to getting the shell back on but with a little carefull placement of all the wires I was able to get the shells back on both mine. Once the decoder was installed the rotary beacon could be turned on with F2. I ended up remapping mine to F4. From there I programmed CV123 to 12 for a rotary beacon. Seeing as you are using a Digitrax decoder you may have to program a different CV using a different value.
I also programmed my headlights so F0 turns both the front and rear headlights on at the same time. My front headlight stays bright going forward with the rear headlight dim and in reverse the front headlight is dim with the rear headlight bright.
Wayne Reid
I’ll have to play around with it I guess and see if I can get it to work. I have a 9 pin decoder sitting around so I might swap decoders if I can’t get the 8 pin one to work. I know what you mean about those wires, even with the N scale decoder I still fought with the shell trying to get it back on.
I may be wrong but if I remember right the 8 pin plug does not have the green or purple wire soldered to it. Just the yellow and white wire ( plus the blue wire ) for the front and rear headlights. The rotary beacon works of either the green or purple wire so the only way to get it to work will be with the 9 pin plug.
Wayne Reid
Your right, all the 8 pin decoders I’ve installed don’t have those two wires soldered to the plug. Why even put them on then, lol. This morning I installed a DH123D decoder, its a 9 pin and still can’t get the beacon to work. Worse yet I can’t get the body back on, lol. Had to walk away from it for a bit so I’ll try again later. I might just put the 8 pin decoder back in and say the heck with it.[censored]
The Digitrax DH123D decoder only has two function outputs. One for the front headlight and one for the rear headlight. The green and purple wires do nothing. You need the DH163D decoder as it has six function outputs. Of course you only need to use three of them on the CP MP15AC. The rest are handy if you want to add ditch lights later.
Another option would be to use a Train Control Systems A6X decoder. It has six function outputs and also has voltage regulation for 1.5 volt bulbs. By using it you would be able to get rid of the factory light board which would make getting the shell back on much easier. For the most part the A6X decoder would be a direct swap out for the factory light board. Info on the TCS A6X can be found here. www.tcsdcc.com/decoder/A6X.htm
Wayne Reid
Well that explains why I couldn’t get it to work, lol. I bought that DH123 decoder for 10 bucks about a year ago, I’ll have to pick up a DH163D later on today if the hobby shop is open. I’ve used those A6X decoders in my Ontario Northland Athearn Genesis SD75I’s and really liked them. For some reason they are nearly impossible to find up here but I would say they are the best decoder available for Genesis loco’s because of the built in resistors.
Hey Guy’s thanks so much, my local hobby shop has the mp15ac for $155.95, I’m considering buying one in csx yn2, yea the BLI SD40-2 aren’t the right sound. Not enough detail ethier.