I noticed that Athearn released and then discontinued this engine in a relatively short period of time. Was there any problem with this locomotive? Or, perhaps, it was just a limited run. I would like to buy one and install a decoder to run on my DCC layout. Has anyone had any experience with this particular engine, pro or con?
I have one with the DCC Quick-Plug. I put a Lenz JST-MP Gold-Silent-Back EMF decoder in it and it runs great. Very quiet and smooth and one of my best running locos.
I have one in B&M livery, it’s a great running loco. I installed a Digitrax DH123 decoder into the quick plug socket and have had no major issues other than the forward and reverse directions being well, reversed [:)] I modified this by changing the forward directing with CV29. Otherwise, I love this loco.
Why do you think Athearn has ‘discontinued’ this model? They have a whole selection of them to be released in November. If you missed the previous release, that is just batch processing - I am sure they will re-run the first runs some time in the future. Limited batch runs are how just about the norm in the model railroad world is now days.
Jim
The Athearn RTR RS-3 is definitely not “discontinued”. However, it is done as a limited run like most every other loco or rolling stock out there. New runs will be made as they think demand indicates. If what you want has already been done, hunt eBay, train shows and hobby shops for it. If what you want has not been done yet, be patient as I’m sure Athearn will try to exhaust all possible paint schemes for this model (sort of like what they are doing with the Genesis F-units). Or, paint an undec. model yourself (or have it done).
About the only thing wrong with the model is that on models with steam generator stacks, they are all missing the “mushroom” vent on the short hood. Also, the third grab down from the top (the one that is supposed to wrap around the corner) was done incorrectly like the Atlas model (it doesn’t wrap around). There’s also some coupler pocket detail missing, and the pilots are rather void of detail. Other than the missing stack, these are minor problems. Oh, and the cab windows on the fireman’s side may or may not be too narrow depending on the prototype.
As for running, the model is a bit too lightweight for a lot of pulling power. I’m able to move 20 cars on the flat with mine, but around half that for a serious grade. By comparison, my Kato RS-2 will move 40 cars on the flat, and my Atlas RS-3 is right around 30 cars. Still, 20 cars is fine for most layouts, and two engines together should move most common home layout freight trains.
The drive is a little noisy from the factory, due mainly to the motor brushes. Some use 2-26 electrical lubricant to improve performance (let it dry overnight before using…flammable stuff). Or you can try the “Jim Six Fix”. Posted by expert modeler Jim Six (many articles in the mags) on the Atlas Forum, he cut off 1/3rd the length of each motor brush and reinstalled th
Rather than cut 1/3 of the motor brush off, why not cut a few coils off the brush spring. Then as the motor brushes wear down, you can always stretch the spring out a little, to make up for the worn brushes.
What road were you looking for? I was just surfing some online retailers, and there are quite a few available.
Having tried both methods, I can tell you cutting the brush yields better quieter results. Also the newer springs have less pressure than the old JET motor springs. Cutting the springs can produce uneven brush pressure and bounce. Polish the commutator to a mirror finish by applying power (7 to 9 volts) to the motor and gently press a piece of 400 ~ 600 grit sandpaper against the commutator as it rotates. Apply one drop of CRC 2-26 to the commutator after polishing.
Sorry folks this reply is a duplicate and the system won’t let me delete it.
Athearn is a batch processor. When a model run starts, it’s for a certain number of units. When that number is reached, that’s it. If the run is successful, they may repeat it later.
Why not save yourself a lot of hassle and just spray a little CRC 2-26 on the commutator. Quiets the motor down a lot!
Thanks everyone for your responses and your advice.
The reason I used the term "discontinued’ is that it was the term used on the Athearn web site for certain RS3 roadnames. The roadnames were issued in January 2007 but are now marked “discontinued” which I now realize means that the entire run of the particular roadname was distributed and now out of stock at Athearn. With your help, I have now found available RS3s on the Internet and will purchase two and install the Digitrax decoders (thanks for that advice as well).
While superfine sandpaper works well for cleaning a motor’s comm, it is an abrasive and can leave some scratching which may attract dirt. When I used to race RC cars I used a comm thingie (I forget the name - comm stick?) to clean the comm, it is basically a soft rubber like stick - I also used a hard pencil eraser a few times.
I agree that cutting the brushes is a better solution than cutting the spring. Designed properly the spring is choosen to provide adequate force on the brushing against the comm during the life of the brush. If you cut the spring, there might not be adequate force as the brush wears away which will affect the electrical contact between the brush and comm.
If you do decide to cut the brush, I would suggest, again based on my RC car experience, you break in the brush a bit while the motor is out of the engine. A broken in brush has a curved face (shaped by the comm) which allows for maximum area for electrical contact, a cut brush has a minimal area. Run the motor out of the engine so the brush face can be shaped and use a motor cleaner (from the RC area of the hobby shop - one can will last a lifetime) to clean the brush dust out as the brush is broken in.