Well, the design has been improved because they no longer have that plastic finger, which has been replaced with a coil spring. http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=MCH4350
However, I still throw them away and use Kadees.
Somehow this topic has come up twice. So I will point out again that the McJunk has been improved with a coil spring http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=MCH4350
I still throw them away.
Are the couplers that come on Athearn RTR freight cars decent? What brand are they and are KDs an easy conversion on the cars or do they not fit without a lot of work.
Threads merged.
Thats good they got rid of the awful plastic finger - which was, BTW, the coupler that Athearn referenced in it’s glowing 2006 memorandum talking about quality and value.
Unfortunately I have a large number of Athearn (ex-MDC) Thrall coal gons that came with the finger springs - which will need replacing with due haste due to the false uncouplings. While worth every penny, the KD whisker couplers are about $34 per bulk pack so it’s going to hit me up for probably about $150 at least, to mitigate the old version of McHeny’s. They will of course get priority over the plastic couplers that have to metal spring.
The newer McHenry’s with the coil springs: While not as good as Kadee couplers, I will leave them on until they fail, then I replace them. So far, I have only had issues with a couple times, and have several that, once at the right height, they work well. Biggest issues? Height. Only two times have I had one fail otherwise.
I also more-or-less use a replace on failure policy. The exceptions are cases where the longer shank plastic couplers are used, as on piggyback flats, as they deform under load and come uncoupled.
Failure for a McHenry coupler isn’t necessarily breakage. Due to the amount of switching on my layout, cars get coupled and uncoupled a lot. Eventually, the McHenry knucles start to wedge open or closed. Once that happens they’re done for.
I’ll throw in a suggestion to refrain from just throwing the McHenry types away. If they have metal knuckle springs, save the springs for use on Kadees as they are interchangeable.
When I started out in the hobby (in the mid 80s), my standard coupler was the Kadee #5. I’ve since changed to the Kadee #148; it’s the whisker coupler direct replacement for the #5. No bronze centering spring to mess with. The next time you shop, make sure you get the Kadee coupler height gauge and their special coupler pliers. And while you’re at it, buy some of Kadee’s red fiber washers. It’s been my experience with Athearn cars that the couplers tend to be low. The washer will raise the car height, bringing the coupler dead on.
Marlon,
Good reminder. Ever since the 80’s I’ve had packages of the gray and red Kadee fiber washers and a Kadee height gauge on-hand to help adjust coupler height when building kits. Part of the rolling stock tune up process. I like the whisker couplers as they are often easier to install vs. the bronze spring type - which often need extra work to get them to fit into some coupler pockets, especially Walthers redbox kits cars.
Pretty much what I’m following - mainly due to time constraints and economic reasons.
Excellent suggestion to save those springs, it’s always a big help to have a steady supply of those on hand as they occasionally pop out of couplers and need replaced.
Just as an aside, I believe that the patent Kadee had expired, so it allowed other manufacturers to duplicate Kadee’s design. It seems that Kadee still produces a superior product.
I think thats when “The Attack of the Clones” ware began! [C):-)] Kadee obviously is still the leader by a long shot but if there is any semi close contender, the Walthers metal Protomax sure looks awefully close.
As it happens I am in the process of replacing couplers on cars that will make the transision from the old Staten Island West yo the new SIW coming in 2016 (Mainly Tankers, well cars and of course locomotives. Some MOW and a caboose or two) to mostly Kadee 148’s. It’s been mostly a drop in project except for losing the little screws but I have a supply of replacements from Micro-Mark when needed, as well as the washers and height gauges.
Makes a big difference in performance.
Now what to do with the plastic couplers?
Trains are very heavy, and the forces that are going through the couplers are massive. As a result, there are sometimes broken knuckles on grades. I would suggest placing some of the knuckles from the plastic couplers in between the rails of some of your grades. In addition you could use parts of them for scrap loads or just random junk.
Scrap loads; trash plastic couplers and plastic wheels, painted a rust color, make excellent gondola scrap loads. [;)]
Thanks for the ideas I already have gondolas full of plastic wheels painted rust. I think I will add this to the pile.
One of the popular loads at my former club was a 50-foot scrap gon loaded to the brim with “rusted” X2f couplers.