I purchased a couple Athearn 30K gallon tank cars that were NITB at a recent train show. They came with what I think were EZMate couplers. I think the trip pins on those couplers have a lower steel content, and don’t work real well with Kadee automatic uncoupler magnets. When backing the cars over the magnets, the couplers tended to swing to the wrong side of the magnet, making uncoupling a real PITA. I attribute this to the weak plastic centering whiskers. I replaced them with Kadee #119s (whisker shelf couplers). Other than having to insert a Kadee red washer under the truck, they were a drop-in replacement, and uncouple like champs. This is just one reason, ALL of my rolling stock usually get Kadees before they ever touch the layout.
The couplers that have come on my Athearn RTR cars have all been Kadee “clones.” They seem to work well, but are not Kadee’s. I always swap all couplers over to Kadee’s no matter what comes on the Cars / Locomotives just to keep everything consistent on my layout. Be sure to use a coupler height guage to see if the couplers is at the height. Sometimes with Athearn RTR, the couplers may not be at the correct height to begin with.
I think the couplers are Accumates. The ones I have are the old type with the plastic whisker to hold the knuckle closed. This whisker will lose its spring if the coupler is forced or held open for a period of time. As long as the cars are kept on a layout or stored in their original boxes, they work fine.
Do the KDs you convert on Athearn RTR cars just fit without any problem except possible height issues.
The couplers on most RTR are from Bachman.
Replace them with KD’s when ever possible.
Gordon
Most of the time on the cars they’re Bachmann EZ Mates, on the engines they’re usually McHenrys.
Yes, you can simply remove the factory installed Kadee clone couplers and install the Kadee. I have yet to find a car that i could not do this with. Then it only becomes a question of coupler height, as mentioned before.
I have mostly 40 foot boxcars in Athearn RTR. Do KD #5 s drop in. How about the coupler spring. Is it a problem or do the coupler boxes on the RTR accept them ok
Sorry to have so many questions, I am new to HO. Thanks
I have found out that my Athearn RTR freight cars’ brown plastic couplers lasts only about a year or so before I need to switch them with KD #5. I can tell its time to change to KD when a freight car uncouples itself while running around the layout. I have had some problem trying to get the KD # 5 level with correct height, but after a few tries with washers I seem to get the right height.
A Kadee #5 should drop right in on your Athearn 40-foot boxcars. If it’s too low, add a red Kadee washer or two to raise the carbody a bit. If all else fails, I sometimes swap in a #27 coupler. This will fit the Athearn or Kadee #5-style box with no problems.
Some of the Kadee clones also use the bronze centering spring. Even though it may look identical to the Kadee, they don’t always center as well. At first, I was tempted and gave it a shot, very poor operation. I believe these are used on P2K or Atlas.
Bob K.
I purchased a couple Athearn 30K gallon tank cars that were NITB at a recent train show. They came with what I think were EZMate couplers. I think the trip pins on those couplers have a lower steel content, and don’t work real well with Kadee automatic uncoupler magnets. When backing the cars over the magnets, the couplers tended to swing to the wrong side of the magnet, making uncoupling a real PITA. I attribute this to the weak plastic centering whiskers. I replaced them with Kadee #119s (whisker shelf couplers). Other than having to insert a Kadee red washer under the truck, they were a drop-in replacement, and uncouple like champs. This is just one reason, ALL of my rolling stock usually get Kadees before they ever touch the layout.
post topic duplicated in thread merger
There seems to be some confusion by the answers I’ve read in this topic. Athearn RTR trains come with McHenry brand plastic KD clones - as stated in the descriptions of the rolling stock on their website.
Those couplers are not decent, they are of poor quality - mainly because the spring that keeps the coupler closed is plastic and becomes fatigued and will not reliably hold the coupler closed - thus you get random uncouplings - a constant nuisance at best and possible run aways and damaged trains at worst.
You can buy Athearn RTR trains and they may operate as described above, even though they are new, in the box and never have been used. That is because fatigue sets in even while the models are stored in the box, whether at home or on a shelf waiting to be sold. Athearn really needs to stop using poor quality couplers in their trains just to save a dollar or two. IMO it is short changing the hobbyist to sell a product like that.
Changing out for Kadee’s should be simply a matter of swapping out and checking coupler height against Kadee’s height gauge and if necessary adding a washer if they come out low - adding it between the bolster and the trucks.
Marlon, may not be so much the “steel” content as the trip pin itself may not be positioned at the angled off to the side for magnet throw for uncoupling. Had this happen a few times as the pin can be a lousey press fit into the plastic and not in the proper position. Best to just toss and replace it anyway w/ the kadee.
Probably because Horizon Hobby (Athearn) bought Mchenry Coupler back in 2006 so don’t expect Athearn to stop using them anytime soon [tdn]
My rolling stock is 98% Kadee and 2% Walthers Proto-Max, which, so far, have performed OK for me.
The Kadee trip pin is VERY soft alloy, very high in iron content. I found out the hard way that other manufacturers use different grades of steel for their trip pins.
I normally cut them off and have a dedicated pair of Xuron nippers for the job. I recently tried to clip the trip pins on a Rapido passenger car and took a big chunk out of the cutting edge of the Xuron cutters! Their trip pins must be made out of HRC 55-66 Rockwell steel!
One time I had a cut of cars parked on a grade with the slack run-in for several days. All the plastic fingers on the knuckle springs became deformed and the couplers were useless. (I had not gotten around to installing the Kadees yet)
ALL plastic couplers belong in the trash…
Ed
If it’s Athearn, they’re McHenry’s. Athearn (Horizon) owns, or has controlling interest in, McHenry:
from a June 2006 news release,
Horizon Hobby, exclusive distributor of Athearn and Roundhouse model railroad products, has added McHenry Couplers to its product line. McHenry’s operations will be managed from Carson, Calif., where Horizon’s other model railroad lines are based.
Robert Staat, McHenry’s president, is excited about the company’s future with Horizon. “I look forward to doing what I enjoy most; designing new products,” Staat said. “By combining the strengths of both of our companies, the real winners will be our many loyal customers.”
Athearn president Tim Geddes added, “McHenry Couplers joins Athearn and Roundhouse as another example of good quality and high-value products that Horizon is committed to bringing to the market. McHenry Couplers add value to many of Athearn’s locomotives and rolling stock, and we look forward to continuing the relationships Bob has built with other manufacturers.”
“good quality and high-value” are their opinion…
Kadee for me, Ed
Maybe, but I will still make my feelings known as a customer. Obviously some manufacturers have listened, such as Intermountain, ExactRail, Tangent and even Bowser. Walthesr Protomax appear to be close metal clones of Kadee’s and should be ok. Time for Athearn and Atlas, the two holdouts, to get onboard!
Any coupler with the plastic finger holding the knuckle closes is trash - thats for sure. And I agree with you, and just picked up another bulk pack of KD’s over the weekend, but have a long way to got to get my fleet fully converted. As usual, it comes down to money to have all the right stuff!
Kadee No. 5 (separate centering spring) and 148 (whisker centering spring) will drop right in to the RTR coupling box. Make sure the metal clip locks in place, or better yet, get the A-line or MicroMark drilling jig to drill out the center of the coupler mounting pin and put a screw in to hold the cover in place. Athearn cars’ couplers are usually low on at least one end. A No 6 flat washer between the truck and the car frame usually brings the low end up to the right height.
Leave one truck very loose and one a little loose for better tracking. Most RTR cars have the trucks screwed down tight and the trucks can’t rock and roll to follow track irregularities.
An unfounded opinion based on my experiences. The excitement Robert Staat must have been mostly financial as the McHenry couplers are inherently a bad design with the plastic finger spring. Good quality and high-value has been proven to NOT be the case with a little time and experience. It’s time for Athearn and Horizon take note it was a bad move and realize the McHenry couplers are a lability and detract from otherwise good products.