I’m 15, and my Athearn SD40 just pooped out on me, it used to run fantasticly, now it doesn’t move, and just lights up. Any suggestions on what to do or what is wrong?
Thanks,
Mike
I’m 15, and my Athearn SD40 just pooped out on me, it used to run fantasticly, now it doesn’t move, and just lights up. Any suggestions on what to do or what is wrong?
Thanks,
Mike
Is it Blue Box or RTR? Once in a while on my Blue Boxes that still have the top contact strip for the trucks and motor carbon will build up where the strip contacts the trucks. Also check to see that the motor is seated firmly. Push down on the top of the motor while putting power to the track. If it’s not seated well the bottom of the motor isn’t contacting the frame. I have an Athearn SW7 that does that sometimes. If it’s a RTR model (I’m not familiar with all their RTR offerings) check the solder joints on the trucks and motor carefully. I have one of their AC4400’s that had solder joints that were so bad that they came off when I touched the wires.
Thanks, I wanted to see if I can get it working (Its one of my favorites in my fleet) before I resort to selling it on eBay…So I will check that and report back here
Mike
Can you take the shell off and shoot us over a picture?
David B
Yes sir, sorry for not mentioning it, but it is an RTR locomotive. I’ll get pictures within the next 5 minutes.
Mike
Well, heres the 3 pictures I took, I saw no wires out of place or not connected.
Mike
Things I notice.
Your commutator is very dirty.
Make sure your track pickup wires are seated properly in the light board clips (IE. They tend to wiggle free. It is a very good idea to actually solder them on).
Make sure your wheels are clean and in gauge.
Make sure the lightboard is seated on the motor fully.
David B
I would put a drop CRC 2-26 on that commutator then turn the motor by hand a few times. A piece of paper towel will can be used to clean the grunge off afterwards. See if it’ll run after that. If you don’t have the 2-26 70% isopropyl alcohol on a Q-Tip will also work, just not as well. If it still doesn’t run connect a multi-meter to the motor leads to see if there’s power going to motor. If you don’t have a meter you can also use a 12 volt bulb. If no power is going to it then I would suspect a problem with the board or the connections thereon.
For me, it seems like too much work, but its part of the hobby, you can’t just keep going out and buying new locomotives each time one stops working or needs to be cleaned. So I’m still pondering on what to do, I might just sell it, because on a 4’x8’ I think an SD70MAC and a GP-40 is enough power for DC operations.
mike
A loco that won’t run will not bring much on the open market. (I’d give ya $5 for it) [:D]
Give a try to fixing it. A multi-meter, or just a 12v light bulb like Jeffrey mentioned, can tell you if the motor is getting power. Check the wires at the board, make sure the little plastic clips are fully on the board, like David said.
Like you said, you can’t just run out and buy a new one every time something quits. You are better off in the long run learning HOW to fix 'em.
Rotor
Is this a DCC equipped engine? If it is, just try reprogramming the address.
I’m asking because I can’t imagine all those boards are for lights!
Ya it can be easy to ‘lose’ the ID number, start with the easy stuff. Put it on your programming track and see what ID no. comes up under both 2 digit and 4 digit. Or just re-install the ID no. and try it again. Generally engines don’t run great one day and not all the next. Plus an engine will do what you describe - light up but not run - if you have it on the track aren’t currently using it’s ID no.
Hey guys, it’s pretty obvious from the photos that the loco has a light board with a dummy plug. This loco is DC.
You are absolutely right Jeffrey.
Yes, I had never said that this was a DCC equiped locomotive, but I have been looking into that, seems like something to try when I get the layout finished [;)]
Mike
I see a place for the eight pin plug for a decoder but do not see a set of jumpers in it. I thought that DCC ready meant that the plug was there but it had a jumper dummy plug in place of a decoder so it would run on DC.
The dummy plug is right there in a nine pine socket. See it? Just pull that out and plug in the decoder.
I see it now. It has both an eight pin and a nine pin socket.