has anybody regeared an athearn hustler switcher with the ernst regearing kit meant for the hustler? if so how reliable is the kit and how hard is it to fit the ernst kit into the hustler?
Well, both the Hustler and the re-gearing kit are sitting on my workbench. They’ve been there for a while, though. The kit is designed for the “newer” style of Hustler, but mine is from the early 1960’s and it’s a different design. When I discovered that it wasn’t going to be a simple mounting job, but rather a complicated semi-scratchbuilding effort, I sidelined the project and went on to something else. Of course, I’ve always got 3 or 4 things in that half-started, half-done state, so it’s nothing new. One of these days…
I did a conversion 20 years ago.It wasn’t successful because I couldn’t get the gears to mesh properly and it still had poor electrical pickup. Joe
I also did one about 20 years ago. It was a finicky job, I added weight in every nook and cranny and also added Tomar track wipers for better eloecctrical contact. It really made a diference. I still haul it out every now and then. The gearing dropped the speed from about 200 smph to about 90 at the top end, but it does run much smoother (especially at low speed) as it screams down the track!
I remember I had to glue some shims to the top of the inside of the hod to keep postitive pressure on the gears - as I said it was a bit finicky getting it to run smooth, but if you persevere and avoid throwing it at the wall, you can end up with a cute little 4 wheeler! (I even squeezed in a diode lighting circuit).I want to convert it to DCC, but the decoder wont fit (even an N scale one), so I may turn another one I have into a dummy to haul the decoder.[:)]
Here’s a pic of the underside (with the wipers - 2 sets) and don’t forget to change the wheels to NWSL NS.
BTW if you’ve got an older one with the needle point axle ends, just drill out the cone shaped journals to accept the NWSL blunt end half-axles.
I have one of the “newer” hustlers that had belonged to my grandfather. It still runs, and I’ve considered regearing it a few times. If I go forward with it, what are the possibilities of also adding a dcc (non sound obviously) decoder to this tiny loco?
My old-style Hustler was Hi-F drive with rubber bands. There was plenty of room under the shell for a decoder. In fact, I did put one in there for a short time. It was a DH123, as I recall. The engine didn’t run well enough to keep on the layout, so I moved the decoder elsewhere. When I pulled the engine apart originally, I found that my teenage self had added a chunk of lead to it about 40 years ago. So, I assume that it really does need more weight than it originally had.
I have 2 of the newer style Hustlers. I added an Ernst regearing set to both and I never could get the gears to mesh right in one of them. It wouldn’t run smoothly and made terrible grinding noises. After fooling with it for a long time trying to align everything it finally ate one of the gear sets.
The other one runs fine and is a great improvement over the original drive. Low speed is super and it’s a much better puller without adding any weight so far.
I’m planning to get another Ernst set for the one that was defective so I can run them as a cow and calf set. I’d like to install DCC and hopefully sound if I can get it in them.
I remember as a kid growing up the local YMCA used to have some train shows and they would do Hustler races. Those were great!! They’d lay 2 parallel straight tracks for a long way, place a Hustler on each track and crank the throttle wide open and then plug in the cord to the wall. The Hustlers would take off like dragsters and usually got going so fast they’d fly off the track. They were cheap and fun for the kids to crash!
Roger
Caboose 63,
Why make your life so difficult, or do you like a frustrating challenge? If you were me, you’d just buy yourself a Roundhouse “Critter.” It runs well, is DCC ready, and is cuter than the “Hustler.”
Mark
Check EBAY for a pennline midget switcher. There heavy slow and powerful.
I have 3 and they are more powerful than a lot of larger engines.
CHUCK
That’s just your opinion. Personally, I like the Hustler and so do many others. Maybe that’s why it’s been selling for over 50+ years. I especially like them as a cow & calf set. The Ernst gears really make it pull!
Anyone use NWSL’s PDT drive in their Hustlers" They’re pricey at $84 but I imagine they run even better.
Roger
Did that to a veruy old Hustler maybe 15 years ago. A major problem was getting a solid mount for the pdt inside the Athearn frame. Had to hog out the frame where the axle ends fit and make up bearings to support the unit. You will have to add weight, which I did using stick-on lead weights inside the plastic hood. The actual biggest problem was getting proper throttle response from a controller. An MRC Tech 2 2400 works well for me.
Almost forgot: make sure you get the right wheelbase pdt for the Hustler frame. Not all pdt’s have the same wheelbase. The one I got was specifically targeted for the Hustler. I don’t remember the exact price, but it was way less than $84.
Is the regear kit still being made? Where can I get it at? Kevin
‘Hustler’ problems were many:
50 year old design -
Cheap - Originally sold for $5.95. Cost to remotor or regear more than engines’ worth. Rigid wheelbase - jumps track**. Short electrical pickup**- stalls on ‘dead’ spots/ frogs.
Better, later designed, small engines, are available with short wheelbase , including GE 44 tonner. In short: Some cheep items are for the birds.
- or because it’s the cheapest thing out there?
CHEEP cheep!
Nah, it’s the challenge of making it work.
My Hustler is over 40 years old. When I put it on my new layout, it still ran like a bat out of that place in the name of the Meatloaf album. It would just be fun to run it with a decoder and a repainted body as an old, third-hand industrial switcher owned by some flea-bitten outfit.
Yes, the Hustler was (is?) pretty cheap to buy but it’s a fun engine to modify. The pickup problems can be pretty much solved by operating them as a cow & calf set, changing the wheelsets to NWSL and adding wipers and weight. The Ernst gearsets take care of the Mach 2 speed problems and really help with pulling.
I’m still wanting to mod one with a PDT. I think the 13’ wheelbase is the right one. Finding one is difficult from what I’ve seen. I understand NWSL quit making them so it’s ebay or lucking out in some old hobby shop.
Overall, they’re an interesting engine to detail and operate. Whether or not you think I’m cheap isn’t important as I just like the looks of them compared to a 44tonner or 70tonner.
The Ernst gearsets show up on ebay fairly often. Just keep searching for them.
Roger
Was there ever a prototype for the Hustler? I trust there is. But a Hustler calf? I can’t believe it. I hope I’m wrong.
Mark
There wasn’t a prototype for the Hustler, just like many of the other small four wheel diesels that are/were available. Keep in mind the Hustlers date back to the 1950-60’s.
Athearn didn’t make a calf unit, but I did. I painted them both in a scheme that I didn’t really like so I stripped them off and they are still waiting for their turn in the paint shop.
One thing that not many modelers are probably aware of is Athearn at one time offered snow plows for the Hustler! I’ve been on their e-mail list for some time now, and before they were absorbed by the Borg (oops - Horizon!) they offered a package of three plows for $10.00, which I sent for. Seems they found a crate of them in their warehouse. They just fit over one (or both) end, coupler and all. No really need for it, but I thought they would be neat!
There never was a Hustler calf produced by Athearn. I made a couple from stock engines with the cabs removed. I replaced one with parts from an Athearn SW calf and the the other with a scratchbuilt end. Cal Scale, Details West and Detail Associates parts changes and additions made up the rest of the shell changes. They’re neat little units and work great as a yard switcher after adding the Ernst gears and other items I mentioned in another post.
Roger