Finally got around to actually laying track on my layout that’s been “in progress” for 2 years plus. I have a box of Atlas Code HO 100 NS flextrack from almost 20 years ago that I had on another layout. I’ve had to pitch some of it but most actually still flexes okay. I know I’ll have to clean the tops but right now I’m very concerned about the gauge of the track.
I used my NMRA standards gauge and not a single piece is “tight”. Some are well wide of the minimum width but not quite to the outer limit of the gauge. Most are definitely too wide in that the gauge “falls between” the rails.
I thought maybe it was the used track that would be the problem pieces but I have several pieces that I can easily tell were never used and they are just as bad as the others.
I’ve read several posts saying that flextrack and Atlas in particular is a very good choice for those of us who lack the patience or the skill to handlay track. I seriously thought about handlaying but I’ve got LOTS of track to lay.
I learned from my first layout years ago and I’m committed to doing things right the first time on this layout. I am very concerned about the derailment problems I’m setting myself up for. Am I being too picky with my standards gauge? Admittedly, there’s not much room for error when you use the NMRA gauge to check the track gauge. Still, am I getting paranoid?
One other question. I’ve read any number of times in articles that you need to adjust the track gauge if it’s too narrow or too wide. But I’ve never seen a good explanation of exactly how one does this? I’ve had some success in using track spikes to narrow the gauge but I’d go through hundreds of spikes trying to get all of my “too wide” track back into gauge using track spikes.
I use all Atlas Code 100 flex track on the Flint Hills Northern. Almost all of it is in gauge, and the few spots that seem to be a hair too wide have never given me problems, and I use the “semi-scale” wheel treads (0.88" wide instead of the usual 0.110"). I’ve never had a problem attributable to wide-gauge track.
Yes, I think you’re being a bit paranoid, though “Just because you’re paranoid doesn’t mean they’re not out to get you.” [:D]
Oh, BTW, all of my track was used stuff I bought at a swap meet. It had oviously been nailed down and just ripped up - the ties where the nail holes would have been were missing the part between the rails… It still worked well, so I don’t think that should worry you…
Unless the NMRA gauge is a sloppy fit when held exactly perpendicular to the rails, I wouldn’t worry about it. Use it on curves, and your longer wheelbase steam (and six-axle diesels) will thank you.
Even on some of my trackage that gauged ‘too wide’ (gauge dropped, but not loose,) the outer edge of an RP25 HO wheel still had some tread overhanging the outside of the railhead when the opposite (properly gauged) flange was pushed all the way over. This was on handlaid track with narrow-headed (Cactus Brass) rail - Atlas rail may differ.
I agree with Chuck. Make sure the sliding rails are on the inside of the curves. If your sections are a bit wide in gauge, placing the sliding rails on the inside will force them to butt tightly up against the inner spike heads, thus tightening up your gauge a whole 2-4 thousandths of an inch…maybe…every little bit helps, right? However, Chuck also suggests using them on curves because your longer trucks, tenders, and steamers if you use them, will benefit from the slightly wider spacing to help the drivers to get around curves in the 18-24" radius range.
I am leery about using track that has ties broken at the track-nail holes at their centres because you may have rails with tight gauge along those parts. A gauge check will tell you whether it is an actual problem, though. The gauge does a good job of keeping you out of trouble.
Flex track is an interesting concept. Bending it seems to change the gauge a bit, but possibly not as much as the prototype would do. I imagine Atlas and other makes arrive at some compromise gauge given that they have no idea whether the track will be laid straight or curved, or if curved, what radius will be chosen. If you read the 2007 Model Railroad Planning article on the Brooklyn terminal railroad, the layout calls for 12 1/2 inch radius curves, and that is true to prototype. That would be pushing Atlas flex track pretty close to its practical limits.
Equipment built to NMRA standards is pretty forgiving because there is a fair amount of tolerance (or slop, depending on your viewpoint) permitted in wheel width and degree of wheel wobble etc. It is unlikely that any Atlas track would cause great problems EXCEPT – increasingly there are commercial wheels available that are built to finer standards, although still not Proto87 by a long shot. Having said that, even most of the brass steam engines of the 1960s had wheels narrower than NMRA standards of the time, and ran, and run, on Atlas flex with no problems.
I doubt you are paranoid. A lot of the problem could simply be the age of your track. Production and quality standards were probably not as stringent 20+ years ago as they are now with more prototypical wheel profiles and such.
Does the track actually say Atlas on the bottom? A gauge is good, but sometimes the old eyeball is better. Look At the track end on and see if the rails are leaning in or out or if there seems to be any warped or “melted” ties. Lot of stuff can happen to track that’s been in a box for 20 years. Was it stored in a 140 degree attic? Was it stored in a damp freezing garage?
wesno,The only track I check is the switches…I am yet to check a piece of flex track or sectional track and never had any problems.Our equipment is most forgiving…
This thread spurred me to go check my Atlas Code 83 track. I found only one place where the gauge slipped in. I’ve had no problems at that point. Mostly, the gauge sits on the rail at about 1/4 of the rail head width from the inside.
I had a different disappointment with Atlas, however. The No. 6 turnouts I bought all had guard rails too far from the frogs, while the gauge indicated that the rails were OK. I had to use an emery board to remove material from the guard rails to meet the gauge.
I would probably check the track with my two or three cars and one motor with the narrowest wheel gauge measurements. If they run OK, I would go ahead and use the track. If I were really worried, then I would try to use them in areas where I could easily replace them. And I would try to avoid sharp curves with the missing ties.
I’ve had a similar problem with Atlas switches, all the flangeways at both the frog and guardrails are too wide. This is a problem with the ones I bought 30+ years ago and some I just got new this month. This can cause derailments with some cars or locos, and the fix is simple. Get a pack of Evergreen styrene strips, size .010" by .060", cut them to length just a bit longer than the straight side of the guardrail, then glue this to the guardrail face. When the glue is dry, trim the top to the railhead height and taper the ends to match the “bend” of the guardrail ends. The one flangeway tab of the NMRA gauge is a “no-go” tab, which means it should NOT drop into the flangeway. (step 2 E and F) The two smaller tabs should drop in. (step 2 A thru D)
You’ll be ok using the old flex track. The only concern i would have is if the track was brass. They still made brass flextrack 20 years ago and if it is brass, I’d have to say that you’ll need to deep six it and buy new silver-nickel track. Some guys here don’t remember the brass track days and those that do remember, remember the headaches from all the cleaning sessions and constant contact problems related to the rapid oxidation of the brass rail back then…chuck
Y, the problem with the guardrails caused me to find and correct a few wheel sets. Even correct wheel sets did not fit the guard rails/frogs, though. Strangely, it wasn’t an isolated defect. I had just bought six switches, and they all were the same.
I had brass rail in 1952, and I had a track cleaner car in which we put carbon tetrachloride. Just as with prototypes, there was more oil and grease flying around then than we get now, so the rails got dirtier.
Regarding flanges and switches… just get a big over-built 1960’s DEEP flange wheel equippted engine and run it. If it goes through smoothly then all is set. IF you jitter and hop, and painfully bounce over every tie, frog and spike top then the track is not deep enough.
Heck my big picky beefy angry temper generator is that fine peice of ballast that got loose and makes my mighty steam trip and stumble. Makes me wonder if I can make the real life trains do that with a simple rock the size of a ping pong ball. /sarcasm.
I think part of the problem is thrift. Track is cheep. Switches are expensive. Cough up a few dollars for a big switch that will run your stuff without complaint.
Amen on the chemicals from decades past. Sometimes I wondered if that workshop in the basement was a bomb ready to level the whole city block when that oil burner rumbles to light.
I’ve had HO layouts since the 50’s. Never checked one pc. of track for gauge of any brand. Never had a problem in that area. Using ME now,also with no problems. Sometime we think too much… Just do it. Jerry