It is well documented that the lower angle crossing have noise and derail issues. Both of mine have these issues. There doesn’t seem to be enough clearance for wheel flanges as a car will raise up and down as it passes. Additionally, my NW2 will stall on it I guess it loses power when the wheels lift.
Question is, what can I do about it? File the flangeways?
Yes, file the flangeways, no real problem with doing that.
Rich
I recall something about using a hacksaw blade to deepen a flangeway. It might work, though I’d be VERY careful about it. Especially, there might be some conducting metal buried down below; and you don’t want to cut through it.
I would recommend that you make sure that that is the problem, though. An NMRA gage should be most useful for this. This assumes you’re not running non-compliant deep flanges, by the way.
It’s possible that the problem isn’t because of too-shallow flangeways. That would result in a “rise”. If you’re experiencing a “drop”, it is likely that the wheel is dropping down into the flangeway because it’s not being supported by the frog and/or wing rail.
The stalling of the loco might be because of the use of plastic instead of metal in the frog and nearby areas.
Ed
[:-^]
Hi Bruce,
I only use code 100, but on one 30 D crossover and a couple of turn outs I have had to very carefully clean them out using a grinding disk in my dremel. Being very careful I have not had a problem with any of them. Solved what needed to be solved and no additional damage.
Johnboy out.
Now is the time, to get yourself a jewlers file kit or a cheaper version, from K&S or Harbor Frgt Tools. use the flat sided one, you really should not have to take off much. I would personally would not use a Dremel, or hack saw blade.
Frank
BTW: Also good for filing your turnout points. A good set, cuts fast.
Neither would I.
Rich
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You are entittled to your thoughts,
But what I am saying is that this method has worked well for me three times now.
On those three items, the crossover being “Atlas” and the turnouts being “Peco”, I probably should have taken them back, but it was long after I purchased them. On all three there was a significant bounce to the locomotives and a significant amout had to be removed, I thought this was the most expedious and I was right.
No lingering problems, made them main line high speed crossing and turnouts.
Worked for me, regardless of other’s thoughts.
Johnboy out…I am having a tough day today, sorry 'bout that.
Johnboy,
Don’t get me wrong, I did not say your way would not work. I said I personally, would not do it that way. Especially if it was already in place. What works for you is all that matters. I had the same problem on some Atlas turnouts, it was not that they bottomed out, it was because the guard rail was too close to the stock rail and the gap needed to be wider and it was causing the wheel flange to ride up on the guard rail. If they didn’t get stuck.
Frank
I have three Atlas code 83, 90 degree crossings almost close coupled and had / have the same problem. I reduced the problem by filing, but not sure how much the problem was lack of width vs depth for the flange. They don’t derail anything now but still have some affect. I haven’t decided whether to re-work them or replace them with another brand in the long term. I’d use their flex track again but not their crossings. I’m not sure whether they ever correct their problem children over the years or just make 'em again.