In looking at the Atlas website there is a definite difference between True-Track snap switches and their regular code 83 line of snap switches. On the True-Track the diverging curved route is much longer so you just can’t get the yard ladders very close.
On the regular code 83 snap switch the diverging route is short and it looks like they include a short curve section that would allow much closer yard tracks.
The difference that i noticed was the ties. The ties on a snap switch were cut at angles, maybe as a way to save yard space or tight areas. Real turnouts have ties of different lengths that haven’t been cut, basically because having to cut it would be a waste of time. If you don’t understand what i just said, go to the nearest turnout and make a comparison, just watch out for trains! Atlas also makes a separete line called the Custom line track components. These include both crossovers and the correct turnout type. It is commonly said that the Customline turnouts have smoother curves and less maintanence issues to deal with.
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My Snap Switches are four years old. The ones you have may be different. I also feel that my method of checking roughly is not very accurate. I’ll postpone any more judgements until I make the trial yard as I posted before.
But I stand by the fact that my SD40-2 went over the switches just fine, including two crossovers.
Good luck.
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I have used them on 3 Ho layouts…Painted,ballasted and Caboose ground throws and they look pretty good and you can’t beat the price…paint a little clear finger nail polish on the points will stop shorting on short wheel base locos…Cox 47
hi again, just saw the Whistler Mountaineer roll by with a CPR F-unit in tow and I just ran to watch and blahblahblah…
…anyway, if you’re willing to fork out a little extra cash (maybe $5-$10), the Customline switches are the way to go. The switch machines that attach to snap switches attach easy. Just clip them in place, they just don’t look that real. Atlas makes an undertable switch machine too. These hide under the layout and can be installed facing either left or right. There was a small issue with the remote switch machines though, they are underpowered. What i mean is if there is anything blocking the points, they won’t work. Another problem was overheating, which you could cause by using the specific turnout too much. If you don’t want these problems, try the Tortoise switch machines. These are more expensive but have power to spare, and there is no overheating problem. These are more expensive though.
you choose what suits you. Me, I gotta go. I think i hear–(Train horn in distance) OMG GOTTA GO!!!
That doesn’t surprise me…I have back 86 foot cars through a snap crossover…NOT recommand but,not impossible at slow speeds…Didn’t look very pretty either.
I have a whole herd of snap-switches on my BRVRR layout. Since the layout is only 4’ x 10’ I used them to save space. I use them in the yard (admittedly small), in cross-overs and as simple siding turnouts.
The powered switches use modified Atlas twin-coil actuators mounted under the layout or under table machines. Caboose Industries ground throws are used on the ‘manual’ turnouts.
I have never had problems running 4-8-4 steamers, or SD40s, PAs or E8s through the turnouts. My grandson’s Challenger navigates them without problems as well.
Most of my snap-switches are 5-6 years old and still function well. I think I have had to replace 1 or 2 of them on the BRVRR over the past 4-5 years.
I have found the Atlas snap-switch to be rugged and reliable. When thrown with under table machines or ground throws, they work and look good enough for my purposes. If saving space is the goal, my advice is to go with the snap-switch.