I have the opportunity to purchase a number of HO Atlas Snap Switches are these turnouts good for tight industrial yards - such as at a chemical plant or a pulp mill? I have a small shelf layout in development and these turnouts are readily available at a great price?
The Atlas “Snap” 18" radius turnouts are great for saving space.
However, many folks feel that they are somewhat “toy like” in appearance.
Have fun
The switch machine both manual and automated is highly unrealistic and many metal parts on other turnouts tend to be made of plastic on this. In terms of use, any car can run through them at the right speed.
I have used “snap” switches on some industrial switching layouts where a normal #4 would not work…Another thing is you DO NOT have to use that 1/2 of 18" curve in order to use the switch…I have used that curve in a reverse manner to swing the track in toward the industry.
These switches also require short 40/50 foot cars and 4 axle locomotives and nothing larger then a 0-8-0-better would be a 0-6-0.
While I do not recommend this I have use crossovers made with “snaps” on small ISL…[:O]
I have used them with good results , I use Caboose Industry ground throws , and trim off the switch machine , a friend used the Atlas under the table mounted switch machines with no problems . Alittle weathering and you are good to go .
I say use them and enjoy.
Only in very tight industrial areas where car speeds are slow. Very slow.
Be prepared to do a great deal of MOW work on these switches.
If the turnouts are a good enough price and the quantity is good. I don’t think you could go wrong. It sounds like you are new to the hobby and I also think it would be a good way to get started without a huge investment. One thing make sure they are nickel silver and not brass. You definitely wouldn’t be all that happy with brass.
Be careful of the rails at the points end of the turnout. They can be broken loose from the ties quite easily and can be a bear to realign perfectly. Also, I wouldn’t suggest trying to back more than 10 cars at one time through them, unless your trackwork is absolutely perfect (And I have yet to see that).
Snap Switches:
They will allow most cars to back through, but will severly restrict engines to those with 4 axles.
They are ‘considered entry-level’ turnouts for beginners with 4X8 boards, requiring extra 'sharp surves.
Since their ‘divirging’ tracks are curved. I would not tempt fate by using them as crossovers - or any configuration creating reverse ‘S’ curves. (#4s and #6s have 2" of straight in them for minimizing that problem).
Since their design is 50 years old, R&D is paid for, so price is cheap. I would not hesitate to use with a small industrial switcher - like the RR’s did. Many large corporations had their own track and crews - US Steel and Coors Brewery come to mind.
CAVEATS: Aside from prohibiting some locomotives. They used rivets to pass power to the points. These get arthritus with age and may need replacing. Don’t expect 100% yield.
If the ties are broken off at the point end, just solder in a pc board tie. Works great as long as you remember to cut the copper foil between the rails. Don’t need any shorts.
Ralph
Amargosa Railroad
Snap switches do severly limit the geometry of a layout. They don’t work well for yards as the tracks will be too far apart.
I have some and my 6-axel SD34 and SD9 work just fine. But I have only one 50’ box car (a sound car) and had to use longer couplers or they would derail at some turnouts when coupled with the SDs.
Make sure they are the same code as what your using. I don’t know if Atlas makes code 83 snaps. They are probably code 100.
Yes they make code 83. At least their True Track line includes code 83 which can be removed from the plastic road bed and used on any other type of road bed system. So I assume that code 83 is available.
jwils1-Your right. I just checked their site and they list them in standard code 83 too.[:I]
MOST Atlas ‘Snap Switches’ are code 100.
Their newer code 83. among other things, is mounted on thicker ties to raise to code 100 height - the Atlas ‘standard’.
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Hmm. Now you have made me curious.
I had all Atlas Code 83 Snap Switches on my layout and never had a problem with them with my SD40-2 and a couple long cars. This thread spurred me to go check the radius. Using an Atlas 24 in. radius Code 83 section as a guide, the Snap Switch appears to be very near 22 in. radius. It appears to be definitely straighter than 18 in. radius. When I rebuilt, I decided to use Atlas No. 6 turnouts because I now have more room and I think they look much better on the main. I now have a minimum radius of 22 In.
Now that I have made this comparison, however, I intend to make a trial yard using the old Snap Switches to see whether they will work well for that purpose, instead of just scrapping them. If they work well, I can get more yard in a given space than with the No. 6 turnouts.
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The current Atlas snap switches are definitely 18" radius. I have some built into 18" curves. Maybe the older “snap switches” were different.
If used for yards your tracks will be approximately 4 1/4" on center.
I have a small yard for a chemical plant that has snap switches in the ladder. I shortened the straight route to get the 2" track centers I needed for the track. I soldered a jumper wire between the points & stock rails to take care of any electrical dead spots to the points. I do not have any derailment problems with 4-axle diesels & up to 62’ tank cars.
I did a rough check with some of my snap switches and by shortening the straigth portion at both ends about the best I could get was 3" on center. I guess I’m not following how you did this.
I also had to make a slight curve in the flex track that attaches to the diverging route. It can be done but its been awhile. I do remember having to trim both ends of the TO. I now lay my own so I can build them to suit. I have a 24" carboard template that I try to adhere to as my minimum radius. Buillding in place allows alot more flexibility in design