Going with code 83 so I can get 24 radius sections
Bought two packs of Atlas 24" radius assuming each pack would be a half circle
Well you know what assuming does --takes 8 pieces
What is the rational for for putting 6 pieces in a pack
I can see 4 or 8 but why 6
Now I have to buy another 6 pack and will end up with 2 extra pieces
And why don’t they state how many you need ?
22" radius sectional track has required 16 section to make full circle for about 50 years - why would the code 83 version be different? I know you are frustrated, but this is a hobby thing - Live and learn! BTW, dealers can buy Snap-Track in ‘bulk’ and a lot do sell individual sections of track. I have some Bachmann EZ-Track that I use for a test track and DCC programming track - I just use flex for the layout. I can put it where I want it and do not have a gazillion rail joiners to fail electrically over the next year.
Jim
What the hell kind of answer is that "Live and Learn "
I don’t care if they have been doing it for 100 years
What is wrong with stating on the pack ( Packed by Atlas ) how many are needed or how many degrees each piece is
I know where you are coming from. I think some body calls it creative marketing. Its like the number of hot dogs and bun packaging thing. Another way to get a few more dollars out of you. On the good side, I have found out that you never have enough track. Unfortunately, just last night I ruined two pieces of track while soldering them. It happens, things break, fall, or just get messed up somehow. Good luck!
Probably for the same reason you get 8 hot dog buns and 10 hot dogs .[swg]
It is always good to have an extra piece or 2 if one gets damaged.
Now you will be 2 pieces ahead when you expand.
Maybe they’re trying to get you to build a helix.
The practice of building complete circles of 22" or 24" radius is relatively new. Most published Atlas HO layouts use some 22" radius pieces in conjunction with their turnouts, or as part of an otherwise 18" radius circle. The six packs for 15" and 18" radius do work out to half circles, but invariably a turnout replaces at least one full curved piece - so you have extras with the smaller radii, too.
Why do straights come in 4 packs? It’s a cross between selling pieces individually, and selling an entire layout at once.
And if Atlas is going to do their geometry right, they need 7.5 degree and 10 degree 22" and 24" pieces (1/3-22 and 40%-22) to better match up their #4 turnouts. Or switch their full size to 20 degrees rather than 22.5 degrees - 18 pieces to a circle. The current 1/2-22 is pretty useless from a track geometry point of view.
Of course, back when, mismatches of up to 2.5 degrees were considered tolerable. Many published Atlas track plans have that amount of mismatch. One - the Morgan Valley - has a 7.5 degree mismatch if built without flex track. The real solution is to move everybody to flex track, where you will have wastage, but smoother trackwork.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
Maybe Atlas figures that the average model railroader can tell the difference between a 30 degree arc and a 22.5 degree arc.
If you’re looking for information, this response was uncalled for.
If you’re looking for sympathy - try a dictionary.
Experienced model rails don’t use sectional track - you can’t form a proper spiral easement.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - from my own field notes)
You know, Uncle Bob, “live and learn” is an expression, not a criticism. Jim extended his sympathy regarding your frustration in the same reply. If you want to know so bad why Atlas doesn’t state it on the package, then write an email to Atlas Customer Service. Here is their email address: csdept@atlasrr.com Or ask your question on the Atlas forum: http://www.atlasrr.com/
What the hell kind of answer is that will not get you very far on this forum and that my be good.
I know this is going to sound like another flippant answer, but why do you want to use sectional track at all? If you use flex track, you will eliminate 3/4 of the rail joints, with their attendant risks of kinking and poor electrical conductivity. As someone already mentioned, flex track gives you the ability to add easements to the curves. And, when you find that your paper track plan doesn’t quite translate exactly when you start building it in nickel-silver, the flex track gives you the ability to make that little “fudge” to correct it.
Well I just checked their True Track 83 code and it comes in 4 and 8 packs which makes sense
Well then Atlas must be gearing its sectional track to the inexperienced like me and should state what they product represents --You defeat your own so called logic
And as far as sympathy --nobody on these forums has ever complained about a product-could have fooled me
I still uses sectional onces in a while. I do prefer flex track. I use sectional curve sections if I need a very short turn, I cut to fit. A 3 inch section of flex track can be a pain to work. I all so used it in the corner of the new section leading to the K-10 Mining. Very tight area to work in, I don’t think I could have got the flex track as smooth as the sectional in that tight spot.
Cuda Ken
I have a small layout going up 54" by 116"
I find the curves easier to do with the sectional and the straights 48 inch modules would only accomodate a single section of flex
I will use flex on the straights unless I plan to put in anon functional crossover ( 22 and 24 ovals )in using no 6s for appearance sake in which case it would take up most of the one side --And also rerailers --I will use use flex on the other side Here is a pic of the bench set up I test fit in my living room ( can’t do it in the basement till I get rid of the current bench)
I use sectional track exclusively (except for long straights where I can get away with a full piece of flex track) because I take my layout down every year. When I finally get the perminant space for a layout I will use flex track everywhere that I can. Until then I’m kind of stuck. I don’t even usually nail the track down, actually. And yes, there are occasional derailments, but with some good planning (and a bunch of small pieces of straight track) you can get them running decently well. I even have some larger locomotives that will run on my track just fine (Bowser M1, Rivarossi 2-8-8-2 (needs a new motor)). The largest radius I currently have is 22", although I’ve been tempted to try to get some 24" and have an inner loop use 22"… maybe for next year!
As far as the oddball number of pieces… I use up alot of pieces of track, so it really doesn’t bother me. Plus, like someone else said, pieces get bent or broken, especially when you take them apart and put them away every year.
I feel your pain about coming up short or having left over track but I found most of my left over bits have come in handy when you need to cut a section to fit in a new yard or siding. And having the left over will save you from buying a package for 3 inches of track you need to complete a section.
Nothing wrong about it, but why not write a polite letter to Atlas and make the suggestion? In the meanwhile, don’t make assumptions. Ask the LHS staff the question at the time of purchase. Ordering via internet? Well, that’s your choice.
Mark
If you read my origunal post closely you would have seen I took myself to task for ASSUMING