Hi,
I have (like) engines with short wheelbases!!! I like to run them slow for switching on my 4x8 double loop DCC of 14 Atlas code 100 snap switches with plastic frogs, sectional and flex track. I have or had installed sound decoders in all engines. Obviously, I like to hear the start, idling and running of all the different prime movers with loads. The other thing I like ( a very distant second) is weathering. My rdc, gp9 and covered wagons run my track as if it is one big circle but every time my short wheelbases cross turnouts, they hesitate or stop and then restart. It is very frustrating.
How do I wire the turnouts or do I replace the turnouts or will I have to double head the shorties which I can do but then how do I handle the galloping goose for mail delivery to all structures, even the stockyard? This is my one stumbling block. I’m comfortable with everything else.
When you say that the short wheelbase locos “hesitate or stop and then restart”, can you tell if it is a pause on the dead frog or is it a momentary short?
A short wheelbase loco crossing a dead frog (e.g., an Atlas Code 100 snap switch) at slow speeds may stall for lack of power, whereas a wheel touching both rails as the loco exits the frog can cause a momentary short.
I have had some trouble with the Atlas snap switch. Some of my trouble was not only with the dead frog but also with the movable rail. The pivot point can become loose or a poor conducter, ( for lack of a better word). In theory both ends provide power to the switch blade but corrosion on the ends can cause surges. On my Atlas turnouts I clean the tip and where it touches the main rail.On the pivot I have used a contact lube that is supposed to premote better current flow.
The problem is almost certainly the dead frog. Replacing the turnouts with live frog models would solve the problem but may be tough since I am not aware of any with the same geometry as the snap switches.
Another possibility would be a “keep alive” capacitor in each loco so they would run a second or two even without power from the rails until they have passed over the dead frog.
It is possible to hand-lay turnouts with any geometry, even that of an Atlas snap-switch. That might be preferable to trying to insert commercial turnouts with incompatable design features.
Over the years there have been hundreds of threads (and thousands of posts) on the subject of hand-laying specialwork. There are also You-tube videos on the subject.
Admittedly, there is a learning curve involved. It can’t be too steep - the clumsy ox pounding this keyboard mastered it to the point that I look forward to building puzzle palaces of odd-geometry specialwork.
Try it. You might like it.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with all hand-laid specialwork)
Since the OP’s layout is a 4 x 8 double loop, it may not be too difficult to reconfigure the turnouts since the geometry of the snap track turnout and Custom Line #4 turnout are not that different.
I’ve never used Atlas Custom Line turnouts but think the frogs arebdead unless you wire them using a relay or some such to change the polarity. Not a big deal, perhaps, but if I am right the OP will need to take that into consideration.
The easiest thing to try is more feeders and soldering the rail joiners. Yes, you may have a dead frog problem, and yes, you may have a problem with that rivet on the point rails, but it really helps to make absolutely sure you’ve got solid track power to every section of track. If you’re depending on unsoldered rail joiners to transmit power, you do NOT have solid power, and it could be interrupted by something as simple as the weight of the engine.
Decided the quickest improvement I could make would be swapping a snap turnout for a custom line turnout #4. Purchased one. On back of blister pack, it was recommended I also purchase Atlas snap relay #200. Did that. Back at layout, noticed both turnouts had similar bare area on bottom of turnout where snap relay busbar was to be attached. Thought I would attach snap relay to snap turnout to see what will happen. Most of wiring done. I now have to interrupt what I am doing for about a week or more. Will do final wiring and testing then. Will post results.
Glad You started your own thread, much easier that way.
I have quite a few Customline #4’s on my layout in the Industrial area’s and some I was having trouble with metal dead frog, but they were already ballasted and could not add the bus bar and you can’t solder to those hardly at all. So I drilled a hole from the top hole at the frog and used a #24 gauge solid wire with a small 90 degree bend at the top at the hole and used that little black screw for the bus bar and screwed that into the hole with the wire with the small bend in it and it worked perfect, so I did the rest of them that way. That black machine screw is hardly noticeable at all. The switch machines are all undertable Atlas with #200 snap relays, back when they were a lot cheaper than they are now. Along with the frog, you can power signals and control panel switch indicator lights with them, That is my main use. My layout is rather large, with three control panels spread out for my all DC 3cab control layout, I do run DCC Engines with sound, but usually when the grand kids are over. I have plenty of power with 3 MRC CM 20’s.
One more thing if I may add…when using the number 4’s, make sure you have at least a 2 1/2 inch straight section before the points or cars will want to always take the diverging route, even if set for straight, because the truck will be twisted that way, if there is less straight track before entering points.
Installing an Atlas #200 snap relay on the “regular” Atlas snap track turnout seems to be the problem solver, at least for qne randomly chosen turnout.
Now to implement the other suggestions where I can, with the objective of maintaining a dependable layout, one without electrical faults and one that anyone can run.
This problem has bothered me for sometime. Now I can enjoy the hobby again. Thanks everyone.
If you pay for access to the MR VideoPlus feature, the Olympia Logging project layout, episode 7 “modifying a turnout” has a very good and very clear tutorial by David Popp on modifying a Peco turnout, presumably Electrofrog, to improve the electrical current at the frog. It does call for soldering skills however. While not the same geometry as Atlas, I suspect that between the small and medium sized Peco turnouts you could come pretty close and not have to relay vast amounts of track to fit it in.