Extreme newby trying to assemble atlas code 83 ho track.
Having the hardest time joining sections.
WHat is the easiest way to install rail joiners on rail ends?
There should be a small tab like extension on the bottom of the rail joiner. Set the bottom of the rail on that tab and then align left to right. As you push together the sides of the rail should slide into round edges of the joiners. Then press together.
It might help if you put them on a flat surface. Then the rails should be at about the right height to begin with.
Eslsrr,
You may also use a fine flat tip screwdriver like a jewlers screw driver and lift both sides of the joiner end at the tip slightly to start the rail in the joiner, once connected use the same screwdriver to push the pieces you lifted up against the rail. You want a tight fit on rail joiners. Some make a filed piece of rail, just for that purpose.
Cheers, [D]
Frank
I clip off that small tab-like extension that TZ referred to because it just adds to the length of the rail joiner requiring the removal of another plastic tie to fit right.
As Frank suggested, you want a tight fit. Sometimes, I will use a pair of snip nose pliers to apply side pressure to a rail joiner before installing it to make it fit tighter. Apply too much pressure and you can no longer fit it onto the rail because it is too tight. When that happens, I use that same pair of snip nose pliers to force the rail joiner completely onto a scrap piece of rail, then remove it, and install onto the two pieces of track to be connected.
Rich
First make sure the rail end is squared with a clean cut. Next check to see there is room between the rail end and the end tie for the rail joiner. If not, either cut the tie off or shave off the molded spike heads so the rail joiner can slide over the top of the tie. Last, it sometimes helps to file the corners off the rail base–a couple of swipes with a file should do it.
good luck!
The rail itself may need a bit of TLC. Even fresh from the fabricating machine, rail ends can (and usually do) have burrs, especially across the bottom of the base. A few seconds with a file (or slightly longer with an emory board filched from your significant other’s nail care supplies) can make the difference between an easy rail joiner installation and a sudden PITA.
Be sure to de-burr the whole rail end - especially the top and inside of the railhead. Then take a little facet out of the upper inside corner of the railhead, about .5mm wide at the rail end and about 2.5mm along the length of the rail. That one little action will remove the most common source of ‘mystery’ derailments.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September 1964 - on Atlas flex, as bulletproof as possible)
Uhhh…guys…Isn’t the first step cutting off the last few ties to have a bare section of rail to slide the joiner on to? Perhaps this is what the OP needs to do at this point.
Well that assumes flex track. Atlas DOES have snap-track sectional track in Code 83. There is no tie remval required for sectional track.
The joiners DO fit tight, but that’s a good thing. Atlas says the same joiners are for Code 83 and Code 100 - well, I hope the Code 100 has the same width and thickness to the base of the rail, because as tight as they go on to the Code 83, they would be impossible to force on something bigger.
Small needle-nose pliers help avoid the sliced or punctured finger. I’d rather they go on tight - after they’ve been used once, the next time you try to connect those sections, they will slip on fairly easily. A tight mechanical fit is essential for good power transmission as well as keeping the rails properly aligned, whether or not you go back and solder the rail joints.
–Randy
Ha. Yes, I assumed flex track since I couldn’t figure there would be a problem with sectional track. I guess its possible.
Been there, done that!
Definitely cut off the tab. Also, use some 2-26 to act as a lubricant.
Yeah, after a session of laying track, my thumb looks like I sliced it up with a knife. Thankfully, the number of times I’ve slipped and jabbed the rail into my finger have been few.
–Randy
Some do, some don’t. I prefer to move the rail out of the way and carve rail joiner clearance into the ties with a hobby knife, either chisel point or #11 blade. Partially because those “To be removed” ties have the preformed track nail holes, partially because my joiner may end up some distance from the end of the tie strip. I don’t cut the shorter rail. I slide it into the next length of flex, thereby reducing the probability of a kink on curved track.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Think I will seek out easier to assemble track. Suggestions?
Skip to the solution and buy Peco track…It’s been rock solid for me from assembly to electrical.
Dan