I am planning on creating a 1’ scenic divider out of Masonite, but am not sure how to attach it. I could make a framework out of 1"x2" lumber or something similar to that, but I am interested in curving it slightly to give it a little variety. On one end of the divider there is a 4" hill, but in the center of it both sides extend to the ground. Also, what kind of attachment/adhesive would you use to attach it to the support?
Thanks for your ideas.
I got foam board from Michaels. It was so light I could attach it with white glue on the bottom edge and supported it with of 1" cubes of leftover extruded foam in a few places.
Is there a reason you need Masonite? Having a 1x4 frame would mean you will also need to cover it on both sides. Do you need the structure? For only a 1" height, maybe a 1/4" plywood will hold up with no supports.
NP.
The frame will be overkill. It looks great on paper but the 1x4s are way heavier than they’d look. I learned that from my own experience with a frame for a backdrop. It weighed a ton too. If its only a a foot tall…heck, even 1/8th inch masonite is self-supporting at that height. Quarter inch plywood would definitely do it and be thinner.
Ok I am sorry I was a bit quick to make assumptions about your framework. I also assumed that Masonite would be less stiff than plywood, I don’t know the thickness you are considering. I don’t want to assume stuff and blurt out answers, I need to note assumption.
With 1/4" plywood and perhaps also with Masonite, I think you could make small lengths of 2x2s (say 2" long) and install them on your benchwork along the curve, spaced say 4-8" apart. Screw and glue the board on these and apply another set of the same blocks on the other side. If the radius of curvature was >3’ (this is slightly larger than the curvature of my facia at one place, where I did this successfully) then plywood worked well and took the curve pretty nicely.
Hope this helps a bit?
NP
Gidday, Here is a link to a thread a couple of months ago regarding a similar query. I put my two bobs worth in then, but particularly liked “ndprr” idea of using dowels.
http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/205324.aspx
Hope this is of use,
Cheers,the Bear.
Thanks for the suggestions. I was planning on using 1/8" Masonite, but any thickness would work; I don’t have it yet. I am planning on attaching cardboard strips to the backdrop to create the hardshell scenery for the hill, so the backdrop there will have something it has to support.
NP - I like your idea with the 2x2s. The radius will definitely be greater than 3’. One problem with attaching the blocks on both sides is that on one side there is a river and I would have a hard time disguising them there. I do plan on making the river a bit rocky; I could make it one giant rock! (n scale)
I had another idea, but don’t know how it would work. What if I took a couple layers of 1/8" plywood and laminated them together in the shape of my curve using some wood glue or something to create a 1/2" thick backdrop? I would then be able to attach it under the hill with some wood blocks, and I can screw it in from the bottom of the table where the river is. How plausible do you thing this idea is?
2x2s could be on only one side with 1/8" thick board I think. Your curved lamination idea sounds good, but I worry you will need to hold it in position for a while somehow. I have not tried this.
Here’s another idea that flew into my funnel (Thomas Train reference): There are L shaped brackets they sell at the hardware store. You could sub the 2x2 with the brackets. On the benchwork side you can probably use #6 3/4" wood screws assuming you have 1/2" plywood. On the backdrop side you will need to drill and use small nut-bolts as you won’t have enough thickness for screws. you could go crazy by countersinking the L brackets and would have hardly anything sticking out.
Hope this helps.
Either wooden blocks or angle brackets would work to hold the backdrop in place. Use short bolts through the angle brackets and backdrop, not thick enough to hold screws. Screws through the backdrop into a wooden block should hold fine.
I used 1/4" plywood, set at slight angle to the sides, did not try to curve it. Masonite is usually only smooth on one side. You might be able to set up your curved blocking, then slip two pieces of masonite in back to back to get your curve. Apply glue just before putting in place.
Good luck,
Richard
Here’s what I did. It’s six feet long, 1/8" masonite, joined at the rear to two curved pieces. The center piece was free standing by cutting a groove down the center of 2" of blue foam, and pushing the masonite down. I then decided to install the curved ends.
http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq311/BobCasey/17%20x%2017/3%20-%20Bench%20Work/04-09-10_03.jpg
http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq311/BobCasey/17%20x%2017/3%20-%20Bench%20Work/04-09-10_04.jpg
Hi guys,
I am at this exact point in layout construction myself. I am using 1/16" styrene for the dividers. I too am making the dividers one foot high.
Instead of wood supports I used T-bar ceiling wall angle. The angle is cheap - $4 for 10’ - and easy to work with. The angle can be cut with tin snips and punched with an awl to screw it to the benchwork. No sawdust! Then I used adhesive backed magnetic strip to attach the styrene to the angle. This way there is no screws through the front of the divider.
To join pieces of styrene for longer sections I spliced the sections with model cement.
Something to consider.
Dwayne A
hi WWtrain
On the assumption you are using some form of open frame bench work with a raised track bed.
Cut curved wooden formers for the curve glue and screw the Masonite to the formers add a few mounting blocks the same way for the straight bits.
Glue and screw the whole lot down where you want it, make sure mountings go where the surrounding scenic forms or structures will hide the mounting points.
Don’t forget the scenery should go up and over to the back scene to help blur the joint between scenery and back scene.
you probably already know that but it’s saying just in case.
regards John