To start with if you have a 45N from the 30’s or one to present thy are basicly the same except old are all metal and the new ones are all plastic. ( some in the middle are 1/2 and 1/2 ) anyway
your going to have to take the bottom off to see why its jamming. I take it you mean you can’t even help it shut it won’t move period) now if it opens as supose to but won’t close its your return spring is strached. But other wise unless you get the bottom opened and you look inside you won’t know and we can’t really tell you. We can guess whats going on but without see it could be a few things.
RT is right. To open the bottom to take a look, there are 4 small tabs that need to be pried up. Try to be careful when prying, as the tabs can break. The bottom should come off, exposing the mechanism.
A common reason for the door and guy to jam in the open position is the nut under the gateman’s foot being too tight. I’d check there first; loosen it a bit and see what happens. If all is well, I’d put the bottom back in place, but leave the tabs opened up. If that nut is too loose, it can work its way off causing the gateman to fall down. Once you’re happy that the nut won’t fall off, press the tabs back in place. Of course all this is assuming that the nut is the problem.
I have opened the bottom as you have instructed. You are correct in assuming that I cannot even help the gateman or door close. It seems to be totally stuck.
In looking at the mechanics of the gateman, I’m not totally clear how it works. I am assuming that once the contactor has been contacted by the train, an electronic signal is sent to the rolled up red coiled wire in the unit, which in turn thrusts the connected metal pin outward, causing the door and gateman to swing out. Is that the case as far as you know? If so, that metal pin connected to the red coiled wire is not budging at all right now.
The plastic that the coil is wrapped around got too hot and warped. This will cause the plunger to stuck as yours possibly did. and jam up everything.It will happen if the gateman is powered up for too long and/or too much voltage.
Your best bet is to get a junker and get the coil out of it. Otheriwse some of the parts guys may have a replacemet.
So, the metal pin within the coil is called a plunger? If so, then I was correct in stating the plunger is suppose to move in and out of the coil depending if the gateman is open or close?