Rene,
I found a cover story GR Aug. 2004 issue p.64 where they do use them.
I am sorry I could not find the issue when the person asked that question awhile back if you remeber where it was on here the guy ask, I can not remember.
Toad
Toady, what do they use it for, DC track power? I have one that’s 10 amps and switchable from 6 to 12 volts. Plenty of amps, but 12 volts seems a little low for anything but maybe some critters…which would be fine with me. LOL
ARN’T THEY UNFILTERED DC ??? i DON’T THINK THEY ARE SAFE TO USE FOR ANY THING BUT THIER INTENDED USE, CAR’S!
The Complex & Climax Division of the Union Pacific Railroad
By Eric and Jan Haas, Lafayette, Co.
p. 66
"Track power and wiring
With only a few exceptions, the long-range plan we created back
In 1998 has guided virtually every other decision we have made
And executed over the past six years. Knowing that we intended
To run very long trains, with multiple lash-ups, on multiple mainlines
Creates problems unique to this scale of operation.
For example, there are 96 pairs of multi-conductor wire running
Throughout the railroad. Due to load requirements of operating four
To six engines, with up to 80 to 100 cars on any given mainline,
The vast majority is #12 and #14 gauge wire.
The railroad is powered by three separate 20amp circuits driving
Three pairs of 12v automobile battery chargers, each set wired in
Series. Battery chargers are cheap, and instantly available for $25
Bucks at any K-mart or Wal-mart. For non-electrically inclined,
“series” means taking the black lead from one charger and hooking
it to the red lead on the other. The result is either 18V or 24V output,
with unlimited amps (50 plus). To these power sources are hooked
eight Aristo-craft Train Engineer radio control receivers, each
governing a particular segment of the railroad."
There RR
5 mainlines, 2 branch, app. 1200’+, in Aug 2004
Ref: above magazine for total article.
Funny , this subject came up , just late this summer , a freind was having a open house [layout] and I was early , [:)] his high dollar power xfmr went kaputt . [:(!]
with nothing else available , I asked if he had a battery charger , yes he did , the 6v / 12v kind …well with small locos , he was able to run slow on the 6v , or faster / or a larger loco , on the 12v setting . [:P] the get together , train running , was saved [:D]
Read all about it. http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net/grw040801.html
It may be for autos, but it is there RR. Thinking out side the box helps to like, Vic, F J and G and the ole C you either blow it up or find something that others can use as well is good for G scale.
Good man Dennis! You thought out of the box on a open house and saved it in a way. [bow]
Toad, WHY go for something cheap and nasty, from your comments on the forum I think you are a wise guy in what you say when offering advice and help to people. If $ low then put it on the back burner until you can get a good power unit and wire your layout to 5 or 6 differant points. IF a unit goes belly up it could cost you dear in new power supply plus it could cost you dear in new motors and circuit boards.
Two Tone,
Let me start by sayn it was another person awhile back who ask this question.
Thing was I knew the answer was in one of the magazines but I could not recall which year.
I found the magazine and wanted to post it. I did look for the orginal post he posted.
Myself I use a 20 amp whatever brand (think it is bridgeworks) but when people want to try even something different should we not back them, but yet advise them it can/could hurt boards.
No I am not wise, just on the level.
I’ve heard about the battery charger and even a car battery idea before as well, but from a different source. I’m thinking it could be filtered to make more of a straight line vice chopped.
(I’ve always thought if I had a piece of land, I’d build me a critter from a go-kart and run it on wood rails (logs) sort of like this:
Hi Toad ,Sorry I picked it up wrongly from the posts.
While I’m in agreement about NOT using a battery charger, I must also say that modern high end battery chargers are suitable for the job. They have filter circuitry made into them. Why? Because an automotive computer system cannot take voltage spikes and “nasty” voltage. While the cheaper charges sold in most retail stores are certainly not made for this type of work, there are some out there that would work…and probably very well.
Two Tone, man don’t sweat the small stuff. Besides I love people across the pond!
Toad (other side of the Pond)
Chap, yes I would not use one but these people did and got away with it! With a very large lay out I must say.
I am not sayn to use them at all it was just something I finialy found in GR mag that some one had ask about.
Besides, replaced my battery in my truck and now the dang thing security alarm will not work right!!! Yes, it was a new batt. too!!! [xx(]
I know that this would only work for a few hours, but. I have a booster that will jumpstart your car if the battery is dead. The cool thing with it is that it also has a house style plug to “power a tv” (as the box says). So, you could plug your train into it, and have some fun for a few hours. Just my [2c].
You know, has any one broke one open to see what is in there? Like is it a UPS battery? Just asking!?? [D)]
Toadie stumped
I will have to look tomorrow, as my mom has the car. But it is similar to this one:
Product Features
- Provides up to 200 watts of AC power
- Operates 115-volt AC or 12-volt DC products anywhere
- 250 PSI air compressor for inflating tires and sports equipment
- Comes with vehicle jumper cables
- Built-in emergency light for illumination at home or on the road
Not sure if it would work as I have battery power locomotives so I have not tested it.
I have a B&D jump start and 12v plug in but never was so wanting to see what battery/s they place in them.
As far as the track and engine I would say not long and really depends on the ft. of it.
Tappn web toes thinkn if I should open it [}:)]
Toad
TF:
None of your posts ever struck me as nasty. I thought they were suppos’t to be funny.
Anyway, about battery chargers: I believe if you’re worried about the ‘ripple factor’ there’d be no problem with motors other than they might ‘dither’ (oscillate back 'n forth) at very low voltages with no load. Depends on how they’re wound, to the best of my recollection. What might be a problem is the newfangled electronic cards for sound and whatnot. They might produce a low hum at the speaker. If you’re concerned about spikes (and justifiably so) hang a big capacitor across the output leads as a filter. Say perhaps 40 to 100 microfarad. A small bleeder resistor across the cap on the order of a few thousand ohms would do for a bleeder, else a big cap might hold a charge long enough after power was off to either keep the engine running a tad longer or give the operator an unexpected spark if the tracks were shorted inadvertently.
Someone with more electronics experience than I will have to address the ‘infinite current’ to be gotten by connecting chargers in series. I don’t think that’s possible. In parallel, yes, up to a point. Then the weakest one will fail, I think. Check with someone as knows for sure, though.
Les
Greetings from Beast!
Beauty and I are new to model railroading. We are interested in garden railways and have a Bachman Pennsylvanian. How about using a solar battery charger, two 12 volt wet cell batteries, and a control circuit consisting of an on/off switch, potentiometer, DPDT switch, and possibly volt/amp meters? Has anyone tried this? Also is there much voltage drop for long sections of tracK/
Happy railroading
Beast