i am looking for a steam locomotive that will run on my track…i like the 4-8-4 bachman h.o." overland limited "…on the box its states i will need larger radius track ( 22 "inch i think) …what size steam locomotive will run on the standard bachman track…thanks…tishman
My Rivarossi UP 4-8-4 handles 22" without any hesitation so I can’t see you having much difficulty. I have a BLI 2-10-4 coming for Christmas and I’ll be very interested to see how it will negotiate my curves. I suspect I’ll be “R cubing” (Rage, Rip,Regret, Replace) some of my turnouts.
JUst have to wait until Christmas morning.
Fergie
I don’t know what you mean by Bachmann standard track, but assume you mean their EZ-track or whatever they call it that just snaps together. What is the curve radius of the Bachmann track? The 4-8-4 requires a minimum 22 inch radius.
Bachmann makes both 18" and 22" in snap track
Fergie
It’s one of the great challenges of this hobby…reading and determining the ‘fine print’ even if there isn’t any.
Rule of Thumb; ‘The more ‘flanged’ drivers, the wider the radius.’
Most engines on model HO pikes are 4 or 6 drivered and will run on 18" or 22" radius track. Most 4-8-4’s will require 22" or greater. Now if only the front and back drivers or some combination are only flanged, then your 4-8-4 might work on a smaller radius. I’ve recently read several reviews on at least two 4-8-4’s that discuss this.
I have a Bachman 2-10-0 (Decapod) that is flanged on the 1st two drivers and the last two drivers with the middle being unflanged…it zips around 18" radius curves just fine. I have a PFM 4-8-4 (a brass engine with all drivers flanged) that will not tolerate any radius under 24". A friend has a Challenger that will work on 18" radius curves (unless there are no “S” curves involved like at switches).
Soooooo, it all depends.
If you’re running ‘Big Steam’ like a 4-8-4 then some further analysis or study of the kind of road you intend to run it on may be indicated. They didn’t run 4-8-4’s on mountainous roads with tight turns, low superelevation and steep grades…your layout maybe better suited for a smaller engine.
On the other hand, if you’re featuring long or sweeping straightaways, relatively flat grades, 22" or wider curves, then a 4-8-4 running a fast consist of reefers, passenger or mixed freight, can be awesome.
Good luck, & Happy Railroading [:)]
Mark
I have a Bachmann Niagara 4-8-4 and it runs on the BRVRR’s 22.5 and 20" mainlines without problems. It will also negotiate my reverse loop which has 18" radius curves. I test ran the N&W J 4-8-4 #611 that Santa bought for my grandson the other night. It too had no problems on my layout. All of my turnouts are Atlas Snap-Switches and the 4-8-4s, 4-6-4s and 6-wheeled truck diesels, SD40-2s, Alco PAs, E8s and FP45s together with my Athearn and Walthers passenger cars all operate without problems.
You are usually safe if you stick with the manufacturer’s recommendations.
…all the way up to 30" these days. Finally!
Fergie, BLI says that you’ll need 24" mins for that monster. I hope you knew that?
Be a shame to have to re-do the track, cuz I know you’re not going to send the loco back…[:D]
Fergie: The BLI 2-10-4 is pretty stiff right out of the box, so don’t get discouraged if at first it decides to straighten out your curves. As you break it in, it gets looser. If I remember correctly, you’ve got a minimum 24" don’t you? You shouldn’t have any problems. Mine zips through #5 yard switches without any fuss at all, but as I said, right out of the box, the side-play in the drivers needs to loosen up.
Enjoy it–it’ll pull anything you want to put behind it.
Tom [:D]
I used to run the older Bachman 4-8-4 “J” and Daylight models. These had the pancake motors and flanges on all 4 drivers. Due to the large amount of lateral play built into the drivers they ran great on 18” radius. After they failed I put the Bowser re-power kits under them. The center two drivers do not have flanges and so they still run well on 18” radius track.
Jim