My grandson got a Bachmann 4-8-4 Trainset and we built a 22" oval on a 4x6 board with the supplied (steel) EZ track, adding a couple of switch sidings with the steel standard (#4) turnouts. All works pretty well except the 4-8-4 usually derails when trying to enter a siding.
a) the LHS guy suggested that the 4-8-4 should handle the sharp switches ok, and to look more critically to see exactly what’s happening (and not happening), and that it may be a glitch with the loco (e.g., the trailing truck not functioning correctly, etc). Comments?
b) Also, I’ve sketched out (using XTrackCAD) a modified layout that would fit dual loops in the 4x6, with dual #5 crossovers and a couple of sidings. The outer loop 22", the inner loop 18". This would require using nickle silver turnouts for the crossovers. I presume the Bachmann GE (U-23?) diesel we added would do ok on the 18" loop even if if the 4-8-4 can’t. Is it ok to use the steel track on most of the layout and mix in nickle silver? For instance, do the different metals cause corrosion problems at the interfaces? I’d like to use steel track where possible to save $, and perhaps paint black the N-S items (which come with gray roadbed) to match the steel, and/or weather and/or ballast all the track to match things up. I know the N-S track would be easier to keep clean, but the steel so far does ok as the kiddo is good at cleaning it.
I only ever used the longer #5+ EZ-Track turnouts on my first layout. I found them to need careful alignment in all planes relative to their three exits. I had fits with my Lionel Challenger until I placed a straightedge atop the rails and backlit the straightedge with my eyes level to the rails. I found a serious dip that was not evident when standing. When I shimmed and oriented the turnout to level it, the Challenger behaved.
In your case, I feel that if it is a true #4, it is probably at the extreme lower suitability for your engine. As a result, any tiny defect anywhere merely compounds the chances of you having problems. An underweight truck, axles just a bit out of gauge, gaurds on a mass produced turnout not doing what they should because of sloppy tolerances/compliance with NMRA guidelines. Anything.
I like EZ-Track. I hated their turnouts. Those turnouts are very costly, but they are crappy. The points rails were sloppily attached such that they actually rocked and tilted when a train ran ove them. That meant that, while the lead wheels may have successfully run through the frogs, a trailing axle might pick the point as more of the engine’s weight caused the point rail to tilt. In fact, with that tight turnout, your longer framed engine may be forcing the points rails to bend out of gauge due to flange pressure, thus allowing an axle or two to derail. Also, the points need a lot of dressing to get them to lie flush against the stock rails, and they also need sharpening.
Having said all that, it would help if you could describe exactly what you see happening when you get the derailments. Is it the engine or the tender? Backing through the turnout has the same undesired end? Is it a truck that derails, or a lead driver axle. Does a driver lift clear of the rails at some point and begin to let the engine frame move tangentially?
Thanks, Crandell, for the pointers. I’ll be able to observe the issues when we visit the kids in 10 days or so. There are 2 switches, left & right, so I’ll take a look with each, in both directions and multiple attempts to try to observe more exactly when the problem occurs and when it does not, with a goal of then determining the cause when the problem occurs.
I know the problems with the Bachmann turnouts well as my entire layout is made up of Bachmann nickle silver EZ-Track. On the points rails, make sure they rest flush against the stock rail. You can file the tip of the point rail slightly to make it become more flush with the stock rail. On one turnout I have the point rail wouldn’t touch the stock rail. Simply bending the end of the point rail slightly with a pliers solved this problem and the turnout has been trouble free for several years. Check the gauge of all wheels. Check to see if the coupler trip pins are hanging on the rails or catching in the roil joints on curves. The track going into and away from the turnout must be level in relation to the turnout. If the turnout is on a downhill or uphill grade then so must be the track for at least one track section. Make sure all the rail joints are correct. While the EZ-Track can be in the joiners the ends of the rails can still be off center with each other because of a defect in the track. Separate the two pieces of track and replace one of them with another piece. The piece you removed may be used elsewhere usually without incident.
I have built my current layout(with my 12 yr old) completely out of EZ track. #4 turnouts are sharp and lend themselves to derailing. Take a lot of care and line them up properly, possibly do a little filing. Above all else, go slow though the turnout as speed seems to increase the derailment rates. Due to space constraints all my turns are 18" with #4 turnouts. All of my rolling stock is 50’ (scale)or less and perform great. However, I wouldn’t go much larger. As for the gray(nickel silver) and black(steel alloy) stuff, it is all interchangeable and can be used together. There are actually a few more options in the gray roadbed including a three foot straight piece. Just take note that the black roadbed (steel) might corrode up a little faster and need more cleaning etc. I am very happy with mine so far and only have trouble with one engine derailing, but its the engine not the track. One of these days, I’ll get around to it, but I rarely use it so… The best thing I like about EZ track is when you put it together, it stays together. It also allows you to take it apart repeatedly
The LHS guy has a vested interest in saying that, but he’s right, from a certain point of view. That 4-8-4 is just BARELY able to handle 18" curves and #4 turnouts under ideal conditions. Your UBoat should perform better.
You can mix and match various track types, as long as you h