The advance photos on Bachmann’s new light 2-10-2 look promising.
Does anyone have any experience with one yet ? Any comparisons with IHC’s similar release?
[:)]
I bought two of them. They’re nicely done as far as fidelity to prototype to the basic USRA design, although I’ve seen some complaints about details not matching those of some particular roadnames. I got the undec version: straight running boards, USRA long coal tender, and Southern valve gear. They come DCC equipped. On my DC layout, one of the locos ran very nicely, while the other ran with some jerkiness. I took it apart and the mechanism, without the motor, rolled very easily across a sheet of glass, so I suspect the problem is either the motor or the idler gears. This loco is not a belt drive like the 2-8-0.
I put the good unit on a train that had been sitting on the mainline, 16 various freight cars, and tried to run it up a long 2.5% grade. It finally made it to the top after I’d removed all but 8 cars. Any of my 2-8-0s will take the full 16 cars up the same grade, although they have quite a bit of added weight. The 2-10-2 has a cast metal boiler shell, but no additional weight inside. There is quite a bit of room available for extra weight, both in front of the idler gears and behind the motor; even more if the flywheel was removed from the motor shaft. With that in mind, I used some sheet lead to make up a temporary weight shaped like an inverted “U” and draped it over the outside of the boiler. The loco easily pulled the 16 cars up the hill and could have pulled even more. With the loco halfway up the hill, I held the caboose with my hand to stop the train. The drivers slipped easily, even with the additional 10 ounces of lead atop the boiler. I did have problems in 3 or 4 areas with derailments, even though my minimum radius is 30". This may be due to rough trackwork, although none of my eight-coupled steamers experience any problems in the same areas. I also have a brass 2-10-2 with both a slightly longer total wheelbase and a longer rigid wheelbase, and this loco does not derail in these spots. The centre driver on the brass loco,however, is blind, whereas all drivers on the
Doc,
Nice review. My LHS just got these in and I was looking long and hard at
one the other day. The detailing was pretty good… I say this not being an
expert on specific details for specific roads. I didn’t have them run it on the
test track being that I have been pleased with other Spectrum locos.
When you say you had derailment problems, I assume you mean with the
drivers and not the lead or trailing trucks.
I also have 30" radius curves with, what I like to think, pretty decent trackwork.
But after reading your review, I might rethink buying one right now. I need another
steamer and this one looked like one I would like to have… maybe after I read
a few more reviews. Good luck, Dave
I’m hoping this will be my next addition to the M.S.S.S. though the 30" curves are out of the question. I’m able to run a BLI 2-10-4 on 22" but I’ve had to tweek the track. Canadian National had 65 2-10-2’s and with a little bit of super detailing I’ll be able to make a T4-a out of one of these.
That or get a unlettered version and make it a M.E.S.S.
Fergie
I have one of them. Its run a 18" radius curve with no issues and has had no derailment issues anywhere else yet. Nice and smooth running. Its a quality model from my experiences with it so far.
The derailment problems that I experienced involved both the lead truck and the drivers, usually on turnouts on curves or at a lift-out section at a doorway. I think that the problem is my trackwork, although, as I mentioned, little or no problems with other locos. The LHS has a small display/test layout and they ran one on it with no problems. That was on a 4’ x 8’, so the radius was not likely more than 22". As I said, I would generally recommend it. I am returning mine for two reasons: I don’t want to rebuild track for the sake of two engines and I’m not too fond of the loco’s appearance. The appearance is a very good rendition of the prototype - I compared it to drawings and photographs. It’s simply that, in my opinion, this loco, both prototype and model, are ungainly.
Fergie, Bachmann makes a CNR version, but it’s mostly just the paint and lettering. The loco you’re thinking of is probably the T-3-a, numbers 4200 - 4209, the 10 USRA s that the CNR acquired from the Boston & Albany. You’d need the old Kemtron vestibule cab, available from PSC, and the large feedwater heater from Cary. I’m doing that brass 2-10-2 into one for a friend; the Bachmann loco should work fine also, as all of the details, including the cab, are separate castings.
Wayne
Doc Wayne:
Thanks for the interesting review. A heavy drag 2-10-2 that can’t match a 2-8-0? Wow, that’s not good news. Several of us are going to wait to see other reviews, including from MR and RMC.
[:)]
They’re beautiful!! Mine run like Rolexes. I bought the undecs. Unfortunately, these don’t have quite the variety of ‘extras’ that some of the others have… But, at $140.00??? It’s an amazing thing. The valve gear is a pain. Bachmann advertised three versions, but I have only seen that blasted Southern Gear, except on the Seaboard ver. On the SAL, they have installed what they call a “Walschaert’s Gear”, but it is really a Baker. I guess, to make everyone happy, they’d ave to produce half-a-dozen unecorateds… or ,ore!
But, HEY! For $140.00???
Isambard, you should be aware that my Bachmann 2-8-0s are heavily ballasted, and if I were to keep the 2-10-2s, they’d get the same treatment. The intended use for them was to haul a 100 ounce coal train, with loose loads, up a very long 2.8% grade. I have 5 of the 2-8-0s, but all have been modified, so I can’t give you a comparative figure for a stock 2-8-0 on the same grade. My Athearn Mikes are comparable to the 2-8-0s also, due to similar modifications.
As I said, I think that the 2-10-2s are a good engine, but they’re just not suitable for my layout.
Wayne
Oops, did say T4-a…[#wstupid] Excuse my error[:I]
I’ve got the number board, Elesco Feedwater Heater and the brass version of the enclosed cab. Just need the engine, which won’t be for several months. I’ve realligned some sections four times over to get it right. There always seems to be one Loco that will find a bad spot and from my way of thinking unless it’s a radius issue I’ll fix it.
Though I’m not a fan of basic USRA designs I find a little bit of detail can really change their appearances. Case in point is my BLI Heavy Mike. Moved the generator from in front of the stack the front of the Cab and put an Elesco Feedwater heater in its place. World of difference!
Fergie
Doc Wayne wrote : -
Doc Wayne:
“Thanks for the interesting review. A heavy drag 2-10-2 that can’t match a 2-8-0? Wow, that’s not good news. Several of us are going to wait to see other reviews, including from MR and RMC.”
Waiting for an MR or RMC ‘review’? Since when have either of those magazines given a fair and unbiased review in the past 20 odd years?
Doc Wayne:
Thanks for that additional info. 100 ounces on a 2.8% grade is heavy stuff.
I’m looking forward to carefully evaluating the 2-10-2’s when the local LHS receives his stock.
My Spectrum 2-8-0’s are good pullers as is, however I’m interested in where you found space for additional ballast in yours.
[:)]
Rog T ,never go by the reviews from MR or RMC, I have yet to find an engine run the same has their reviewed,engines do. They will always said its great, and will pull the bricks right out of your walls if you like.
Well. I am biased with the need for pulling power. Looks like I will be passing over the 2-10-2 in favor of the PCM 2-10-0 Heavy Decapod this year. Some of my trains weigh between 5-8 pounds over 20+ cars I cannot have “Lite” engines on there…
Doc,
Just got mine, talk about having your heart sink into your chest from disappointment.
Looks great put her the track start to give it some juice it starts out running like a drunk goose. The whole time making a popping noise. Puts it on to about 25 loaded hoppers and it settles down and starts running smoother. comes into the first cruve witch is 30in. front driver derails right away,this is the same curve that i had just run my BLI C&O 2-10-4 without any problems. it did good on the 2% grade was able to pull 20 hoppers each half loaded with live lime stone finds. the popping gear sound gets better on the straight, then i slowed it down and it just stopped like the gears locked up, after a light push it took off again. So I shut it down there i didn’t want to wreck the gears. I’ll call Bachmann on Monday and see what they have to say. This is first time i’ve had touble with one of their steam engines. I hope they take care of it .
Dave
You’re fine I can’t say enough about Bachmann service.
Fergie
DAVE
Sounds like you have valve gear and drive rod linkage problem. Watch it run close and i think you will see the problem with linkage hitting. You may have to bend the linkage gently to clear each other.
Bob
Whose feedwater heater bundle and pump do you have Fergie? Also the brass cab?
[:)]
Isambard: All parts are by Precision Scale Co.
I order them through my LHS, Maritime Hobby and Crafts.
The order no. on the Brass Vestibule Cab is 31158
If you can get your hands on one of their catalogues they have a very large selection of brass products for Steam Engines
Fergie
I recently purchased the Bachmann 2-10-2. I found that the front pilot wheels will derail, at times, in rough track spots, such as occasionally at some turnouts (I use Atlas code 83) and across rail joints where there is a large gap between the the adjacent rails. At these locations, the front pilot wheels may bounce high and off the track.
I am currently investigating the problem. Possibilites include (1) the front pilot assembly is to light, (2) the screw connecting the assembly to the frame is not taunt enough, allowing to much up and down motion (?) and/or (3) the locomotive does not have enough front wieght (?). I noticed that I can easly derail the front pilot wheels on a parked locomotive by applying a gentile (cross track) push on those wheels with a tooth pick. I did the same with my Athern 2-8-2and Bachmann 2-8-0 and the pilot wheels remained on the track.
When I some get time, I plan to
(1) run the engine with the front pilot assenbly removed to see if how it runs through turnouts and rough track spots
(2) apply some Kadee washers on the screw that connects the pilot assembly to the frame to attempt to remove some of the up and down motion on the pilot assemly (Note: that the Bachmann screw will only tighten so much)
(3) smooth out my rough areas of the track.
I believe I will eventually solve the minor problem by doing a few “adjustments” here and there.
Otherwise, the Bachmann 2-10-2 is my best pulling steam engine on my level (minimal grade) layout. It easily pulled 52 frieght cars at speed ( I ran out of addition cars to apply to the consist).
Overall, I love the detail of the 2-10-2.
Bob