of bachmann spectrum’s ho scale 2-10-0 and 4-6-0, which of the two have best pulling power and traction when pulling freight or passenger cars on a layout? also which of the two turns the best on 18" curves? i want to get the steam locomotive thats going to do the best for me for my dollars.
Neither are very heavy-duty haulers, but should be OK lugging 8-10 free rolling freight cars around (mine do). But don’t worry: the real engines weren’t designed for lots of tractive effort either!
Both engines are very small engines(even that ‘Russian’ 2-10-0). I have one of the ‘large boiler’ 4-6-0 engines and mine will pull about 10-12 NMRA weighted cars on the level. Going up my 3% grade, the engine will handle about 6-7 cars. A friend has a ‘Russian’ and it pulls about the same as the 4-6-0. It really is a small engine, and when sitting next to my Spectrum 2-8-0, it is quite noticable. Both engines will go around a 18" radius curve.
Jim
If I am not mistaken, the Bachmann Dec is of the Russian variety, used primarily on the Erie and Frisco roads. They were quite powerful, with 51,000 lbs of tractive effort, and were used to haul tonnage where speed was not necessary. Their 52 inch driver wheels limited top speed to 40 - 43 mph, and operating speed was normally less than that. I don’t believe they were used in passenger service, except possibly on a mixed train where schedules did not apply.
The Ten-Wheeler would be more of a speedster and less of a hauler. I have no experience with Bachmann, but I would expect the model would reflect the abilities of the prototype. The 4-6-0 should be comfortable with short passenger trains and some freight, but not heavy tonnage.
Which is the better buy? I can’t answer, except to say that either would be a good choice depending on your needs and likes. Bachmann seems to have a pretty good reputation for good running steam power. Some have complained about difficulty installing DCC, but it can be done with a little effort. Both should handle 18" radius curves without difficulty.
At the club open house I ran a 2-10-0 with 33 cars around the modular layout…Those cars are Athearn’s 40 foot reefers with STOCK weight,stock wheels and zero grade on the modular layout.
I have a pair of the 2-10-0s. Each will pull 9 34-foot coal hoppers with load, and a caboose, on the level, only 4 to 5 up my 2% grades. Really no practical way to add any signficiant weight. That’s why I have a pair - I doublehead, which also always impresses visitors.
I have no experience with the 2-10-0.
My 52" drivered (aka “low boiler”) ten-wheeler which I use at my local club, is not a strong puller - but there again neither was the prototype! It will handle about 9-10 40ft freight cars (weighted to NMRA standards) on the level and handles 18" radius curves easily. Gradients reduce traction considerably.
Its a good engine for a short way freight or mixed - a classic shortline or branchline engine. Its a very nice looking model.
To improve the pulling power of any of your Bachmann steam locos and most other brands for that matter, simply remove the spring from over the leading and trailing trucks. This simple modification will increase the pulling power of your locos by two or four cars up any of your grades and on reasonably well laid track, not effect the running. If it does, fix your track, not the locomotive.
Reason for the improvement?
Simple physics. For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.
If the spring pushes down on the track, it is also pushing up on the locomotive with an equal force, thereby trying to lift the drivers from the railhead and therefore reducing tractive effort.
Try it, you’ll like it.
Here’s what you do there, junior:
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You check out every internet seller you can find until you have come up with the absolutely, positutely best price you can find;
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You order one of each for a comparison; then you
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keep the best one and put the other up for sale on ebay asking twice what it is worth; followed by
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waiting for some dumb cluck looking for a “steal” to pay you your asking price; and finally
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you sit back and wait along with the rest of us for your buyer to develope great trembling of remorse and posts here on the forum bellyaching about how “You just can’t trust anybody anymore; some unethical %$&&(&^%%%^%&%^&R^%$%&*) advertised a Bachmann something or other on ebay for twice what it was worth and now he won’t refund my money”! (Lest you think this is preposterous, I joined the forum 4 months ago and I ll bet dollars to donuts that in that time span I have seen fifty posts from whiners who have discovered that their “bargain” wasn’t. You can if you want to but I don’t buy used cars, particularly from private sellers, because I’ll-be-damned if I want to purchase someone elses headache.)
There is an option to step 3 above:
3a. “accidently” let the undesired unit tumble into “bottomless” canyon and then return it to the seller as “received in damaged condition”. This automatically, of course, eliminates steps 4 and 5 and will cut deeply into the profits of the tissue manufacturers because we will have nothing to weep over in sympathy. Lest you think you are pulling something over on the seller, you ain’t, - remember this: the difference between a seller and a buyer is he ain’t giving you his credit card number.
rtpoteet, I am astounded. Who would have thought that all one had to do to be self-serving was to indulge in unethical practises such as claiming goods that an honest person had sent you in good order in good faith, per your mutual contract, had been damaged in transit?
I hope your tongue was firmly in your cheek?