Thanks for your kind words, Carl.
The ballast is Ohio limestone screenings - a friend bought several tons of it for his driveway, and re-sceened some of it to make ballast for his layout, which is much larger than mine. He gave me three 10lb. containers of it, fine, medium, and coarse. I’ve almost used up the medium, so picked up a couple of 50lb. bags of Ontario limestone screenings, and am re-screening it. It is, however, a slightly different colour.
I love ballasting when it goes well - which is about 50 percent of the time. Sometimes having the base scenery in first and then ballasting after works best, sometimes ballasting first works best. One thing I’ve found late in the game is that real rock ballast (highball, arizona) is much easier to control and place. Of course it is significantly more expensive and harder to get than the Woodland Scenics nut shells.
Rock ballast and alcohol for wetting are game changers.
I remember struggling mightily with WS shell ballast and “wet water” many years ago. I don’t remember it being that messy, but what a frustrating exercise. No such problems with the Scenic Express rock ballast that I am using now. Just spread, wet down with alcohol, and add glue.
On the old SIW I experimented with all kinds of techniques to ballast the track. Finally settled on using full strenght white glue on the slopes followed by the ballast (WS but the next time I’ll use one of the real rock products) followed by wet water followed by 50/50 Water White glue mix. Did maybe 5 6 feet a night. I used the Wet water and glue on the insides. I found it to be a bit tedious no matter what method I used.
I have to get to ballasting my track. I am on a tear to cover up the plywood with greenery and trees and shrubs and in turn, ballasting will cover up the cork and it should all be good. I am not crazy about wiring or ballasting, but both are necessary for a good looking and operating layout.
I have to admit I enjoy ballasting my railroad. I have even gone as far as sending out the 44 tonner with track crew and have it follow me along the right of way. It’s my escape plan. I get to use my time machine for a few hours…
I learned from some members of an old club(75 years in one spot) to not ballast or do very much scenery until you have run your railroad in the manner you plan to continue. The reasoning is that the more time and money you put into such things the less you will want to tear them out if the track plan creates a hard to live with operating problem.
My experiences were a bit different. Originally, I used WS ballast with white glue and wet water (also tried matte medium). I found it very easy and relaxing, with no difficulties whatsoever. (The white glue method won out over matte medium based solely on cost - to install or in-use, both performed exactly the same.)
Recently, I began ballasting the upper level of my layout using real rock ballast, as shown in the photos which I posted earlier. I found it more difficult to spread, mainly because it locks together in much the same manner as does the prototype. I attribute that to its shape, which is more irregular than the WS ballast. Once spread, though, application of wet water and dilute white glue was as quick and easy as with the WS product. If you have especially hard water, alcohol may be a better choice for the wetting agent, but our Lake Ontario tap water, with just a few drops of dish detergent works well.
I do enjoy a glass of alcohol after a ballasting session, though. [swg]
Wayne it may be the screenings that you are using as opposed to commercial rock ballast? By the way the ballast looks great and I am looking forward to seeing it all dressed out.
The WS ballast wanted to lift and ball up with the “wet water”. Of course that was a whole lot of years ago. Maybe the ballast has changed, maybe I was doing it wrong somehow, who knows. But I don’t want to go back to that experience.
I ballasted around 15 ft of track and four turnouts over the weekend. Keeping the ballast out from where it doesn’t belong on turnouts is always tedious. But the system I am using is working for me- Scenic Express rock, tap it out of a little measuring cup, brush it in place with my dedicated “ballast brush”, flood with alcohol, then 50/50 Elmers in water applied with an eyedropper. Here are some of the tracks I just ballasted, down and dirty at track level.
(Yes the tree-making and gardening are still going very well, actually exceeding my wildest expectations. Pic was taken with my I-phone, no photoshop- it’s my favorite so far.)
You may be right about the screenings. I have some finer stuff from the same source and am also screening some of my own, and plan on mixing the finest of it with real dirt (pretty-much powdered) and also with some black tile grout. This will be mostly for the locomotive service area and at the roundhouse. Other siding areas will get the same, but with a greater proportion of dirt and grout, along with ground foam “weeds” and some static grass.
So far all of my ballasting has been pretty straightforward. I am aiming at late summer to early fall so there has been plenty of time for undergrowth to cover up any bare dirt to the ballast in most areas, but the ballast itself is in good shape.
Getting closer to mine tipple and yard constuction and will need to change it up then to get cinders, dirt and other debris into the mix. Just starting to consider how to accomplish what you are now planning for your service area.
Ballasting is OK, just another task to accomplish- like gluing down track or painting rails. What I don’t enjoy is trying to do something that just doesn’t want to work out for some reason.