Beginner building a 4x8

[cudaken]

Jon around the wall does not have to be fasten to the wall! I am sorry to harp on the table being 4’ wide but in the long run I think you will have the same problems as my self. My Big Boy happen to derail and I flatten a few trees reaching it.

Good luck, have fun and I hope I am not right. Track plain looks pretty good as well.

Cuda Ken

[Jon_French]

I wll look at a few other layouts and go from there, I might cut out a section and make it into more of a C shape. That way I could have access to all parts.

[SpaceMouse]

I wll look at a few other layouts and go from there, I might cut out a section and make it into more of a C shape. That way I could have access to all parts.

The benchwork should be designed to fit the layout. The layout should not be designed to fit the benchwork. In the grand scheme of things, the benchwork is among the least expensive components. Better to get the benchwork exactly what you want/need.

[cudaken]

I will second that Spaces Rat! [:D]

Jon that would be the 3rd thing I would change! Built a new section that is free standing on 3 sides. By a lot of members here pretty good sizes at 5’ foot wide and 9.5’ long. But I have yet to find a plain that does all I want in the sizes I have to work with.

If you look up my postings you could save your self a lot of head ach like I have right now. Around $500.00 in a bench still in foam and have yet to make a full run on the outer loop. But I run HO so you will be able to do a lot more in N scale.

I will add that plain is some respect is the most fun. Gives you something to look forward to and keeps the heart and brain young.

Cuda Ken

[dstarr]

Well where I have the table now it fits perfectly into the corner and the wall coming out on the side ends right when the table ends so it looks very clean. I will be moving in the next year or less so an around the walls layout is not something I want to fool with right now. I have a grabber from when I was in a wheel chair and with that I can reach a 5’ distance so I dont think reaching a derailed train will be to much of a problem. I can always move the table away from the wall If I am not able to get to something. when I am doing all of the detail it wil be away form the wall so I can get to those parts easier.

If you are moving a in year, then a 4*8 makes a lot of sense, you can take it with you. Around the walls gives you more track and less aisle in the same space, but they wind up being fastened to the walls, and they never fit the new house after your move.

I would recommend sticking with either N or HO, and not get into the narrow gauge stuff especially for a first layout. The narrow guage equipment is not as common, harder to find, a smaller selection, and more expensive than the standard gauge stuff. I would postpone narrow guage for your second layout when you have more experience. Both HO and N work, and work well, on a 48, cost is simular. If you are into building rolling stock from kits or from scratch, or kitbashing, HO better. If you want the most railroad you can fit in your 48, go with N.

I don’t see the minimum curve radius on your track plans. HO equipment has to have 18" radius curves in order for the trains to stay on the track, and you need 22" to run long equipment. N wants a 10’ min radius and 12 1/2" for bigger rolling stock. Nor do I see the max grade you are planning. 4% grades are so steep that your locomotives will have trouble hauling more than a couple of cars up them. I’d try hard to limit grades

[Chessie_System]

Here it is with a little bit of color

Jon,

What scale did you lay this track out with in RTS? I am looking to build a similar style layout and like the track plan you built. Did you plan on running this over and under or just some elevation with a cross track? I am looking to build in HO scale and want an up & over like I had as a kid for under the Christmas tree, if your layout is HO scale could you post the file with the track size’s listed?

Thanks!