Beginner building a 4x8

first off I have built several layouts with my father, but that was back when I was 8 and 10, so I have a little idea where to go with this but not alot. I am limited to a 4x8 layout and would like alot of veriety in the layout. I had really thought about going with On30 but after alot of thought I will stick with the original idea of N scale.

I have always been a fan of coal mines and the towns around them, so I would like to model after the hocking valley RR or the Ohio River & Western. The OR&W was narrow guage but I’m not a stickler on details and this will be a fiction railroad anyway. I would like two small towns and a coal minning camp. I have played around with alot of layouts and designed alot of different ones on RTS and I have came up with one that I really like, I would like your guys opinion on the layout. The only issue is I have no idea how to export it as a picture or take a screen shot on a PC(I’m a mac guy)

To take a screenshot on a PC, what you would do is press the “Prt Scrn over SysRq” open up paint, (or similar software) paste it by pressing “Ctrl+V” save it as whatever file type you’d like to, and upload it onto an image hosting site. I personally use www.photobucket.com. Hope to see some layout pics soon! And also, since you were considering On30, may I just chime in a suggestion of HOn3? HOn3 cars & stock can take some pretty tight radii. (~18 for 2-8-2’s just to give an idea) but, I warn you, it is a wee bit expensive. But, just a little bit less than On30.

First off, decied why you want a 4x8.

Is it because that’s the size of a piece of plywood?

If it is, that is not the best reasion - figure that you will need at least 18-24 inches of additional space, it to move around it.

I went with a 4x8 ( actualy 5x8 ), because my layout is going on the top of the dinning room table, and I can walk around the entire thing to get at place on the layout.

Thanks Jake, I knew how to do it back in the day but I haven’t needed to do it in such along time I just forgot it. I liked On30 because of the size and detail, the price didn’t seem too bad because I was buying less buildings/cars/engines. I thought HOn3 support was still pretty hard to find? I have several boxes of HO cars and engines from other layouts and kits over the years, I just didn’t think I would be able to fit enough on the board to suit what I’m looking for but I’m not set in my N scale ideas quite yet. I will be going to a local train show this saturday to get some ideas and finalize my ideas hopefully.

Greg-I had the 4x8 board already made into a table for another project that got scrapped. I have it up against two walls so I will only have access to two sides. Reach should not be an issue as the board is lower to begin with and it will be grading up into the two corners. The only issue I see with fixing derailed trains is the tunnels that will be up against the wall, I will have to move the layout to get to them. But that is a hassle I am willing to deal with.

and here is the layout I have came up with so far, I haven’t yet figured out an easy way to do elevations and terrain with RTS. The inside loop will be elevated, the top left corner is under a mountain and will be for staged trains. I will probably extend the track there a little more once I figure out how many cars I will be running and needing to fit. ask any questions because I’m sure the layout isn’t the easist to fallow without Heights

Here it is with a little bit of color
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

At first glance, I would say that if you flip it so that the layout lays with the upper right at the most hard to reach place, you will have less problems as most of your elevation changes and most of your turn outs will be easier to reach.

I didn’t really think of doing it that way but it would make it much easier and I shouldn’t ever need to pull it out to get at it. I will switch it up and see how I like it

well it’s not a perfect change but it does give me an idea of what it would look like

I can’t make a decent yard to save my life

alright, I fixed it a little

Actually, with the development of Blackstone Models (A division of Soundtraxx [www.soundtraxx.com] which specializes in HOn3 equipment, [www.blackstonemodels.com]) & Mountain Model Imports (A division of Precision Scale Co. [No website found, but a complete line of models can be found at www.caboosehobbies.com] -Note that the D&RGW K-28, K-36, K-37, & all C class models are due in Dec. 2008 but, since it takes two years to build the average 4x8, it wont be that bad.) makes it much easier to obtain HOn3 scale equipment.

But, this is YOUR railroad, do what YOU want, I am just offering a suggestion.

And on a subnote (I’m almost done! Don’t worry!) might I recommend XtrkCAD for layout planning, that way you aren’t just stuck with Atlas’ line of snap track. I really prefer it over RTS. Again, your choice…

–Jake-A 13 year old Massachusettsite (Not sure if that is right, I’m just used to the term Masshole…) planning a D&RGW in the 30’s…

Have you considerd an around the walls layout?

Consider cutting your 4x8 plywood into four 1x8 sections and run them around the wall. While I have a nice basement now, I have spent a lot of time in small apartments. A sectional layout in a spare room, that sat on 48" 1x2 legs permitted me to use the room for other things, yet still have a nice layout with a larger radius. As a sectional layout, I could take it apart and move it to my next residence, adding additional sections or staging yard if I had room. It also had the advantage of letting me walk around the layout with my trains. There have been a lot of plans in Model Railroader for shelf layouts. You can even download some of these track plans from this web site.

In the end it is your layout and you need to do what works best to you.

JIM

Jon, frist welcome to the site and back in the train hobby. If there is one thing I would do over it would be either.

1 Gone with a 3’ wide bench.

2 With mine being 4’ wide, move it away from the wall.

Mine is fairly low at 37" and I am 6’4". It is hard to lay rail laying on your stomach. Good detaile work is all most impossible and if there is a derailment in the back you will flatten a lot of trees to get to it.

Just because you have a 4’ X 8’ table does not mean you should use it, that is what I did. My bench started out as a L shpe 19’ x 4’ x 13’ slot car track. I used green out door carpet and was adding a few trees when the train bug bit. With slot cars the most car you can have derail is 2, I used a magnet on a stick to get a car that came off the track. That will not work with trains.

Making a sectional track that can be broken down when not is use to save spaces would be a good idea. Plus with either a L or a U shapped bench looks a little more real to me. Mine is now a G shapped.

On the moutains, use foam and plaster so they can be taken off the bench. My range is a little over 13’ long and I can pick them up, helps if there is a mess in the tunnel.

Think about what has been posted and if you have any rails yet try laying them on the back of your bench. If you fine you can do it easly then 4’ will work for you.

Cuda Ken

JF:

I think your designs look pretty good. They’re nice and uncrowded, too, with broad curves. Big mainline equipment and long trains would look quite nice, and that lets you use the heaviest N-scale equipment, which should benefit your operations.

I like this one the best:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa28/filmsomething/layout3.jpg

You might want to connect the short yard runaround and passing siding at the lower right corner, so you can combine their functions, and then turn the yard ladder 180 degrees, so the tracks branch from the middle of the runaround and then fan out to the right, not the left. This way, you can meet and run around longer trains, and also allow the yard engine to work without blocking the main.

It might also be desirable to bring the short branchline on the left side off the foreground track.
That would eliminate nearly all switches from the back, so you could push the table up against
the wall, or into a corner, and have a popout or two for the few times you need to rerail stuff.

I’d stick with the 4 x 8 and no grades for now. Personal experience tells me that somebody with a desire to model railroad but not a whole lot of time is very likely to get bogged down if he tries to get too elaborate right at the start. A 4 x 8 island is easy to build and gives a long (infinite) run for a relatively small benchwork investment. People are always saying “around the walls, around the walls”, any more, but all the same the majority of model railroads I see outside of magazines are islands.

I suspect a lot of the advantage is psychological. I can only work for a short while here and there, and with a table’s built-in limits, I can see how close I am to getting something working. I get overwhelmed when I try to build round-the-wall stuff.

If you get to dislike it later, you can always saw it in quarters and make an O or U out of it, or you could just build the table in bolted sections

Well where I have the table now it fits perfectly into the corner and the wall coming out on the side ends right when the table ends so it looks very clean. I will be moving in the next year or less so an around the walls layout is not something I want to fool with right now. I have a grabber from when I was in a wheel chair and with that I can reach a 5’ distance so I dont think reaching a derailed train will be to much of a problem. I can always move the table away from the wall If I am not able to get to something. when I am doing all of the detail it wil be away form the wall so I can get to those parts easier.

Is there any way that you can put the table on wheels? I think you’re going to regret having it against the wall. I had the idea of moving my 4x8 against the wall in the future. The only way I can do it now is to lift it from underneith. Sliding it is like having a 9.5 on the ricter scale earthquake. Just something to think about.

Here is your original fliped 180*:

In this case all but 2 turnouts will be within 36 inches of the outside edge.

EDIT: If you leave a 12-18 inch space between the left side of the layout and the wall, you could possably slide between the wall and la out to reach the other two turnouts, without having to move the layout.

You said you’re not a stickler for keeping it narrow gauge, but I thought I’d expand on Jake’s info based on this peculiarity of your area if you weren’t completely set on N scale…

MMI and Blackstone will be releasing HOn3 C-19s (2-8-0s) next year. While Baldwin sold most of these out west, one was bought by the East Broad Top as their #7. The EBT sold this loco to the Ohio River & Western in 1913, scrapped in 1931. So even a particular western design has a home in the east…

There is more and more ready-to-run HOn3 stuff (based on the western prototypes) being produced, too. I’d personally like to see more eastern stuff, and Train & Trooper seems to be looking into that…although their smaller production runs mean higher prices.

I think you stand a better chance of an entertaining trackplan (and keeping costs down) if you stick with N, but just some food for narrow gauge thought…

I will consider the wheels, I am still trying to decide on the scale I am going to use.

Edit- you guys are too quick for me, I will look into the HOn3 a little more. I’m guessing it runs on nscale track?

Actually, HOn30 (which would be 2.5’ track gauge) runs on N scale track…HOn3 (3’ gauge) runs on its own type of track. MicroEngineering and Shinohara make HOn3 turnouts and some decent flex track that you can order pre-weathered (the rails are at least).

A grabber will play heck on the detail parts of a nice locomotive or piece of rolling stock. I’ve used grabbers before in my warehouse and I’ve seen a lot of things fall.