I am finally starting a 13x24 foot HO layout after decades of not having one due to working. I had a layout when I was young and used 2x4’s for benchwork, legs, etc. I have several Kalmbach books on benchwork and they all indicate 1x4’s with 2x3 legs, 1x2 L shaped legs. I planned to use 2x4’s for all of it since they will hold more weight than 1x3 and 1x4’s. Has anyone used just 2x4’s for their entire benchwork. Are there any drawbacks to all 2x4 construction. I am more comfortable using 2x4’s than other lumber. I plan using 1x4 for upright areas for different levels, mountains, etc.
Nothing wrong with using 2x4’s esp if you have some on hand.
The downside; the weight. Makes the layout very heavy. Need more support for the extra weight. Might be a hard thing to move if you need to. The extra cost. 1x is cheaper than 2x4’s
2x4’s are just plain heavy and overkill for holding up a layout. However, if you cna find straight enough ones, there’s no problem using them.
I can’t find straight 2x2’s anywhere around here, so I made my legs with a 1x3 and a 1x2 L shape, and used a short peice of 2x2 at the bottom of each one to provide a palce to screw in a leveling foot.
If I had a table saw I’d probably consider using 3/4" birch plywood cut down to make dimensional pieces, even though this means a corner block to fasten the crosspieces to the sides.
–Randy
I’m in the same stage too. Just came up from the basement… 16x30 area. I’m thinking 2x4’s for legs and 1x4 open grid in most areas. Gonna be a busy and fun project. If I can figure out how to post a pic I will. Thanks , Andy
This maybe the best suggestion if you have a tablesaw. It can be quite challenging to find anything straight at the home center.
Here you go:
How to post pictures to a thread
I am building a large basement layout (30’x 60’) and use modular dominoes constructed with 1 x 4 frames cut from 3/4" plywood and 1/2" plywood for the tops. I bolt the sections together with 1/4" bolts.
I use 2"x2" for the legs. I get the 2"x 2" at my big box store (Lowes or Home Depot) and have to sort through the stack to get straight pieces. I cut the 8’ 2x2 in half making my layout 48" high. The 2x2 legs friction fit into pockets on the dominoes. The layout is very sturdy.
I have a lot of experience building with wood. Using 2x4s is way overkill in this app. You will likely have to sort to get them, but 1x3 material, supplemented by 1x2 lumber, is plenty sufficient. I did use some 1x4s for the web on a couple of my long L-girders (~15’).
If you’re into overkill, the place to do it is the sub-roadbed. I use 3/4" plywood and do not regret the slight extra cost and hassle. 1/2" is adequate (if you are careful to properly support it with enough risers), but 3/4" combined with solid 1x3 underpinnings is a great combination.
Another good tip to build strong benchwork is to use screws in everything. I do it because I’ve got a bad shoulder, so use the square drive ones that avoids the need for extra pressure to drive the screw. That would all “drive” you nuts in the old days, but with drywall screws and cordless drills it is so much easier and better than before. Highly recommended is a second drill to use making pilot holes for the screws. When you’re done, your benchwork will be plenty strong enough.
AJZ…I agree with you from what all I have read on yours and the other posts. I have revised my thinking and like you and the others will change the open grid to 1x4’s but will use the 2x4’s for legs. I was worried about strength of 1x4’s vs. 2x4’s but it seems the 1 by’s are the way to go. I’m not going to have full sheets of plywood laying on top but strips of various widths so it won’t be a really heavy layout. Hopefully I can get 3 levels, 2-3 tracks on main one , 1 track on secons and third, if a third does get in the planning stage. Guess I can change my attitude and mind on some things contrary to what the wife says. Hopefully I can use the rest of my retirement for the layout as in the first four years of it I’ve been so busy I have just bought trains but not had time to build anything. I have to do it now or it won’t happen. Thank you and the rest for getting me back on track.
The other thing is that 2x4’s used as the longitudinal pieces and crossmembers will cover up twice the space underneath than 1x lumber - meaning more potential to interfere with undertable switch machines and so forth.
1x4 grid benchwork is strong enough to climb on, no worries there.
–Randy
You do not want to use 2x4s. They are too heavy, and they are a construction product not at all suitable for furniture or cabinet construction. And you are, after all, building a table.
1x2s and 1x4s are all you need or want. You have to work with these things, and it is easier to drill a hole through a 1x4 than it is a 2x4. And you probably do want to pass cables through them. One one layout I built the table with members 12" apart. This is not good enough. They need to be at least 16 or 18" apart so that you can get a power drill between one member and the next.
Here are some pictures from my web site showing how I did my construction. The first pictures show the preparation of the lumber which came from a building that we had torn down and was stored in our barn for many years. It is best not to buy lumber if you have some in your barn. The old lumber is far better.
ROAR
Or you can be like me, and build your entire 16x6 layout benchwork with leftover wood that was in the garage, with the exception of the plywood. Of course that means the legs are 4x4’s and the frame is a combination of 1x6 and 2x4’s, but on the upside, it is sturdy enough to hold a fat man like myself on it with no worries.
JW
I am currently building an around the walls layout in an 15’x13’ room. I built a wall out of 2x4 to include hidden staging and a small work bench, so the layout is 10x13. All 1x4, 2x2, and 1x2. I would not/never use 2x4 unless it was free…but even then, its not appropriate furniture grade wood, and…it seems to me that it would create much additional , and unneeded work.
The books are correct. Take your 2x4’s and rip them into 2x2’s for the legs. 1x4’s are more than enough for benchwork, 1x2’s for bracing.
I was brought up using 2x4"s, then read lynn wescotts book on building Model Train Benchwork. Currently building a 26’ x 42’ around the wall O scale in my nephews using L girder, nothing heavier than 1x4 and 2x2’s. With plenty of proper 1x2 bracing, it is more than sturdy. I’ll never do the 2x4 thing again. Just my expierance. Good luck
David
Gidday, I 'd go along with the other saying that using 4 x 2 timber is over kill, I use 4 x 1 framing and 2 x 2 legs. However YOU have to be happy with how YOU go about things. That said when I first joined the club we had a “portable” ??? Marklin HO layout whose constructors had used 6 x 2 framing. We nicknamed it the “Bismarck”.
Have Fun.
Cheers, the Bear.
After using several types of material in my layout, my next one will be built out of 3/4" plywood ripped to what ever size is called for. Of course I have a table saw. I would not trust the Big Box stores to rip straight pieces.
Plywood stays straight as apposed to dimensional lumber. I make the legs “L” shaped, Glue and air nailed the joint. (Don’t have an air nailer)The long paneling nails would work , they are thin so you don’t split anything and have ring shank. If you are screwing in to the end of a joist, pre-drill before screwing. If you look at the leg to beam joint you can see there is a lot of strength in it. The legs are rigged. I shim the table level then drop a 2 X 2" inside the leg and drywall screw it in place. No need for levelers and if need be can be re adjusted.
I make, what could be called a “C” beam and if one wants “neatness” can lay your wires inside the “C”.
This plywood (for cost consideration) is not cabinet grade but was a very good for smoothness and density
Just my [2c]
Merry Christmas.
Lee
I used mostly 2"x4" lumber for the legs and support of the layout, although some of it is 2"x6" and 2"x8". Somebody [:-^] “accidentally” ordered too many 2"x4"s when building his own house, although the larger stuff really was left-over. While it would normally be considered overkill, most of the under-layout area is used for storage of non-train-related stuff, including household items, lumber, and tools. Much of this has fully-framed (16"o/c) 2"x4" shelving with plywood surface. Most of the support legs are also 2"x4", although some are 4"x4", and all of it is lag-bolted to the wall studding. The lumber, for the most part, is sized to match its intended use. However, 2"x4"s and other dimensional lumber are generally unsuitable for the actual tabletop: most aren’t all that straight, and none are sufficiently dry to remain stable after you’ve added roadbed and track.
I used mostly 1"x4" select pine for my open grid top, and hand-picked it to get the straightest pieces with the fewest knots. Any 1"x2" used (the second level, when it’s finally built, will be framed in 1"x2" and covered with 1/2" plywood) is also “select grade”, and is straight, knot-free, and dry). Everything was put together with screws, in manageable section lengths, then lifted onto the supporting benchwork and screwed into both the benchwork and the wall studs.
Even though I don’t own a table saw, I’d consider building open grid in ripped 3/4" plywood, but that would be mainly a cost option.
Don’t make the mistake of using cheap 1"x2" or 1"x4" strapping lumber - it’s simply ripped 2"x4"s, with lots of knots, sap, and missing or irregular edges.
Wayne
Having been in the construction business and this hobby all my life, I have a few thoughts about building bench work.
Buy the best lumber you can. Rather than making lumber from plywood, I prefer to use clear 1x Poplar.
It is better than pine, readily available these days and costs only a little more than the best pine.
It is stronger, straighter (and will stay that way) is much nicer to work with.
I approach bench work similar to cabinet work, but I have a nice table saw, chop saw, and lots of other power tools.
As for installing screws, the best tool is a flip bit or other interchangeable tip system that allows one drill to quickly do both pilot drilling and driving the screws - makes more sense than buying two drills.
2x4’s are framing lumber, they are not milled to close tolerances and even the best of them are seldom very straight/true for this kind of work.
Sheldon
WHY?
Unless it’s going in your living room are you have a lot of money to waste?
Yes, I have built cabinetry and trim work as a business for high end customers for close to 40 years.
Merry Christmas
Lee
I have quick cnage bits in my drill/driver - and I will not do any more construction without getting a second one. It’s SO much handier to have one with the drill and one with the screwdriver bit. Trying to change bits with one hand while holding the joint with the other - major fail.
–Randy