Best HO Starter set for an adult?

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
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Hi all. Let me clarify my question a bit.

Some time ago i tried to get back into model railroading as an adult and the garden trains really caught my eye so i started acquiring G scale cars and a engine and some track but boy is it expensive! Sadly i’m no longer abler to consider a garden railway as originally desired. i though i might try to run a G scale track around my living room but again it’s very expensive and I wouldn’t be able to have any scenery. So i am rethinking scale.

I like the O scale size but not a big fan of the three rail track and O is still kind of expensive. I considered S scale because its a good match for hotwheels and matchbox cars , but S scale seems just as expensive as G scale! N scale is a bit too small for my eyes so that brings me back to the tried and true HO scale.

However, i’m not sure where to begin. I do prefer quality but again limited by budget.

All thoughts, suggestions and links appreciated.

Regards

Dave

2

Dave,

Starter sets are convenient but don’t necessarily equate to “quality”. Personally I would rather piece-meal components to get quality and you might be able to spend less in doing so. What is your budget?

I don’t know how often you frequent eBay, if at all, but you can find some pretty amazing deals there on new items - even quality ones. The most helpful thing for us at this point would be what you envision as an optimal “starter set” - i.e. what type of locomotive (steam or diesel and era), track type (e.g. big loop, figure-8, siding) and sound. For now, DC would be the least expensive and logical way to go.

Tom

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Have you considered On30? You can get things fairly cheap on e-bay and you could even use HO track instead of the more expencive On30 track.

4

I agree with Tom, most train sets are junk. There used to be a hobby shop in Brunswick, ME called Ask Your Mother which closed around 1990. He would make up his own train sets for beginner customers. He would include a loop of sectional track, a decent quality locomotive (like Athearn BB), 4 or 5 rolling stock and an MRC power pack. The cost was slightly higher than a train set, but the quality and customer satisfaction was way higher.

5

I picked this up at the Timonium train show for $8. Central Valley sprung trucks, steel wheels and kadee couplers. Go to a train show but don’t go smorgasboard on your engine roster.

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With a train set, you get everthing you need to make trains run. Running trains is important, the hobby spirit can wane if various things just sit on your shelf, unable to run because something is missing.

Read some Model Railroader mags. Any maker (Athearn, Bachmann, and others) advertising in MR makes decent stuff. Any train sets offered in the Walthers catalog (your hobby shop will have a copy) are decent. The truly low end sets offered for $29.99 are children’s toys which don’t look very good, and don’t last very long. But the medium price sets in the $100 area from a known maker are fine.

A train set gives you an oval worth of track, locomotive and rolling stock and a low end power pack. You can buy all this stuff separately and be up and running. It will probably cost you a bit more than a train set cause the only power packs for sale are high end MRC packs which go for $50 or more. The low end train set power packs are not sold separately, and probably cost the train set maker only $10.

For train sets, be aware of couplers. The old horn-hook coupler (one piece plastic molding) is going away. Knuckle couplers with a coil spring holding the knuckle closed are the wave of the future. You can convert horn hook to knuckle couplers, but I would want the seller to give me a break on price for my trouble.

Be aware of track. The standard sectional track (Snap-Track) is just rail and plastic tie strip. All brands intermate. There are a couple of makes of fancier sectional track the comes with a molded plastic ballast strip under the ties. The various brands of fancy track do NOT intermate. If you get into such, check that your vendor or someone, carries more track of the same brand. You will want more track to make a bigger layout, and you will want turnouts for spurs and sidings. I prefer the o

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I’ve been modling in HO since 1951 and I agree with the guys above! You might try looking at a starter set to see what it includes, make a list of what makes up the set and cruise eBay for quality items on your list.

I personally would not go with sectional track if you have the ability to assemble flex track, much more versatile.

As mentioned above you can pickup a much better power pack on eBay new or used than what comes in a starter set.

As Tom said it might even cost less than a starter set.

Mel

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
&

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Though most train sets are junk, not all are. Some of the major manufacturers offer entry-level train sets that include quality components, even if they’re not of the highest detail. While, as a Model Railroader representative, I can’t recommend particular brands, I’m sure others here on the Forum will let you know what brands I’m talking about. [8D]

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Agreed. Ten years ago I picked up an MRC Railpower 1370 on eBay for $20. A good, basic power pack but far better than anything found in a starter set.

Tom

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Hi Dave!

I don’t know what your current level of knowledge is so I apologise if I’m telling you stuff you already know.

You have two basic choices - a starter set, or buy some stuff individually.

Starter sets will get you up and running in no time but, unless you buy extra track and some turnouts, you might get bored pretty quick just watching your train go around in a circle or a figure ‘8’.

Buying individual pieces allows you to build your trains the way you want them. You control which railroad(s) you run, what type of engines and what type of cars. You can also start out with better quality equipment in terms of both rolling stock and power supply systems.

If you are going to buy your rolling stock individually you need to make yourself aware of what to watch out for. If you can afford new stuff then you will be pretty safe. If you want to save some money there are literally thousands of used model train items available on eBay, as well as new stuff. (There was a recent discussion on how to buy safely on eBay so I strongly recommend looking that up.)

Henry showed an example of a good used boxcar buy. It was a good buy, not because of the particular boxcar (although there was nothing wrong with it), but because it had been upgraded by the addition of Kadee couplers and metal wheel sets. Good couplers are essential, steel wheels not so much but both items added value to the car. However, that doesn’t mean that the car is a guaranteed good runner. The couplers may not be at the right height or they may be drooping, and the car might need some weight added. You will need to learn how to correct those types of problems. Also, the car is an older Athearn ‘Blue Box’ (commonly referred to a a ‘BB’). They are usually pretty inexpensive but their detailing isn’t up to newer standards.

Locomotives are another area where you need to be aware of what to avoid. If somebody is asking $20.00 for a powered locomotive it won’

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As a way to enter or re-enter the hobby, there really is nothing magic about a trainset per se (meaning track, train, and power in a box), and there never really was. Maybe there is or was a modest price break for sets, assuming you actually wanted all the stuff that came with it. I always thought the main purpose for trainsets was that it made a nice, one-box, wrapable gift for another, convenient to purchase and give (and return lol).

I think the Walthers And Atlas HO trainsets are reasonable in quality/price/ availability. Whether that opinion meets Steve Otte’s knowing wink or not I do not know. [angel]

Walthers and Atlas have both made a decision to brand their trains with levels indicating entry level, and more advanced. And the pricing follows suit.

One advantage to HO is the amount of used, but nonetheless good quality, stuff available at swap meets and elsewhere (with the caveat that there is also a huge amount of awful HO available at swap meets). If you decide to go the DCC route rather than DC (a decision which in some ways is easier for a person just starting out) the used offerings are a bit less, but still out there. I even see DCC systems at swap meets, obviously not the newest and most wonderful, but still, complete systems. After all some guys are now on their second or third DCC system.

Dave Nelson

12

ModelTrainStuff shows to have train sets from MTH, Bachman, Walthers, Athearn, and Kato. IMHO, the Kato set is the best of the bunch because it comes with a 4 x 7 oval of Kato unitrack. There are a couple of good quality engines to choose from, and modern intermodal cars; if you are inclined to model the modern state of affairs. The sale price quoted once you place the item in the shopping cart is very reasonable, for what you get. The Athearn and Walthers sets are nice, as well. I don’t have experience with MTH, and Bachmann is nice, but I don’t like their EZ track. Just my opinion.

13

Having been a long time proponent of On30, the rose is off the bloom commercially. Bachmann appears to be winding down their offerings.

I know Bachmann is bringing out the Mogul with Sound and DCC but $300 street is a bit steep.

All that is left are odd locomotives that no one really wanted in the first place either strange prototypes, both 4-4-0’s or are too big the 2-6-6-2, 4-6-0. Yes, I know because I own them all.

Looking at the outlets the supply of cars is dwindling.

Before you throw brickbats have been promoting On30 a long time:

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/

At this point commercially the bubble has burst.

Harold

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Hello all,

Welcome back to a great hobby Dave no matter what scale [#welcome]!

I too returned to this great hobby a few years ago. I knew I would model in HO.

Before making your first purchase(s) I suggest attending a train show, if there are any in your area. The nearest shows to me are 1-1/2-hours, each way, but well worth the time.

My one piece of advice would be buy a DCC starter set right off the bat.

Many folks on these forums run DC. Many more run DCC.

I began with DC and then eventually converted to DCC. In hindsight I should have gone DCC in the first place.

Bachmann offers a two locomotive starter set with their introductory DCC system.

Hope this helps.

15

Well there’s the rub.

Most train sets are lower quality. After all, if higher quality cars are $35-$50, engines $100+, power packs are $50-$100 then you have to figure those aren’t in a $150 train set.

Only you know how much you can spend, but I suggest you get a decent quality diesel like Kato or Athearn (there are others) and a decent power pack from MRC. Add in some Atlas code 100 track (decent quality, low price). Then add cars as you can afford them, keeping in mind that cheaper cars can be upgraded operationally with better wheelsets or trucks and couplers down the road.

OTOH if cost is real important, get a Bachmann set and enjoy. I started with a Tyco set (long considered junk) and had a lot of fun with it.

As others have noted, you can get some good deals at train shows. But of course you have to know the worth/quality of what you’re looking at.

Good Luck

Paul

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Hi there. I would say it depends whether there is a good hobby shop in your area. If that’s the case, see if someone there can combine something that fits your needs and budget. Combining stuff that is on sale can make a difference. But the real gain might be the advice you get from the person… Otherwhise, a train set could be a low cost solution. Walters offers decent ones.

Let us know what happens!

Simon

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Research, and THINK about what you will want your layout and collection to look like before you start buying. Steam, or Diesel? the transition era can combine these, with late steam/early diesel, the change didn’t happen over night. What Era? What Road names interest you? Block control(track voltage/polarity) or Command Control?(DCC, or MTH’S DCS, in HO). What Scale/Gauge? Defining these issues before you start buying WILL SAVE you money very quickly.

On a PIECE/PIECE basis, HO may be less expensive, but on a LAYOUT basis, it can be as, or more expensive than O Gauge. Most of us Design/build a layout to fit a specific SPACE. The Scale you choose to build with in THAT space, will define to a degree what you model in it. In the same SPACE, HO(and even more so in “N” and “Z” scales) it will take more track, switches, Locomotives, cars, buildings, etc to fill/complete a layout. In O Gauge, you will need fewer locomotives, cars, buildings, Etc, to build a layout, in the same SPACE, but will be a different layout. In the end, a YYxZZ layout will cost about the same(roughly) regardless of scale, just be different modeling styles.

Granted, a specific layout PLAN, in HO will be less expensive than the SAME LAYOUT PLAN in O Gauge, but FEW of us have the space to build the layout of our dreams, in whichever scale most appeals to us.

“N” scale is more about, modeling more expansive scenery, “O” gauge/scale, is more about modeling the TRAINS, HO fits somewhere in between, being able to still get a fair amount of scenery in a reasonable space, with details still reasonably visible.

In “O” the details are more visible, and the trains have a presence, that just isn’t there, smaller than “S” scale/gauge. The center rail all but disappears on a well sceniced layout(MY OPINION, ymmv). I have heard MANY say that they “Could NEVER live with that 3rd Rail”, but then go on to describe, with a gleam in th