Best masking tape for diesel painting?

I have used blue painters tape with good results when building and painting structures, but have been a bit hesitant with using it for painting diesel shells. I got some cheap stuff at Hobbytown, but in practicing with it, it resulted in paint bleed, even when I used a blunt tool to press the edges down. I went to the last real LHS today in my area and got some very expensive masking tape by Model Master. They did not stock Tamiya, although I could order it online. Anyone use the ModelMaster stuff ? Please tell me how it works for you… And, what really IS the best masking tape to use on diesel shells??? Thanks, Cedarwoodron

I use regular masking tape, but first apply it to a sheet of glass where the factory edges can be cut off, as they can get nicked or dinged, collect fuzz, or get dried-out adhesive due to exposure to air. When applying the tape, burnish it around details as you apply it, not after it’s in place - burnishing it afterwards stretches the tape, which, while you’re busy burnishing the second side, returns to its normal un-stretched state. [banghead]

Wayne

I’ve got a few rolls of Tamiya tape in different sizes I use on cars I build. It works great.

Cedar,

For the “best” Tamiya is an excellent product:

http://www.mech9.com/blog/2011/04/tamiya-masking-tape/

I also use 3M’s blue fine line vinyl tapes, but they’re considerably more expensive

http://www.autobodysupply.net/Blue-fine-line-tape-p/3-m06405.htm

Ironically I have a roll of the Model Master stuff that my wife’s cousin loaned me so that I could paint and decal his Proto SD60 into the BNSF “pumpkin” scheme. Here it is below:

(the orange looks strange because of the strong florescent light color in my room, which I plan to change to a daylight-white color once I finish my layout)

I’ve been working on it slowly between my metalizer projects. I got only a tiny bit of bleed through on two spots that’s easily removed. Take your time and apply the tape as you would for your structures. Burnish the tape and carefully check the entire masking job just before you pull the trigger on the airbrush.

I’ve been using 3M’s blue painters tape for years in my custom painting work. When using any masking tape. you should always lay it down on a piece of glass or mirror, and cut a fresh edge with a new sharp razor blade. Masking tape has a fuzzy edge you have to get rid of for a clean sharp edge. Then as others have said, you should burnish the edges of the tape around the model, paying special attention to rivets and other details. One way to assure that there is no bleed-under, is to paint (seal) the edges of the tape with the underlying color before continuing on with the next color, that way if there is some bleed-under, it’ll be the same color and be invisible.

There’s a change in practice I will adopt immediately! I have been using a green plastic cutting mat with a railroad scale ruler to cut masking tape previously. I will use a glass surface from now on. Thanks to all if you for your help and advice. Cedarwoodron

A piece of glass and Frog Tape.