I am looking for a realistic weathered track look. I have read of first applying gray spray paint followed by a wash of India Ink diluted in 70% rubbing alcohol(2 tsp to 1 pint). A two step process.
I have tried this method on some test track with mediocre results.
What works for the forum?[8D]
In the January MR, page 28, Lionel Strang offers his method of painting tracks with a suggestion to protect the rail tops. you may find it useful.
I use white paint with the India ink and have had good results
I have a webpage discussing the method, I have found that white artist gesso works well. The grey paint does not work.
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/4x8/weathered_track/
Hope that helps[:D][:D]
Harold
Visit the Pacific Coast Air Line Railway
For protecting the tops of the rails you can:
An old, easy method is to apply petroleum jelly to the rail tops. Carefully wipe it off with alcohol after the paint has dried.
Another trick is to apply 3M 1/8" Fine Line masking tape to the rail tops. No clean up hassle after painting is finished.
To add a bit to Antonio’s post, I like to use a cloth with a plastic-safe oil on it. Just wipe the oil to the top of the rails, paint, and then wipe off top. It doesn’t need but a film of oil to keep the paint from adhering to it.
REX
How about this HO model track:
(click to enlarge)
I discuss how to do this ballasting and weathering in my free online scenery clinic, here:
http://mymemoirs.net/model-trains/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=1315#1315
My track ballasting and weathering technique is also the cover story in MR’s new How to Build Realistic Layouts special issue, due out in May 2006. I also provided a 6 minute step-by-step video that MR will be making available for viewing to go with the article.
(This cover photo was taken on my HO Siskiyou Line layout)
I think Kalmbach is now offering this special issue for sale here:
https://secure.kalmbach.com/AdvantageWeb/eCirc/Offer.aspx?PromotionCode=IA5BMM1
Joe,
Fantastic ballasting job. What size and make is your ballast? The stone size looks perfect. Like the darkened ties/ ballast between the rails.
Bob K.
Bob:
That’s Woodland Scenics fine gray ballast:
http://www.discounttrainsonline.com/Woodland-Scenics-Ballast-Blended-Fine-Gray-Color-32-oz-with-Shaker/item785-1393.html
The darkened ties comes from observing prototype mainline trackage and weathering the model trackage accordingly. Treat the track just like you do any other model, with the proper painting and weathering and it will look right, as the photo demonstrates.
By the way, that’s MicroEngineering flex track - code 83 for the main, and code 70 for the siding. ME track looks excellent with very tiny spikehead and tie plate detail. If you want track that will photograph well, ME track is about the best there is once you ballast and weather it. It looks even better than handlaid, IMO.
This is directed at Joe, but I’m looking for other thoughts. How do you transition from the main line to branch and sides when it comes to weathering? I have a number of branches and sidings that I’d like to paint differently like Joe depicts, but I’m not sure where the branch color should begin or what the best (most prototypical) blending approach should be. It seems to me the branch coloring wouldn’t just start, that it would blend some way.?.
-Tom
I’ve only just started to “compete” with Joe on track information in this forum (how am i doing Joe? Is my stuff useful?)… BUT I suggest that you take a look at my profile and all the stuff in that ,that I’ve written on ballast and track. Hope it’s useful. (if there isn’t a pile of stuff there please let me know).
It should give you some ideas about changing from main to branch (or yard, or siding, or industrial…) track…
Put as briefly as I can…
You need to consider what you are thinking of as the recent history of the track. If nothing much has been done for some while there will be differences between the tracks but it will be more blended (in colour if not material type/size) by local weathering effects. At the other end of the spectrum the differences will stand out massively.
Where new work has gone in… on whichever track… it may be on a siding or spur that has got so bad that it has had to be replaced, is actually completely new or has a new traffic that has called for and will pay for it to be upgraded. Where this work has been done it will have a distinct start point along the track AND sideways across the track (adjacent roads will still have their existing (older but not necessarily old) ballast/track.
Oh yes,… just because ballast is renewed/replaced it doesn’t mean that the track will be. It may be… or not… or in a few months. Where brand new track is put in it
Oh yes!
Forgot to mention… look for my comments on maintenance work on switches and crossovers. New work on a branch or spur will not USUALLY intrude into the main (except where it is a new location and the switch has had to be inserted into the main… as noted elsewhere the new ballast will run either side of the new switch to ensure that all the track through the workm is well supported).
It will help me if you ask questions that come to mind.
Have fun!
And more…
try looking at highway surfaces… you will see distinct breaks where one authority gives way to another, repairs, new additions, old bits, damage, one effect ocross or cutting off another…same happens on railroad track.
David - Thanks for the great information. I looked in your sig, but didn’t find anything that looked promising. Is your information contained in posts here? The search capability lacks a certain quality, so finding older material is difficult at best.
-Tom
Someone who knows how this thing works help us out please?
Try looking under anything with track / ballast / switches for a start… if you can stand a long E mail or several E mail me… I think that I’ve saved most of the threads I responded to on track. Be warned…there’s a lot of it! [8D]
In looking at all the real track I’ve seen, the rails are more of a brown than grey. I use earth brown camoflouge paint (Krylon or Rustoleum). Or Floquil roof brown or rail brown works if you want to airbrush it. I second Joe on the ballast. WS fine grey or grey blend works the best. Cheap weathering chalks work great to add color to little used spurs.(after everything is cemented down)
Seeing as no answer so far to Q for help above… here’s some copied stuff from my files…
I don’t think that any one has said…
All the main Nickel Silver Rail makes are pretty much ok… you can pretty much mix them together.
BUT… if you mix rail size… code 100 in your staging tracks and code 83 in the scenic bit (or diferent rail sizes between main and yards…
YOU MUST… ensure that the top of the rail head is at the same height (and will stay there) at the joins.
I’ve seen short lengths of conversion track in Walther’s catalogue. You can also shim the lower height track up to meet the higher.
You ALSO get differences in tie thickness between makes (and maybe within some makes between grades). This means that you have to take the same action to avoid problems.
I would put a length (More than a loco/longest car) between any rail /tie height change and any switch or diamond… it would keep life more simple.
Nearer what you’re looking for…
Why are you mixing such different colours of ballast?
It could happen… but usually a RR would get all of it’s ballast in any one area from pretty much one source.
Ballast is HEAVY so it is usually only moved as far as it has to be.
It might come from a number of quarries but these wold be likely to be in much the same rock type unless you are in an area of very variable geology… you might get a mix of something like a hard limestone with a volcanic intrusion nearby… but I don’t know US geology (It’s hard enough working out which way round your country is… we (well I) think north-south… the USA goes an awful long way east-west).
Another possibility is a shift from furnace slag ballast to limestone. This would be blue/black to white becoming grey… but the blue black could be all sorts of colours including red depending on the origin of the slag.
I’m not saying you’re wrong… just trying to help out with
Try the thread “Show me your Ballasting” of Oct 31 05
Then… “weathering Rails” of 3 Nov 05
You might like the information from several people on this thread…
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43579