I want to make servo mounts using aluminum c channel (thickness = 1/16") and need to drill a 1 mm hole for the actuator wire. I have the appropriate bits but am wondering the best way to drill such fine holes. A pin vise would be least expensive but have not used one before and the job requires a “true, round hole”. Any suggestions? A mini drill press would do the trick but rather pricey for only drilling 20 holes, but would look at that option if a good reasonably priced one is available… Thanks!
If you have a small centre-punch (or a small nail with a smooth point - not like the larger nails which have flat-sided tapers) you could mark the soft aluminum to create a starting point using a light tap on the nailhead. A pin vise, suitably-sized to your 1mm drill bit will work well in aluminum.
However, if you’ve not used a pin vise, it might be advisable to practice with a somewhat larger drill bit (less likely to break), perhaps in wood.
Some pin vises have a top which rotates - the idea behind that is that you use the palm of your hand to apply pressure (suited to the size of the drill bit being used), while the thumb and forefinger of your same hand rotate the pin vise (that top doesn’t actually do the rotating, but simply allows the pin vise and drill bit to rotate, without wearing a blister in the palm that’s holding it.
The majority of my pin vises do not have the swivel top, so I hold the pin vise using my thumb and two forefingers, with the butt end near (but not usually touching) my palm.
I’m usually drilling in styrene, which is a little softer than aluminum, but is often much thicker. Once I got the hang of it, I could drill holes of almost any reasonably small size for hours without hand fatigue.
I did sorta discover a work-around, though, using a small device meant to hold small drill bits…I wouldn’t call it a pin vise, although it does work in a similar manner. The bonus is that it’s a perfect fit for my battery-powered impact driver.
If I need to drill tiny holes in materials harder than styrene, I simply place the impact driver in the centre drawer of my work desk, steadying it with one hand, while running at its slowest speed, then bring the item to be drilled in contact with the slow-turning drill bit…this manuever requires two steady hands to prevent breakage, which is very prevalent with small drill bits.
Here’s my smallest pin vise, with a #79 drill b
Five star reply! Excellent description, discussion, and illustrated! Most helpful to me and anyone else searching for this topic! All the best Wayne!
Thanks, Rick, glad to be of help. I’m sure that others will chime in with their methods, too.
Wayne
Would a drop of light oil help or be unnecessary with this small of a bit while slow drilling aluminum?
I can’t really comment with an opinion, as I’ve never tried using oil while drilling. The drill bit is considerably harder than the aluminum, so I’d guess it to be an unnecessary practice…it probably wouldn’t hurt to try it if you wish, though.
Wayne
What you are thinking of with oil is a specific oil the aids in drilling by reducing heat and friction while allowing the bit to bite. It is called cutting oil. Or tapping oil. It also helps the life of the bit and eases jamming. Which for these small bits equals snap. I would recommend it but not totally necessar for what you are doing. They do sell amounts as small as 1 ounce. I am used to using it for all the metal work I do.
I find when using pin vise if you hold it just above the collar to stabilize it and twist with the fingers of my other hand, I don’t snap as many bits because I am holding it steady that way. Keep the amount of exposed bit from the chuck as short as possible. Keep pressure light and even. micro mark has pin vises that have a corkscrew pattern so a collar that engages it when slid down the shaft will spin the bit allowing better co trol over it. I found a big difference in the number of snapped bits being less likely with it. Once I got used to it.
shane
Aluminum is soft so can grab at drill bits. Cutting oil might reduce that tendency. Ordinary oil would be counter productive. Drilling by hand involves very low torque with very precise bit control, with sufficient practice. I always drill by hand when making models. Power is handy but much harder to control in such small scale situations.
I recommend the pin vice with the sprung helix drive. Very handy.
There are two challenges: keeping the drill bit vertical and keeping the C channel firmly square to the bit. I’m curious why you need a precise hole to just to insert a wire.
It would be completely unnecessary.
Like Wayne, I have never used oil for cutting operations on any models.
Drilling a 5/16" hole into 1/4" thick mild steel… yes, use cutting oil. Drilling a 0.040" hole into alluminum… no oil is needed, and it could cause other problems.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
-Kevin
I have one of these that must be fifty-plus years old from when I use to scratch build R/C aircraft. I have some old dremels that fit it still as they seem plentiful to buy at train shows for $5.00 or less. It is great for drilling tiny holes.
Me too. The problem with a dremel as a drill press is the bit runout is absurdly wide.
A good modellers workbench vise to hold the C channel and some sort of handheld guide to get your pin vise vertical to the metal would provide a more feasible solution.
That is a very handy tool brent.
-Kevin
I think it was my Birthday present when I turned 10. It was a lot of money for my parents at that time but it has served me well. I see them often in the boxes under the tables at train shows for peanuts.