I’m about to start laying track on my HO layout (see link to my blog if you’re interested). One thing I can be sure of is that this layout won’t last forever, and I hope it won’t be my last layout. I’m purchasing some good quality track and turnouts (MEC code 83 flex with Walthers code 83 turnouts), so I want to be able to reuse them on future layouts. Ideally I would like to be able to reuse the cork roadbed as well, although I’m not as concerned about that. The subroadbed is plywood.
I suppose nailing the roadbed and track would allow easy removal, but I’m not sure I want to go that route. Seems like nails might allow for some unwanted play, plus the nailheads don’t look great on the ties.
I understand there are various adhesives people use for fastening down track and roadbed, but some of these are going to be permanent. Can anyone recommend a method that allows you to pull up the track and roadbed for future use? Thanks!
Well, I had an entire siding on the front of my layout I decided wasn’t working out so I pulled it up, turnout and all. Turnout and track got reused. Some of the roadbed was reusable - I use the Woodland Scenics foam, cork would have a higher reusability factor. My adhesive is cheap latex caulk, for both the track and roadbed.
I’m still working on a temporary 4X8 that will at some point be incorporated into my permanent around-the-wall layout as a peninsula. I used plywood, topped by 1" foam, then put the cork roadbed on top of the foam and then flextrack.
The foam is adhered to the plywood with latex caulk, as is the cork to the foam. The track is simply held fast with track spikes, pushed down through to the foam. I’m using all Atlas code 83 track and Peco switches.
After over a year, everything stays in place and I have no chronic track or derailment issues. I’m running some big, heavy steam (4-8-4, 2-10-2).
Also, I’ve been able to slip a wide putty knife under the cork and remove it intact. What surprised me is how well the track stays solid with just the spikes pushed into the foam.
On my permanent layout, I may caulk the track as an added measure, but so far I’m not really sure that will be necessary.
I keep seeing on the forum that latex caulk is the best for securing cork roadbed and track. I’ll be attaching cork to plywood and to foam, so I went looking for latex caulk at a hardwae store. Despite their having dozens and dozens of different kinds of caulks and adhesives, I couldn’t find any that said just “latex.” So I got a tube of one that said “latex caulk with silicone.” Is that going to make any difference? Will it be harder to remove if I have to? I plan to test it but if anyone knows I’d like to hear about it.
Good old fashioned white glue will be perfect for what you want. It is strong enough to hold the track in place but will allow you to separate it from the roadbed if you want to move it. The white glue can be scraped off the bottom of the ties. You can also use it to attach the roadbed to the plywood or foam although it might not come up quite as cleanly as the track. Small bits of roadbed will break away and be left on the surface but the roadbed should still be usable. You will likely need to temporarily tack the track down while the glue sets up but that won’t be a problem. You don’t need to drive the tacks all the way down. Halfway down should hold the track in place without damaging it.
The latex is fast and cheap, and I suppose the white glue is too, but I have never used it for securing the track. I have used nails at times, and if you weather the ballast between the ties, you will have to look very close to see the nail heads. In fact, setting the nail so deeply that it bows the tie downwards will be a bigger draw to the eye, IMO. I routinely paint each tie with at least three different shades/colours to make them look realistically aged and new as they have been replaced by road gangs. So, the nail head only shows up clearly on the lightest ones, but if you ballast and then weather it, it looks like a stray piece of ballast.
Latex caulk will be somewhat difficult to take up. It requires patience and determination. You will need a dull carving knife and use it in a teeter-totter motion, not too much sawing, with the sharp side of the blade pressed firm downward to keep it from making contact with the tie sides and tearing them off the rails. Then you have to scrape what you can off the bottoms of the ties. So, the idea all along is to use as little as will do the job of securing the tracks. Spread it very thinly in the first place, and use weights to keep the track in place while it dries. If you do it this way, the rest will be relatively easy.
I agree, which is why I like to use nails on the track and no adhesive. I just push them in with my finger until I start to get a sore finger, then I switch to a nail set to gently push the nail into place. I imagine there will be some situations where the nail may not be enough, but we’ll see.
And you’re right, pushing the nail down too deep distorts the rails and is a potential spot for derailments.
Thanks everyone for the replies. So far I’m hearing that latex caulk is both great for easy removal and not so good for removal! Hopefully some more folks will weigh in and provide some consensus.
I don’t have any problems at all taking up the rails with latex caulk. The key is to keep it very thin when you put it on. It doesn’t need much to hold the rails in place. I suppose if you put it on too thick it would be tough to get up. I use a putty knife to spread it very thin. I then have plenty of room for ballast too.
Yes, I believe the consensus that you should understand is that if you spread latex caulking so thinly that it still fixes the track in place, but does not ooze up in between the ties, or creep up on the tie ends to make them the caulk colour, you are going to have an easy time later on. As Philip says, more room for realistic ballast.
Thin is the key. The stuff I use dries clear but come sout of the tube white - well by the time I spread it it looks more like a shiny spot with alittle bit of whiteness to it - not because it’s already dried but because it is spread so thing. ANy pencil lines marking the roadbed position should be clearly visible through the caulk. Squishing up betwen the ties means you used WAY too much. Look at the 8x12 plan on my web site. All that track has roadbed beneath it. ALL of the track and roadbed was done with one tube of caulk - plus all the Tortoises were glued in their cutouts with caulk from the same tube. $1.19 glued my entire layout.