Need some help-I’m not into the bits and hexadecimal thing. My BLI Lt.Mikado is an excellent runner overall. What I’m trying to do is enhance its slow speed running from dead stop.What I want is a start from neutral that will allow a crawl speed for coupling/uncoupling. I’ve fiddled a bit with various CV’s to polish this performance and it’s improved somewhat but still not where I think it can be. I see that if I incorporate one of the speed table curves other than linear I may yield better “crawl”. So if I set CV25=68(for example) I then have to set bit 4 of CV29=1. Since I’m a bit at sea with “bits”(really a lot but couldn’t miss an opportunity for a pun), I don’t want to mess with CV29 and wind up with chaos. Can someone suggest an understandable link for the layman to go to that will make changes to CV29 less of a mystery? I’ve done some internet searching and yield so far still has me wary [sigh] as to tweaking CV29 without figuratively running the loco off the cliff.
When I upgraded to the new QSI chip, I fiddled around with the CVs on my BLI Mike to improve its low end response. And, like yourself, I was able to achieve this to a certain extent. However, I’m still not completely satisfied with the results.
Maybe the problem I have is that I compare them to my Trix Mike and my Stewart and Proto 2000 switchers, which absolutely crawl at speed step 001. I’ll be curious to see what kind of answers you get.
One big question is, which version of QSIs firmware do you have?
It may be in the (small) manual that came with the engine; if not, read out CV 56.255.1. If it’s 7.xx.yy, then you’re on version 7.
If you have Version 7, the first thing to do is turn on RTC (Regulated Throttle Control) by setting CV 56.4 to 1. That alone may do it!
If not, you may do better by setting CV 2 (Start Voltage), rather than messing with speed curves and/or tables. My Light Mikado came set to 32; I’ve installed the upgrade chip (Version 7) and set my CV 2 to 22, and it crawls just fine.
If your only problem is very low speed, that’s probably all you need.
For whatever software you have, you really should download the appropriate manual, either from BLI at http://broadway-limited.com/ click on “manuals” on the left;
Yes, they are mammoth (250+ pages), so you won’t want to print the whole thing, but they’re just chock full of good stuff!
On page 54 of the BLI Version 3 manual is a chart showing all the values, bits, and meanings for CV 29; the version 7 manuals from QSI have similar tables.
CV2 didn’t cut the mustard when I made several adjustments. [:(] I’ll try and determine version of firmware and I was thinking as next step to read the CV’s. Of course my CV reading may wind up being more like a seance. I’ll let get back re doing the “crawl”, hopefully the spirits will be receptive. [:D]
Does that decoder have a “kick” on transition from 0 speed? For my Athearn BB’s, I adjusted the start voltage so that the engine kept moving on speed step 1, and then turned on the kick feature (CV 65 maybe) to get it started.
Sorry to hear it. But just what do you mean by “… didn’t cut the mustard …”?
How long have you had this engine? Have you set many CVs yet? If not, you might want to do a Reset and see how that affects the loco. Sometimes, apparently, engines are tested at the factory (or your dealer’s) and not reset properly.
To do a full reset: Set CV 49 to 128; then CV 50 to 255; then CV 56 to 113. This will reset every CV to the factory default. Do this “on the main”, and after a short pause you’ll hear 3 whistle hoots as confirmation.
Is the problem jerky operation on rough track and/or turnouts? If so, RTC (Regulated Throttle Control) is about the only solution, unless of course you have something mechanical wrong. Did you lubricate this engine when you got it? If you’ve run it a lot, could it need it again? Is something on the valve gear hanging-up?
I’d guess you don’t have RTC unless you’ve installed the “QSI Upgrade Chip”. I don’t think BLI ships any units with RTC enabled. But the small manual that came with the engine should specify this.
Unfortunately, the values for CV 56.4 are different for the different firmware versions:
Version 6: 0 = standard; 1 (default) = Speed Control;
When I set CV 2 so that my Hudson begins to move at speed step 1 with the older chip, it will not begin to move at speed step one once I have hooked up to a train. I always have to “encourage it” with a setting of at least 10. Even then, I must wait for the decoder to feed it the juice it needs to get it to that associated to speed step 10. Then it takes off like a jack rabbit, as the older pre-BEMF chips were wont to do. BTW, I always program CV’s 3 and 4 with about 60% inertia/momentum, so that accounts for a chunk of the “spool-up” time.
My newly upgraded 2-10-4 and 4-6-2 move immediately upon assignment of any throttle setting, from 1-X. With the new feature of so many driver rotations while the cylinder cocks clear the condensate, this means that even if I dial in speeds of 50 mph, the loco will tend to dither and express the condensate before it begins a serious acceleration.
I did adjust my CV 2 values just to make sure that the locos were individually tuned, and not accept wholesale the factory default.
Sorry to hear it. But just what do you mean by “… didn’t cut the mustard …”?
How long have you had this engine? Have you set many CVs yet? If not, you might want to do a Reset and see how that affects the loco. Sometimes, apparently, engines are tested at the factory (or your dealer’s) and not reset properly.
To do a full reset: Set CV 49 to 128; then CV 50 to 255; then CV 56 to 113. This will reset every CV to the factory default. Do this “on the main”, and after a short pause you’ll hear 3 whistle hoots as confirmation.
Is the problem jerky operation on rough track and/or turnouts? If so, RTC (Regulated Throttle Control) is about the only solution, unless of course you have something mechanical wrong. Did you lubricate this engine when you got it? If you’ve run it a lot, could it need it again? Is something on the valve gear hanging-up?
I’d guess you don’t have RTC unless you’ve installed the “QSI Upgrade Chip”. I don’t think BLI ships any units with RTC enabled. But the small manual that came with the engine should specify this.
Unfortunately, the values for CV 56.4 are different for the different firmware versions:
Version 6: 0 = standard; 1 (default) = Speed Contro
Did quick browse of link; I think there’s gold in them thar pages!! [:)] Will take all these inputs and see what comes out the other end. Actually as of now some progress has been via CV tweaking. More tweaking will be taking place shortly. Tweaks to date have BLI little Mike just about on the high parameter for my subjective definition of “crawl”. I believe that by putting all the forum members suggestions together I’m going to get ever closer to an ideal “crawl”. [tup]
You still may want to consider getting the QSI Upgrade Chip – $29 at most DCC dealers, plus $5 or so for an extractor tool. They are very well worth the money, most users think. And not difficult to install – for your Mikado, all you have to do is remove the tender shell, ground yourself, extract the old chip, ground yourself again, install the new one, replace the shell.
I’ve got CV2 dialed in-did your approach of zeroing out CV’s 3 & 4 to make sure CV2 works at step 1. Exercise confirmed essentially the setting I already had set up. Always nice to have confirmation of a process so the exercise was beneficial. Got to pursue dialing in a “kick” of some kind to get what I want.
I’ll be reading some of the links provided and reviewing QSI manual. One thing I know I’ve got firmware(?) that was subject to the litigation by MTH. So no RTC and whatever the other feature was that was being contested by MTH at the time. With all the references and links I’m finding some interesting trivia-Did you know it was Mike Wolf who invented the Internet not Al Gore like we all thought! LOL [:-^]
Well anyway…the tweaking investigation goes on and I will be reporting back as to whether I made the golden shores of DCC Island where all CV’s are comprehensible and bits don’t bite.
You definitely need the upgrade chip to get real crawling action - the Back-emf is pretty much a requirement to get all the moving partsof a steam loco to truly run at a slow speed. There is a huge difference between my PCM T-1 with a Loksound decoder (EXCELLENT Back-EMF) and my father in law’s BLI M1a that does not have the upgrade chip. The T-1 starts at step 1 and will take over a half hour to circle my layout. I;ve gotten the M1 to start on step 1 by adjusting CV2, but the minum speed is noticeably higher than the T-1’s. The T-1 runs so slow that at speed step 1 it has a hard time coupling to a free-rolling car - the car will roll before the tension of the knuckle spring is overcome.
If you have the upgrade chip, definitely make sure RTC is turned on - otherwise it’s not really any different than the original chip as far as motor drive is concerned. Once that’s done, you can probably achieve what you want with CV2 adjustment. The best way to do this, if your DCC system supports it, is to use Ops Mode programming on the main. Set the speed to step 1, and then keep entering new values for CV2 untilt he loco begins to crawl. With the RTC on it should be possible to take several seconds per wheel rotation - creeping from tie to tie.
There seems to be a consensus building: get the update chip!
I did pickup prior to this thread that just the improvement in slow speed made the upgrade worth the purchase price. So, this thread has emphatically confirmed that capability is there in force let alone the other improvements. Of the other featured in the updates I think the functional air brake is another bravo(couldn’t figure why this wasn’t there from the get go what with brake feature being available “eons” ago in DC momentum). So I’ll try an order one today and get with the program.
Thanks to tstage,pondini,jim22,selector,tom bryant and rrinker for helping out. [bow][bow][bow] [tup]
Merry Christmas to you and yours,
Jon
P.S. May the overweight guy in the red suit be generous to your RR empires. [swg]