I need to bond (laminate) a piece of .040 styrene to a sheet of .064 aluminum. What is the best adhesive to use? Ideas I have had are Walthers Goo and Liquid Nails. Anyone got some other ideas?
RicZ
Super glue is an option.
This is a 4" x 10" piece. Might take a lot of CA.
RicZ
A contact adhesive might work. Otherwise, some type of epoxy would work as well. It really depends on how much strength you need.
Sounds like an ideal app for 3M #77 Spray Adhesive. Quick, easy, bonds great.
3M super weather strip adhesive. Stronger than walthers goo and available at any parts store.
Both Goo and Liquid Nails are solvent based and might make the styrene go all crinkly. I’d put some Goo on a test piece of styrene to see what happens. If Goo doesn’t crinkle your plastic it will work. Goo has enough stick, it sticks to anything and dries really tough. Liquid Nails is a construction adhesive made to stick to wood and plywood. Whether it sticks to metal or plastic I don’t know.
The usual choice for metal to plastic bonding is either Superglue (CA) or epoxy.
I use to use 8x10 sheets of double sided adhesive film, kind of like double face tape. I don’t know who makes it now but a art supply store might be one place to look. It works very well and with a large surface area it is tough to take apart.
-Bob
this would work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scor-Tape-Adhesive-8-5-x11-Sheets-3-pack-by-Scor-Pal-Double-sided-/130846857872?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e77149a90
This is what you want in the Liquid Nails family. Silicone based, no solvents to make the styrene all wrinkly. Goo will attack thin styrene, as will anything with solvents.
Either LePage’s or Weldbond Gelled Contact Cement will do the job permanently. The only drawback is that it comes only in quart or larger-size cans, but you may find other uses for it around the house. I used it to veneer kitchen cabinets, and it is permanent - still solid after 25 years. [swg]
Use a cheap 1" or 2" brush, and first prep one surface of the styrene with a coat of lacquer thinner - this prevents the solvent in the contact cement from being drawn into the plastic, which results in a weak bond. While that evaporates, use the same brush to apply the contact cement to the aluminum - cover it completely in as even a coat as possible, then do the same to the now mostly-dry styrene. Let both pieces sit for at least 20 minutes (skipping this step is why solvent-type contact cements wreck plastic, and it also weakens the bond).
If you need to align the two pieces for assembly, lay a piece of waxed paper over one - this will allow you to see what you’re doing, and will not stick to the contact cement. Line-up both edges at a corner, then slightly pull the waxed paper away from that corner and bring the two surfaces together. Now, slowly withdraw the waxed paper, and follow along with your other hand smoothing and pressing the top sheet down to eliminate air bubbles.
Wayne
I use,and with great results.a product called, ZAP-A-GAP,Medium CA+,a little bit goes a long way,will not have to be spread,one bead around near the outer edge,one half way to the center and then the center itself,put the pieces together,hold five seconds and you are done,the strongest CA,I have used with no regrets…0.5 oz,for around four dollars…
Cheers,
Frank
What’s the application? For scenery, which is static, almost anything will do because there’s not much stress on it. If there’s any flex, though, you want to avoid “hard” adhesives like CA / Superglue, because they form a hard but brittle bond that would crack and weaken if flexed.
The Medium CA+,I recommended,will flex,will only come apart,if tried to bend in half…
Cheers,
Frank
Karl, what about Liquid Nails for Projects. It is supposed to be solvent-free and will not attack foam?
RicZ
I just got through reading all about Liquid Nails products and it stated that,their Liquid Nails,Perfect glue,that’s the name given it,will be perfect for all the things you want to do,including,Foam…If you don’t believe it,Google,Liquid Nails and read for yourself…
Cheers,
Frank
My question about some of the products mentioned is how does one manage to get them spread thin enough such that a non-uniform lumpy mess doesn’t accumulate between the two surfaces to be bonded? I can see that the 3M spray product would not do this.
That all being said, the latest issue of MR (October) has an article where the author wanted to bond some sandpaper to styrene to represent a gravel roof. He used a product called Zoom Creative Products double-faced adhesive film. The way it was explained was that you remove the protective waxed paper from the adhesive film and apply to the first surface, and then remove the protective film from the second side and attach the other material. I’ve not used this product myself, so this is only a suggestion.
Maxman,
Check this product out, it is what I was referring to in my previous post on this thread. The least mess and neatest product to use.
-Bob
That product looks very similar to the Zoom Creative Products item mentioned in the MR article. The description of its use is also similar. Here is a link to the Zoom stuff: http://www.zoomcreativeproducts.com/SearchResults.aspx?Search=double+sided+adhesive
I remember this stuff from my drag racing days. We used to call the “yellow death”. You basically had to chisel the stuff off. I’m sure they have solvents to soften is, now.
What you want to do when gluing ANY dissimilar material is to scuff up both of the mating surfaces, to give them some “tooth”.
Many thanks,guys. A lot of good ideas.
RicZ