Bragdon's Weathering Powders

Hello

Where can I purchase Bragdon’s Weather Powders. I model in HO scale. Are there other

weathering powder products…I should consider using? THanks inadvance for your help.

Timothy

Here you go…

http://www.bragdonent.com/weather.htm

Easily found with google… a great tool!

Brian

You can also get it through caboosehobbies.com I think.

Great stuff. I use it mixed in artist oils alot.

Aggro-So THAT’S how you get those rust spots to look so real.[;)]

Bragdon’s is the way to go. One thing I’ve noticed lately, is that the semi-gloss type finish on the Atlas, P2K, and others including rolling stock will not allow the powders to really stick w/o almost burnishing them in. It does stay in cracks and crevases if the light weathered look is what you’re after though. The powders seem to work the best and have the best lasting ability when applied on dullcoat.

I’m an absolute novice at weathering, though I’ve been paying attention to Aggro, and I’ve also found that the Bragdon sticks best to something that has been Dullcoated. So far, I’ve only attempted it on some of my steamers, and a few freight cars (I don’t want to tell you what the cars turned out like, because I got carried away and you’d laugh), but as I get better (which I will, I WILL!!), I will continue to use the Bragdon powders. They really seem to work (at least my steamers look happy!)

Tom[:I]

Hi Tim,

I like and use Bragdon weathering powders also and as suggested by guys on this forum, I will first spray the model with Krylon’s Matee finish clear coat. I get it a Wal-Mart for around $1.50 for a large can and have found that it creates a great base for the weathering.

After I finish using the weathering powders, I don’t overspray…I just leave it as is. I tried spraying the matte finish over the powders but found that the model lost that dirty, dusty appearance. Of course, if you don’t “fix” the powders with an overspray, you’ve got to be careful to handle the models from underneath, lest you leave fingerprints on the surface.

By the way, if I’m weathering a car that is already built, I remove its trucks before spraying with the matte finish and I cover the couplers with a small piece of scotch tape wrapped around them, just to make sure I don’t get any spray on the couplers or springs. For a brand new kit that is unbuilt, I spray the matte finish on the body BEFORE I build the car. Then I build it and lastly add the weathering powders.

Here’s a couple of photos showing my results.

Hope this helps.

Mondo

I recently bought a set of his powders , directly from Bragdon. He delivered so quickly, I couldn’t believe it. Great product easy to use. Follow some of the advice above on usage.[:D]

The trick is to over weather with the powders as the fixative tones down the powders, sometimes you have to build it up in layers to get the effect you want.

Timothy,

[#ditto] We use them, and find Joel and his wife are great to deal with.

Sue

I tried what you’re suggesting…to "over weather with the powders since the fixative “tones down” the result but I didn’t like the appearance because the layers of fixative tended to make the model look “waxy”. Like I said, leaving the powders alone and not “fixing” them allows them to look dirty and dusty as they should.

Thanks,

Mondo