Brand new DCC equipped loco works for 5 minutes on a DC set up...then stops, dead + silent...

Hello Again,

I returned a brand new BLI N scale Alco PA - it would only move in one direction on my basic DC test circuit.

The replacement arrived 2 days ago - and worked for 5 minutes…Before the loco ‘died’ (no movement or sound), it took a lot of current for it to start up, then would move, sometimes smoothly, sometimes a bit stop/start.

I had a look on the internet - it seems in 2010 there were similar issues with BLI N scale locos, caused by poor current pick up, but no one described anything quite as bad as the performance I have experienced…

Perhaps these locos simply dont work on DC systems (which I double checked - works fine with other locos)?

Any advice appreciated.

Has anyone had similar experience with these BLI N scale DC/DCC sound equipped locos?

Although I expect my only course of action is to return the loco…converting to DCC is too costly for me at the moment.

You say it took a lot of current - you measured the amount of current it was drawing ? Might be worth it if you know someone who has a DCC system to try it and see if it works ok. That would verify if it might be the decoder itself or a mechanical issue.

What are you using for a DC power supply ?

Mark.

Thanks. Good suggestion. Using a basic Gaugemaster 12V controller.

TrainMan,

Are You using the Gaugemaster throttle to power anything else? After looking at all the Gaugemaster system’s…it’s quite possible that it does not have enough power to handle a dual mode engine decoder. That’s one reason why it takes so much to make it move.

Worth looking into.

Good Luck! [:D]

Frank

Well, if by “a lot of current” he means having to crank the throttle open, that’s normal for a sound loco on DC, so that it can sit still and run the startup sound sequence and then idle, otherwise the loco would be moving at a pretty good clip before the sounds even started. Happens with all sound locos running on DC, can’t do much about it.

Now, other Gaugemaster products are made by MRC - are the DC power packs as well? If so, they probably have various forms of pulse power which no doubt confuses the heck out of the decoder. The newer MRC DC packs claim to be using PWM control, which conveniently looks like bad DCC packets on the rails. Great for controlling a DC motor, but probbaly not the best for controlling a dual mode loco.

–Randy

Randy,

As a side note. I have Allied Elect. DC Volt analog meters on my control panels that are hooked up to the meter terminals on my MRC CM 20’s, assuming that the meter’s are accurate, which I believe they are…the BLI DC/DCC with sound engines I have sound comes on at 3volts, engine moves at 4volts. All six do that. I have a MRC Tech II 1500 at my work bench with the same meter that I built an add on enclosure for that sits on top of the MRC unit with those nylon loop and stitch fasteners, ( I forget what the heck they are called) any way on a test track those same engines, the sound don’t even come on until the volt meter reads 8volts, move at over half throttle.

Total VA on the 1500 is 12va, verse’s 100va on the CM 20’s. I’m sure that makes a big difference on a dual mode decoder, especially with a basic power pack.

Take Care! [:D]

Frank

Frank, thanks. Yes, I think my DC system doesn’t have enough power. BLI should perhaps be clearer about what DC compatible means. Cheers

For the price you paid for that BLI loco, you could have bought a nice DCC system, and some decoders.

…just sayin

TrainMan,

Maybe You have to turn it up-side down…to read that part…Naw, just kidding, could not resist.

Running pun with ‘‘JaBear’’ and I from New Zealand.

Take Care! [D]

Frank

Yes…that did occur to me…!

Maybe we’re reading different information on “DC Compatible” from BLI then … it seems pretty clear to me.

(emphasis added)

full FAQ Page here

edit – oh, and another thing that I just thought of – are these NIB from BLI, or did you get them second-hand? If the latter, maybe the former owner turned off the DC-mode operation?

Yes, clear to me too. The loco works with DC…for 5 minutes…: /…

Yes, NIB…2nd NIB loco with same issue…

After the first 5 minutes, has it ever moved again?

Rich

Which Model is it?

Rich

I’m not familiar with that particular locomotive, but unless the sound portion of the DCC equipment is important to you, I’d remove it completely. The loco will run much better on DC when it’s thus converted: lower starting current, better throttle response and speed range and less sensitivity to dirty track, too.

Wayne

Voltage is voltage, regardless of the source. If it takes 8 volts to run the electronics, it takes 8 volts to run the electronics. What you are seeing is the difference in the way the two systems suppy pulse power, which your meter is not showing. Back when I belonged to a different club, I helped one of the other memebers install a constant lighting circuit in one of his locos, one that used the pulse power to provide the power rather than drop the voltage to the motor with diodes. We had two different walkaround systems on each of the two mains - one was the big MRC one, the other was a CMI Hogger or whatever that one was called. Putting his loco on the track powered by the one, the lights worked great. Put it on the other - you had to turn up the throttle before the lights worked, enough to move the loco. So it’s not lack of power, certainly not for an N scale loco, and not even for a single HO scale sound loco. A Tech II 1500 has plenty of power to r

Randy,

Why is it then, the MRC 1500 will only run two BB engines at the same time…if they both only require 12 volts? If the 1500 had a higher amperage output it wouldn’t be a problem and that’s only powering the engines, nothing else. The OP’s throttle may be shutting down because it can’t handle the power requirements of the dual mode decoder. We don’t know for sure, what’s happening.

I had those constant lighting circuits of old in some BB’s and took them out for better performance. Added LED’s years later…but would rather have the incandesants cause I think they look better, my opinion any way.

Take Care! [:D]

Frank

BLI advertises these locos as operable in both DC and DCC - - - and with sound. So, you have to assume that the locos will operate as advertised, without removing the sound portion.

My guess is that the power pack is supplying inadequate voltage, especially if it is the basic power pack.

Here is what BLI says about running the N scale diesel on DC.

Your Paragon 2 diesel locomotive is ready-to-run. Simply place the locomotive on a track powered by any DC power pack with a variable output up to 16 volts DC. As you increase the track voltage, the sound system will begin functioning at around 7 volts DC.

Just a thought.

Rich

I’m not saying the 1500 is a super powerful power pack, but it IS plenty enough to run ONE sound loco. Only two BB locos? Are they the older ones with the black motors? Because the gold ones, at least once tunes, you should be able to run 3-4 of them on a 1500. The power draw (less the electronics) of that new sound loco are WAY less than one BB loco. And the electronics don’t draw THAT much. Now, if they slow down at the far reaches of the layout - that means more feeders are needed. Even DC needs more than just the rail joiners and more than one feeder, even for a trivial 4x8 loop (at least, one made with sectional track).

ANd if a 1500 is shutting down trying to run ONE N scale loco - something is broken, for sure. When I first bought mine it was for N scale, as I was in N scale at the time. Had no problem running anything I could put on, which was mostly Bachmann. Mid 70’s vintage stuff, not nice new smooth running N scale, which is what eventually drove me back to HO. Last use of that 1500 was running a switchign layout I had with a couple of BB locos, though I did the full motor tuneup AND put Ernst gears in them for better slow speed. Later donated the whole thing to the same club when I moved, where it finally got scenery and was used as a remote attention getter - as in, set up a table at a nearby show and use the little layout as a showoff piece and then directed people to the actual club building to see the full sizze layout.

–Randy