I’m newly (less than a year) back in the hobby. As mentioned elsewhere, I have 2 BLI Paragon 4 steamers at BLI for troubleshooting. I’ve converted my QSI steamers to ESU LokSound. I’m considering doing that to my P3&4 steamers.
Going forward with new acquisitions, beside smoke (which the grandkids love), what do I lose going “Stealth” and installing LokSound decoders in them?
And, if I convert, what’s the best solution: use ESU’s conversion board, or cut it all out?
While I really like Loksound, the last time I checked they were still pretty limited on US steam sound files. You might want to consider either TCS WOWSteam (my choice) or Soundtraxx Tsunami for steam decoder installs. Either brand has a large assortment of individual sound files (whistles, bells, chuffs, etc) that you can choose to accurately represent your prototype locomotive.
To answer your question: If you are doing your own decoder installs, I don’t think you lose anything other than smoke, which I’m not a big fan of anyhow. Paragon decoders (2 and newer) have been problematic for me. I’d rather do my own install. It also allows me to choose my own speaker/speakers. And I would wholeheartedly recommend Scale Sound Systems for those.
My understanding is the conversion kit is just to convert older “hard wire” installations of the old QSI decoders, which BLI hasn’t used for some years.
Stealth engines are “DCC Ready”. They come set as DC engines, but have a 21-pin DCC receptacle and a speaker already connected and in place. So you would just plug in whatever sound decoder you want to use. Other manufacturers are starting to do that now too.
Personally, I’ve come to like the Soundtraxx Economi decoders. They have most of the features of the Tsunami, but only about 2/3rds the price.
I’ve already been down the decoder standard road. With some guidance from JT at Scale Sound Systems, I went through the options, talked to some manufacturers, and chose ESU LokSound. There is a huge selection of sound files ( I only model in steam), and with a LokProgrammer, programming is reasonably easy. I’m retired after building my own company for 25 years ( where I had no time for model railroads), and fortunately price isn’t too much of an issue. I buy all of my DCC materials from JT at Scale Sound Systems.
The ESU BLI converter board is ONLY for P3&4. Some folks have reported issues using the boards. Anyone here have any experiences? My other option is to cut out the BLI board in the tender and put a new LokSound in from scratch.
I’ve read the BLI Stealth info before. It says some functionality and some lighting options might be lost. Anyone know what they are?
I know there are some threads on the forum about people trying to use a non-ESU decoder in a Scale Trains or Rapido engine - both companies say there could be some problems getting all the lights to work, as their engines are designed to work with ESU decoders. I don’t recall seeing anything posted about using ESU decoders with BLI Stealth engines, but might have missed it if there is.
Of course if you’re only looking at BLI steam, it may not be that big an issue, as a steam engine doesn’t have ditch lights and such like a diesel. You could just try putting a 21-pin LokSound decoder in and see how it works. You might need to re-map a few function buttons but otherwise it might work fine. If it doesn’t you could always do as you suggest and rip the board out and replace it - maybe with a Decoder Buddy.
BTW I do like ESU a lot, and do have a LokProgrammer. Due to the higher price, I do try to use the Economis when I can. Then I can use the ESU decoder for some less common sound files (like FM or Baldwin engines).
Maybe just me, but if I bought an engine with a pre-installed speaker, I would try it out before putting in a new one. A different speaker might create a better sound, or might not. Sometimes properly adjusting the graphic equalizer (or treble and bass controls for ESU) makes a huge difference in the sound, but I wonder if everyone is aware of it.
If I’m spending $3-500 on a steam locomotive (all in), I’m spending $34 for 2 speaker systems from Scale Sound Systems. I usually put one round speaker facing down in the tender, and a rectangular speaker in the front of the tender facing forward.