I am modeling a free- lanced switching railroad that will not require much in the way of road markings. I have two questions:
can I use dry transfers for these markings (lettering and numbers) instead of decals and;
how do you get the dry transfers on straight?
Thanks.
T. H.
My experience has been with applying wet decals to steam locomotives and freight cars, which can be a bit difficult until you gain a bit of experience e.g. problems with spacing, horizontal alignment, poor bonding, shakey hands etc. A fellow club member uses dry transfers to letter his locomotives and cars with very good looking results. He says that dry transfers are easier to apply and produce neater looking results. Either way the key to getting the letters and numbers horizontally level is to stick a low-tack tape e.g. painters masking tape along the intended bottom line of the lettering, locating the numbers/letters sitting on the edge of the tape. Whether wet decals or dry transfers, patience and care is needed in applying the letters/numbers, being prepared to rework any letters or spacing that doesn’t look right to the eye.
I’ve used dry transfers on both structures and locos. Masking tape is the best way to get a straight line. On structures I stretch it down a row of bricks to make sure it is level. On a loco, I’ll try to find two points at the same level such as matching rivets to set the tape. When I line up the letters on the tape, I keep the whole row of letters right at the top of the tape to make sure they don’t go on slanted. I start from the middle and work my way out so the lettering is centered. Some letters (like W) are much wider than others (like I), so you might have to make some adjustments to your center point. I usually do the spacing by eye after estimating how much space there should be between each letter and still fit within the alloted space. This usually works out fairly well.
Its a mater of patience, practice and skill.
Water decals are more forgiving, because they allow some repositioning before they set. They also work better over ribs or fitting into tight places such as on a single sheathed wood box car. Decal solvent can be used to make them fit contours.
If the dry transfer is positioned wrong all you can do is remove it and start over. One of their big advantages is they don’t have large areas of decal film to try to hide.
With practice excellent results can be obtained with either type.
Thanks. guys for thje help; I was wondering, is there a way to arrange the numbers/letters on a piece of tape and then just rub them on in position whiile on the tape? that way the intended markings could be correctly positioned before rubbing them onto the loco or piece of rolling stock. Also, how do you erase the “mistakes”?
I do feel better, knowing that the dry transfers are a common practice on motive power and rolling stock. Some of these markings will be decals (a modification of decals from a class 1 railroad) but the road name and probably the numbering will be different, therefore having to use dry transfers from a generic set. This gives the “company” fleet the appearance of having acquired their equipment second-hand from a class 1 road, while not having done much to really alter the original paint scheme.
Thanks for your help!
T. H.
Trying to pre-arrange the letters and numbers on a piece of tape seems to me to be an extremely difficult task because the tape would have to be on the top, which means you’d have to arrange them with the tape and transfers upside down. Depending on the type of tape, once a transfer touches it, it would be practically impossible to move without damage.
If you do want to try using dry transfers, be sure you get ones that are not old and dried out. The newer and fresher the better, because as they age they dry out, become very brittle, and lose their adhesion.
Ive certainly used a fair few of both types over the years on locos and freight stock. As above, patience and practise are the key but i generaly find water slide the easier of the two. Fine adjustments are possible with these whereas dry print, once its on, its on and any adjustment results in a torn transfer. The selotape then comes out to remove it and start over.
Make sure the surface is very clean and totaly free of finger grease or it wont stick, as soon as its dry it’l blow away. Ive aslo air brushed the area to recieve the decals with gloss varnish first, this makes the decal adhere better to the surface. Once its applied i then apply matt or satt varnish on top to match the rest of the body and to hide the earlier gloss and backing film of the decal (if water slide type)
If you use water slide, you will see the backing film on top of the decal if you apply to a matt surface, not good!
Theres a brand over here that you can actualy peel away the backing film so leaving just the decal in position, rather like dry print. Thats a skill in its self without pulling off the decal aswell!