I’m building the Walthers Pier terminal building. The kit came with solid plastic windows on sprue’s ( not the acetate film ). Can I cement these windows in with ProWeld? I have heard ProWeld would fog an acetate film, but would it fog up the solid plastic window? My thought was to hold the window in place and run the ProWeld brush along the sides on each window, having it wick under like it does while cementing building walls.
I only have the ProWeld, thin and thick super glue and Elmers white glue, on hand. I do not have a hobby store within 30 miles to buy anything else and do not want to wait on something to come in the mail, so I want to make do with what I have on hand. I would guess the white glue would work, but take a little time to set up, if needed.
A lot of guys swear by Canopy glue which I have never used. It supposedly won’t run or fog, and it dries clear.
I use Testors Liquid Cement for Plastics in the black bottle with the needle applicator which is excellent for this purpose. No running, and no fogging, if correctly applied.
It seems to me that ProWeld will run, and it will fog that clear plastic “glass”.
My favorite “welding” cement for styrene is the Tenax 7R which is a similar formula to the ProWeld. The main ingredient being MEK.
I think the Pro Weld will work just fine. I might suggest using a longer handled brush than the bottle brush and be sure the clear styrene fits flush against the back of the mullion so lightly sand the mating face of the mullions. If there’s the slightest gap then too much cement gets drawn in and you have a mess.
Try doing a few windows in the least conspicuous part of the building and see if it works OK for you before doing all of them.
To me, the ProWeld is “hotter” followed by the Tenax and then the Testors. There’s times when I want the slower action of the Testors that Rich uses but if you don’t have any on hand I guess that rules out that option.
Canopy glue is fine for small “glass” or headlight lenses, critical areas but for me, it sets far too slowly for a “production” job like a large structure.
Of course, be sure to keep your fingers away so you don’t allow the glue to track around them and carefully apply the cement and allow the capillary action to draw it around the perimiter of the glass.
If you’re concerned about the glue running, I’d try using Tacky Glue. I’m pretty sure it’s similar to Canopy Glue, but much easier to find. If you make a mistake you can wipe it off and start over. Also, unlike Elmer’s it dries flexible and not brittle. You can find it in just about any craft store, Walmart or any other store that carries art or craft supplies. Weldbond is similar but more often sold in hardwares or home supply stores. Those glues might be easier to find.
I’m also a fan of canopy glue for windows. It goes on white but dries completely clear. It’s an adhesive, not a glue, actually, so after it’s set for a few hours you can use a toothpick to clean off any drips or spots.
That building has a lot of multi-paned windows. Another thing you can do with canopy glue is fill the window panes with just the glue and let it harden. This will give you clear windows, but the glue won’t dry flat but rather with some curvature, so you can’t focus through the windows. This is great for structures that you want to illuminate from the inside but not bother building an interior.
Aileen’s Tacky Glue, available at craft stores, will do a pretty good job, too, and you’ll find other uses for it. Take some time to browse. If you go to Michaels or A.C. Moore, take the time to go online and print a coupon. They’ve always got one for 40% (or sometimes 50%) off on one item. That’s not much of a saving on glue, but it’s my go-to place for more expensive stuff like plaster cloth, Envirotex and even Woodland Scenics trees.
I use MicroMark’s SameStuff which I believe is their knock off of ProWeld. I’ve assembled many plastic Walthers kits and It does a good job of welding the clear plastic to the window frames. It even flows into where the mullions are without running onto the surface of the glass. I use a technique much like you describe and you can see the adhesive flow between the clear plastic and the frame it is being attached to and it sets up in seconds. You do have to be carefully not to touch the adhesive directly to the clear surface or you will get some fogging. I’ve done that as well although it is not terribly noticeable. I glue the plastic to the window frames before installing them into the walls. That way if I do make a goof with one or two of them and the windows are the same size all the way around I can put the bad windows on the side of the the structure that will be least noticeable. Some of Walthers newer kits are really nice in that the clear plastic snaps into place and gluing them is optional. It’s a great idea that I wish somebody would have thought of a long time ago.
The walls have not been cemented together yet, so I can still lay the walls flat to cement in the windows ( so no worries about drips ). I brushed some of the ProWeld on to part of the clear sprue ( lastnight ) and today it is still clear. Since none of you seem to think it will cause a fog problem, I will give it a try. Thanx guys for your help.
BTW: These windows just lay flat on the window frame, their not recessed in to the frame.
I do scale cars and planes along with MRR stuff. Best/cheapest Ive found is Elmers white glue that might have been thinned with water somewhat, microscale stuff is #2 on my use if only because its more expensive. Unless you want frosted windows like in a bathroom avoid super glues.
I use either Woodland Scenics Accent Glue or Micro Mark PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) to install ALL of my glazing. Simply apply a thin coating of either brand glue to the back side of the window frame and let it dry. Once the glue is dry (both dry clear), just position the glazing piece over the window frame and press into place. Because the glue is dry, it will not ooze into view or smear the glazing. Best of all, if you miss the correct glazing position, simply lift off the glazing piece and try again. A very forgiving way to install glazing before or after assembly!