Was scanning thru a Proto 48 site and came across the use of these agents for applying to handrails so paint will better stick. As some of you know, I’m replacing my Williams rails w/wire ones. Anyone know where to get it and how it is applied?
Out of curiosity, if the agent is applied to brass or copper, will it still conduct electricity?
Thanks
From the sounds of it, there is a blackening agent for metals. I was going to blacken some die cast metal couplers with gun blue, but I read the bottle before I bought it. It said it will blacken steel but not metal. I used a black Sharpie instead. It looks fine.
Jim
Dave,
It has been many years since I handled any of this stuff, but make sure you get the right stuff for each metal. Some agents etch the surface if used on the wrong metal. I also recall some agents are not conductive. So check carefully.
Regards,
Roy
I believe that the older M16A-1 rifles were gun-blued (the ones made by Mattel toy company 
Roy, for the handrail application, I’m not concerned about conductivity; just a general type question, I can find out anyway w/my ohm meter.
Very difficult painting metal handrails so wanted to try the blackening method as a primer, per the proto-48 website.
Jim,
I’ll try & search for “Sharpie”
Careful when using them, most are acid based, especially the gun bluing and browning ones. The ones for guns are basicly “rusting” the metal and are intended for high iron metals. The newer flat blackening agents are coatings that are, I think, heat applied.
With brass, or tin, an acid based agent could have a chemical reation eating up the metal since copper and tin are a lot more ractive.
I’ve used the blackening agent which I got from Olson’s. didn’t work real well. No damage, just made metal a little grayer, very little. Primarily used in on postwar Lionel steamers to try to hide paint chips.
I’m with Jim, Shapies work best for turning VG’s into E’s. and if you want to sell the piece, just clean it off.
Tim
I have used and would recommend Neolube. It will not “etch” metal and can be removed or lightened using alcohol. Check it out here:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83181
Thanks, Jon,
The pictures of their work look nice as well.
David, What I did was apply it like the pictures show, then I worked the side rods with a Q-tip of alcohol. This left it a little darker around the bearings and shinier down the rods. I’ll see if I can take a pix of my Consolidation I did and post it this afternoon. Jon
Birchwood casey makes black or oxidises. there is one type for brass and one for steel. The metal has to be like it was fresh cut for it to work right. It would be easier for you to paint the handrails.
Dave.
Every time I have had the occasion to blacken something, I have polished it before hand with my dremel tool on moderate speed using an emory(gray) polishing wheel. It removes rust, paint, plating, and pretty much anything else in the way and leaves behind a shiny, almost mirror-like surface. It’s next to impossible to get the shine to be even, so it doesn’t look very good when done by itself, but it will look fine when the blue is applied over it.
If you do use the blue, keep in mind that it needs to be wiped off within a few minutes or it will cause rust. Also, always be sure to buff it with steel to get a good shine. Don’t be afraid to re-apply if you don’t get it dark enough, but be sure to use the steel wool in between applications.
Also the bottles I have say to apply a dap of oil after treatment. This will stop any rusting that can occur later on. Also makes the finish get blacker.
I had a diecast engine that I wanted to blacken the frame so it would not scratch so easy so I used their acid cleaner and then distilled warm water to rinse it off.
Put on the steel blackner and it set up good but it was green in tint. Rubbed the finish with some light oil and it turned black. Wierd stuff.
Dave.
rusting? It adds weathering, desired!