A recent thread started by gdelmoro regarding his short circuit problems prompts me to take a survey on circuit breakers. What circuit breaker(s) do you use and why? And did you switch over from another model?
I use two PSX1’s on mine for no good reason at all than I read a quick review several years ago that they were the best on the market, so I cannot claim to compare them to anything else. I also have not had a short on my layout beyond the ones that I induced to make sure the wiring was ok, so I cant say if they work under real life conditions. Obviously, I assume they will if and when the time comes.
I would like to point out that this is NOT intended to be an opportunity to rant about Manufacturer A or B or C or whatever. That can be done on another thread.
So, have at it.
I own several PSX units as well. Occasional derailments cause shorts on my layout, and the pertinent PSX shuts down only that power district causing the short. The PSX is an excellent and reliable unit.
One thing that I like about the PSX units is that the input side has 4 ports instead of just two ports. So, you can daisy chain from one unit to another.
gdelmoro has NCE EB1 circuit breakers on his layout. I don’t have any personal experience with them.
Rich
Well … as you know I only have experience with the NCE EB1 and I’m about to find out if NCE will stand by them.
If not, I just saw an excellent video on the NMRA website about the PSX. the video was done by the designer who weas very informative AND he stated that if one ever goes bad (even out of warrantee) they will replace it.
If you’re an NMRA member search for the below
Presented by Larry Maier
2009 National Convention - Hartford, CT
“Unique Features and Use of DCC Specialties Products” – Larry Maier (58:53)
I used a Digitrax PM42 on my last layout, but I have a Digitrax system. Never had any problems with it, even deliberately loading multiple sound locos in one section, it still recovered just fine. I have no external keep-alives on any of mine, and I guess ESU decoders don;t have the inrush issues of QSI or others, although I do have one QSI and people have claimed their PM42 won’t reset with even one sound decoder - I think they’re doing it wrong.
Not really suitable for non-Digitrax systems as you need a Digitrax throttle to adjust the settings. Or a standalone Loconet and JMRI.
–Randy
I decided on a NCE Powerhouse Pro 5A system, and consulted with Tony’s Trains, which I recommend (again). I note my DCC system, as with that I was ok with the OG-CB and OG-AR (reverser) breakers for my sub-districts. I wanted non-relay types and Tony’s suggested they would fit my bill. I don’t think they are adjustable, and they do not work with some systems, including PowerCab and Zephyr, I’m guessing because their trip setting (4A) is too high and the booster would trip first(?).
They are less expensive ($25, $32, respectively) but that was not the key criterion. They do have circuit board connections for extended LED indicators. They might be worth consideration in some cases, but I would check with Tony’s.
I note from previous threads that adjustability can be critical with some combinations, as the subdistrict breaker needs to trip before the main (booster) breaker. But not an issue in my case. Always work fine.
Consulting with Tony’s Trains is a very smart thing to do.
LION uses 3AMP Automobile fuses. Him has five circuits for different uses.
If fuse blows, him not put in another fuse, instead him connects the big 12 v. truck taillight and uses the lamp filiments as if they were the fuse.
If the lamp lights up the short is still present. Go find the short. Whe the short is eliminated the light will go out and the train will start running. The train will not draw enough current to allow the lamp to glow.
Once all is working, LION disconects the lamp and installs a gnu fuse.
ROAR
(Do NOT mistake fuses with fusees, they are very different in the railroad world)
LION, Him the frugal railroader
My stupid question of the day: Why does the lamp only light in the presence of a short?
Henry, check with Allan Gartner’s website. He explains it. I cant.
I have a bunch of PSX components (two PSX-AR, two PSX4, two PSX3, one PSX2) and they all seem to work fine. They are fairly flexible/configurable. I chose them because they got good reviews and Tony’s Trains recommended them when I started construction on my layout.
All those components, Onewolf? Your layout must be massive.
I did and it didn’t sink in.
He says it has low resistance so it doesn’t light. If I take that same bulb and connect it to a battery it lights, doesn’t it? What’s different about DCC?
I do have a PSX1 because I plan on having additonal power districts. They do fail by the way because the MR staff replace one on the MRVP Rehab my Railroad.
I have eight of the original “Power Shield” breakers (before they added the X in the designation). They have been soldiering along for at least twenty-years. I bought them from Lloy’s Toys if that’s any indication of their age. Never switched from anything else. These have performed flawlessly.
I added LED remote indicators plus a cut-out switch.
I also have three of the DCC Specialties AR auto reversers and one Digitrax AR-1 reverser.
Cheers! Ed
Henry
If you use a automotive 12 volt 12 watt light bulb it will need around 1 amp of current to light bright. A locomotive that pulls say 200ma or 0.2amps through the light bulb will not cause it to light. So you can trouble shoot or even protect a district from excessive current draw with a lamp in series with the track and the power source.
I’ve got a PSX-4, which is 4 PSX breaker systems mounted together on one large board. It’s always performed well for me. I also have 2 old PS-REV auto-reversers, which have been in service for many years and also function well.
My layout is a simple loop-to-loop. Wrapped up in a three level mushroom design. See sig link. [;)]
First, you have to know what a short circuit is. That’s then the power goes out, and comes back without going through a reasonable load. A pair of pliers across the track is not a reasonable load. A working loco motor IS a reasonable load.
So, if you leave the plierson the tracks, and the fuse blows, now the circuit is open. It’s exactly the same as removing a short chunmk of the wire. If you replace that wire with a light bulb, now you have a circuit again - out to the track, through the pliers, back through the light bulb. The same as connecting a light bulb to the power supply. So the light lights up. Take the pliers off the rails, now there is no current flow because there is a break in the circuit and the light goes out. Like opening a switch, or taking a chunk of wire out of the circuit.
Now keep the light bulb in place, don’t repalce the fuse. The loco draws say 1/2 amp. Kirchoff’s Laws say all loads in series have the sme current flowing through them. So if 1/2 amp is flowing throught he loco, 1/2 amp is flowing through the lamp. Except the lamp needs something more, like 2.5 amps to light up. So it doesn’t light up. The lamp has a very low resistence, so it doesn’t drop much of the voltage, and the train runs normally. But if the loco derails and wedges across the rails, and say the right side wheels touch both rails - now we have a short circuit. We’re back to your basic power supply, wire, and light bulb circuit. The light bulb turns on. It draws 2.5 amps. Kirchoff again, that means no more than 2.5 amps can flow through the short circuit.
And that’s why I think light bulbs as circuit protection is a bad idea. Typical HO DCC voltage is 15 vold. At 2.5 amps, that’s 37.5 watts. (15V x 2.5A). 37.5 watts is a pretty decent amount of heat. Enough to melt plastic, for sure.
A REAL circuit breaker actually turns the power off completely. Unless you enable the manual reset option most of them have, it will periodically tr
Randy, I have been leery about the light bulb method ever since I did my research on circuit breakers for my layout, and I do not claim to be an ace electrician. As for Kirchoff’s Law, I’ll take your word on it.
in series was the part I was missing. Thanks everyone